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Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Skegby
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Dragore wrote:
mdpslm wrote:
Hi Dragore,
I am going to be doing a couple of the items you did pretty soon: split inter cooler hose replacement and the glow plugs - they were last replaced 4 years ago but at the back end of last winter it was starting to need multiple cranks to fire up with new battery fitted - we've not had a deep frost yet but I know we will soon Smile

I was interested to know more about were you wrote:

"the bit I am super proud of Changed all the glow plugs WITHOUT having to remove the whole intake manifold"

Any tips or guidance on how you manged this would be much appreciated if it helps me and others in the future to save on time, skin and swearing!

Hi sorry its taken me awhile to reply Ive been really busy in work.

First on the agenda was to remove the engine cover and the full fan assembly to give myself room to work, this was actually fairly easy as long as your uber careful not to catch the radiator with the bottom of the fan assembly. There are just 4 plastic clips holding the fan assembly in and a few electrical connectors on the top right side.

I started slowly and began from the left hand side of the engine, after removing the engine covers I firstly removed the fuel filter assembly including carrier making sure I plugged the ends of the fuel pipes with a new clean bolt (sorry can't remember the exact size) to help reduce the need for bleeding the system. I also kept the filter flat and level during removal meaning that the filter stayed full with fuel.

With all this removed I had access to the first 2 plugs that are below the intake manifold, I gently unclipped the electric connector using only 2 finger tips due to the space however if I can get my sausage fingers in without too much trouble others should be fine Very Happy I took a deep reach socket connected to a long extension and released the plug, this wasn't that tight which is good as I was really concerned about snapping anything but caution allowed no catastrophic end of days things happening.

I then did the last plug on the right hand side so moved some ancillary cables to get to that.

This left the last little git of a plug that sits behind the EGR valve assembly, I removed the metal EGR pipe that runs over the top of the engine from the valve and the 1 fixation bolt on the top right of the engine but just left it in situe as the other connection is an absolute nightmare to reach. I already had the intake pipe off the bottom of the valve so removed the 4 retaining screws and moved the EGR (I at this point cleaned the valve out using brake cleaner as it was all gunked up). With this moved I have access to the 3rd plug and with some difficulty managed to complete the change.

As for the intake pipes I loosened the front bumper and pulled it forward as seen in my picture, this allowed me access to the jubilee clip screw for the connection to the intercooler from the top left where the bumper normally sits with the car, without this access to that clip is almost impossible from below or above.

I worked from below after removing the undertray and worked the bottom pipe out with the hard piping, I attached the little pipe to the top of the hard plastic piping before reintroducing it back to the car. My piping was a really tight fit so it took a few ins and outs to work out the correct angle for the new piping but got it eventually. I then went from the top to reconnect the new short pipe to the bottom of the EGR.

After reassembly I started her up and she didn't even cough so I didn't loose a great deal of fuel which was great!

Hope this helps and I'm sorry if this is a little unfollowable as I'm much better at showing Smile

By EGR, are you sure you don't mean Throttle Body? Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)
Stornoway Grey with Almond leather interior.
Evoque '506' 18" wheels with Pirelli Scorpion Verde tyres.
Colour coded Door Handles and side trim.

Post #381860 27th Nov 2019 9:04 pm
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