I am guessing the easy answer is change the thermostat, ie get someone to do it as I can't manage it.

Been like this about a year and a half, I only noticed it happen when I had the original grille cut out and replaced with the HST grille, so when I originally noticed the drop in gauge reading, I assumed perhaps the different shaped grille was allowing more cooling to the engine as the holes seem bigger (logical or mad ??)

Never had any change in MPG, always clocks in at about 33 or 34 .

I recall in olden days some people in winter would block the grille to stop all the cold air getting in, maybe with a piece of cardboard, if that's safe to do, it could test my theory out,

Any 'clean' ideas welcome . . . .

or is it still pretty much a thermostat job? Just to add, the gauge either shows a third or half depending where I am, probably open road is when it drops, adding weight to my theory ?

( I do not have the intelligence or know how or equipment to test temperatures etc etc, just a simple man not a rocket scientist like some of you)  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

There is an explanation of how the temperature gauge works at the bottom of the first page of this thread - https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19314.ht...nt+cluster

This might suggest that a lower than normal reading could mean a faulty gauge as it doesn’t operate in a linear fashion but simply acts like a warning light, i.e. it’s either OK or not.

I agree with Simon. It's nothing to do with the change of grill. It's either the gauge or the thermostat.

Ok, thank you to both of you. 2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Engine Temperature Gauge
The engine temperature gauge is located in the center of the instrument cluster and is driven by medium speed CAN bus messages from the CJB. The CJB receives an Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) signal from the ECM over the high speed CAN bus when the vehicle enters power mode 6 (ignition on). The needle pointer position translates to the following approximate temperatures.
Engine Coolant Temperature °C (°F)-----------------Pointer Position
Petrol---------Diesel
Ignition off----Ignition off -----------------------------Park
40 (104)------40 (104)--------------------------------Cold (blue segment)
75 (167)------75 (167)--------------------------------Beginning of normal
119 (246)-----113 (235)------------------------------End of normal
125 (257)-----118 (244)------------------------------Beginning of hot (red segment)
130 (266)-----123 (253)------------------------------End of hot
If the ECT signal rises above 118 °C (244 °F) on diesel vehicles, or 127 °C (260 °F) on petrol vehicles, the instrument cluster will illuminate the high ECT warning indicator. If the instrument cluster fails to receive an ECT signal from the CJB, the engine coolant temperature gauge will move to the 'end of hot' position and the warning indicator will be illuminated.

From Manual (sorry about formatting, but website takes out spaces, hence the dashes) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Last edited by IanMetro on 11th Oct 2019 11:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total

These figures seem to tally with ones alex_pescaru presented in the thread I linked to above and show clearly that a steadily rising temperature wouldn’t be apparent until the temperature had reached over 118 degrees and the needle had flipped to hot. By which time it might be too late! Definitely merit in installing Alex's modified file to give a linear gauge.

sadly I have to admit that techie stuff is way beyond me, but I will consider getting the thermostat replaced pretty soon and see what happens.

Thanks for you input. 2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

If your changing the thermostat, wouldn’t it be a good idea to change the coolant temp sensor
At the same time they don’t seem expensive and while the coolant is out
Might save doing twice

Markduc

good idea sounds sensible,  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Your welcome
Must admit tho if it was me doing I would of forgotten

I liked to play in our FL2
what I didn't realise is that the radiators can get partially blocked with mud. been great for years, but dragging the caravan to Cornwall one year the gauge went very high, made it - just. Local dealer diagnosed blocked radiator (AA warranty said hard cheese). so lots of jet washing got me home safe and a new radiator solved the problem.

Don't forget the basics, radiators do die, especially if abused. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

what actually can go wrong with a thermostat? Just looks like a couple of plastic tubes to me . . .

Is it at all possible that (as Markduc alluded to) all it needs is just a new coolant temp sensor and not a whole new body ?


https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/dw12-the...1226-c.asp 2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Why not just buy a cheap OBDII reader and ask the car, seriously in this day and age changing parts to find a fault can cost a fortune.
Any cheap OBDII reader will do the basics such as engine temperature, plug it in and go for a short drive with the passenger keeping an eye on the engine temperature on the reader.

I'm not suggesting that you spend £200-£200 on a model specific diagnostics reader, which would pay for itself over and over again. You have a very complicated vehicle, with masses of information that can easily be retrieved, knowing what to do with that information is the skilled part, but many of the simpler tasks (like watching the temperature rises steadily) are not beyond anyone with the skills to change a wheel. OK this excludes the wife, who doesn't even know how to turn off the TV, funny how she manages internet shopping easily though  Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Actually Andy, I have one, like this , may give it a try , thanks for that.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KW808-OBD2-Scan...Swy0JaIQ77 2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Andy131 wrote:

Why not just buy a cheap OBDII reader and ask the car, seriously in this day and age changing parts to find a fault can cost a fortune.
Any cheap OBDII reader will do the basics such as engine temperature, plug it in and go for a short drive with the passenger keeping an eye on the engine temperature on the reader.

I'm not suggesting that you spend £200-£200 on a model specific diagnostics reader, which would pay for itself over and over again. You have a very complicated vehicle, with masses of information that can easily be retrieved, knowing what to do with that information is the skilled part, but many of the simpler tasks (like watching the temperature rises steadily) are not beyond anyone with the skills to change a wheel. OK this excludes the wife, who doesn't even know how to turn off the TV, funny how she manages internet shopping easily though

Very solid advice....