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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 
Cam chain timing 2007

Hi, has anyone got a diagram for the chain timing that runs the 2 cams.
I marked the arrows to the coloured links but it's just spinning over with no compression so I'm guessing the timing is still out, any help will be appreciated, thanks[/u]

Post #378180 11th Sep 2019 7:49 am
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AJ918



Member Since: 26 Mar 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

This is taken from the workshop manual





Hope it's of help.

Post #378181 11th Sep 2019 8:10 am
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

Hi, thanks for the help but I can't see anything lol, cheers

Post #378186 11th Sep 2019 8:46 am
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

Just checked your gallery, thanks I'll have a look!

Post #378187 11th Sep 2019 8:48 am
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

That's how I set them up, still spinning over with no compression though, hmmm

Post #378277 13th Sep 2019 1:22 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Did you manage to get your timing issue sorted?

Post #378645 22nd Sep 2019 8:36 am
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

Nope it's just sitting atm, going to remove the head this week to check for valve damage have you got the same problem?

Post #378662 22nd Sep 2019 4:44 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

I’m just about to lift the head off my motor (I’ve just spent a big chunk of the weekend pulling everything off from
around it) as I’m suspecting a dropped valve or something has been sucked into a combustion chamber (the timing belt was fine). I know how hard it has been to get to this point so can understand your frustration of getting it all back together and have no compression and would like to
try and avoid the same scenario. Can you keep us updated?

Post #378667 22nd Sep 2019 7:39 pm
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

What's the problem with yours? These engines do run a camchain aswell and the timing can move on these if the tensioner fails or chain snaps ect

Post #378726 23rd Sep 2019 6:09 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Sadly I can’t say yet what is exactly wrong with mine. I’ve removed the rocker cover expecting to find a dropped valve or something as equally catastrophic but it looks ok. The timing belt was fine but I couldn’t turn the engine over by hand (or the starter motor) and the last time I had successfully started the car it ran like a chaff cutter. Before I remove the head off I’m going to take the sump off to see if I can see anything from below. Any suggestions/ideas are welcome.

Post #378948 28th Sep 2019 1:31 am
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rottieman



Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: swindon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e SE Manual Lago Grey

did you solve your cam timing problem,mine is exactly the same,ive lined the two arrows with the two darker links but then the cam pulley hole wont line up with the hole in the head,i actually bought the vehicle as a non runner in the hope of getting a cheap family car. Confused

Post #379686 11th Oct 2019 1:57 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

I did find out what the problem with mine was, embarrassingly when I removed the swirl flaps I had one of the nuts that holds the egr tube onto the inlet manifold go missing. I thought I may have just put it down somewhere in the garage or it had dropped down onto the sump bash plate so I just replaced it with a new one. Unfortunately it must have dropped into the inlet manifold and eventually it was drawn into one the cylinders. I’m currently have 4 bent valves replaced and will eventually put the whole thing back together.




Post #379706 12th Oct 2019 3:47 am
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rottieman



Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: swindon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e SE Manual Lago Grey

i feel for you mate,thats just what you dont need! it looks as though it could of been a lot worse though,perhaps we could compare notes when you start your rebuild.
my fl2 is driving me insane well the cams are,i aligned the arrows on the cams with the coloured links which left five full links inbetween but i end up with the pulley slot at ten oclock and the hole in the head at seven oclock,i turned the cams back to line the holes up so that i am able to pin them, but with the belt back on i have no compression, ive also tried turning the cams forward until the two holes line up but still no compression,the only thing i havent tried yet is leaving the arrows facing up where they are supposed to be and not pinning it,then turn it over by hand,failing that its bonfire night over here soon Very Happy

Post #379720 12th Oct 2019 2:03 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 87

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

That sounds very depressing!
What were the symptoms/problems with the car when you bought it and what have you worked on and done with the car up and to this point?

Post #379730 12th Oct 2019 7:36 pm
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rottieman



Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: swindon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e SE Manual Lago Grey

i bought it as a non runner, my son and i collected it, and as soon as we heard the engine turning over, we knew straight away there was no compression,i just assumed it would be a broken timing belt and bent valves but on removing the timing belt cover i could see a new belt had just been fitted,which i believe the previous owner had fitted just in case the pistons missed the valves,but on finding he had no compression decided to sell rather than repair, now instead of waiting to get a compression tester,i jumped straight in and removed the head,and found absolutely nothing wrong with it,no bent valves,no marks on the gasket,so i had it pressure tested and the face checked for warpage,all was good,i dont believe this has anything to do with the bottom end as there is no compression on any of the cylinders,which brings me to where i am now,so my plan for tomorrow is to alter the cam timing to where it is supposed to be but i will mark it, as i wont be able to pin it because the holes do not line up, and we'll see what happens,i'll let you know how it goes..

Post #379749 13th Oct 2019 3:38 pm
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