hi all, bought my freelander september 2016, all well until last april when i had to change the egr valve assembly including cooler as i kept getting the reduced performance message once the engine was warm.

since then i have had to remove the haldex and clean the pump and replace the filter, this has cured the traction reduced message.

anyhow its now done 90k ( 2012 model xs) and have decided not to risk the cambelt.

i have bought the kit including water pump and the locking kit and coolant, i am also going to replace the auxilary belt.

any how, looking at a few videos on the internet i see that bolts can be used to push the crankshaft sensor ring off the crankshaft rather than using a puller, does any one who has done the job recall the size of bolts needed to push it off the crankshaft, just trying to get everything ready before i start.

I am collecting the parts i need to do the same job. My understanding is that it's a pair of M6 screws that are required. Anyone confirm?

I'm going to do this on Thursday and yes I have a pair of M6 bolts ready as I read somewhere that's it what you need.  FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

I did this job last month. The CSR on mine didn't have bolt holes 2011MY. I got it off using two small screwdrivers in the inner slots. I was very careful not to touch the outer part. I also changed the Camshaft and Front Crankshaft oil seals since they are relatively cheap and it was open anyway.

hi all, thanks for the input, bought the gates kit and a camshaft / crankshaft locking kit, going to do the job this weekend / bank holiday friday

i have ordered a new auxilary belt ands will change that if it arrives in time.

i will get a couple of m6 bolts

Are you going to change the auxiliary belt tensioner? I can't decide whether it's worth doing or not.

hi, if its noisey when i look at it then yes

i was a bit off with the car when the problem with the haldex appeared but now that its fixed ( oil and filter change did the trick ) i have decided to hang onto it and spend a bit on it.

hi all, started to remove the timing belt and have spent at least 3 hours, removing starter, fitting the locking kit and finally removing the belt and the tensioner and pulley.
Difficult bits for me were -

Fitting the long locking bar that locates in the flywheel, the hole was full of corrosion and it too ages ( 45 mins) to gently tap the bar into the hole.
The locking took that locks onto the teeth of the fly wheel - no bolts were included ion the kit to attach it to the starter motor bolt holes in the casing - luckily i had some bolt and nut that o could use

the crankshaft bolt was really difficult to undo, even using a 600,, breaker bar , I was worried that the bolt was going to snap but I guess the force required was due to the locktite.

working on my drive way I have been going out when the sun has gone down as although its been a lovely weekend for relaxing on the beach or pub, its not much fun when your in full sun trying to remove a starter motor.

Anyhow, the belt etc is off now so tomorrow it should be back together again. The most difficult parts look to be the tensioner adjustment due to its location.

Thank for the feedback on this. Very useful to know.

I did this on Thursday. If it helps, I tensioned the belt with the pointer in the slot and did the full 10 revolutions etc procedure - pointer still in the slot. Did the extra 2 revolutions etc and pointer still in the slot !

The worst bit for me was the radiator drain plug - could not get anything at all to come out despite all the turning and wiggling I could do so just drained via the water pump drain - replenished about 5.5 litres of coolant so not the full amount but as good as I could do. Good luck tomorrow. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

hi pedro, still concerned about the adjuster, i have the instructions that came with the kit and when i refit on monday I will do as you have done, ie rotate the engine and check the tensioner

Did you have problems removing the camshaft bolt?

I removed the bottom hose to drain the fluid, mine is a 2012 car and i couldn't see a drain plug

my cambelt looks as new as does the pump and adjuster, the car is an ex company car sent to a local dealer as a px and i have the full service history (landrover) , i called the dealer that has serviced the car and they haven't changed the belt but i was surprised at its condition, but at least i know that it has been done.

just glad that the crankshaft bold didnt snap when i was removing it

The tensioner is a bit of a pig.

I had to get help. Got a mate to hold the allen key from underneath whilst I tightened the tensioner bolt.

I used my torque multiplier to remove the crankshaft bolt. easy with this tool. Only used it on three cars but worth it's weight in gold.

The pointer in the slot thing is interesting. A couple of years ago I replaced the belt on my wife's Peugeot 207 and lined up the pointer as per instructions. I rotated the engine several times etc and eventually had the nerve to start it up. All was well but a few days later, and after the car had covered about 50 miles, I whipped the timing cover off (it just clips on with that engine) and to my horror the pointer had moved. I assumed that it must be the belt stretching so after that I kept an eye on it and every time I looked it was in a different position either side of the notch. I did some research and apparently the belt tension depends on how the engine stops and the pointer is really just for the initial set up. Anyway I left it as it was and she did about 8k miles with no issues before she sold it. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I didn't remove the 'camshaft' bolt ! If you meant the crankshaft, yes it was very tight due to the Threadlock and stays tight right until just before it came out.

I took the precaution of blowing out the Threadlock residue from inside the hole before I put the new bolt in. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

In the process of fitting a new timing belt. I noticed in the Gates instructions it says that an impact gun must not be used as it may damage the crank.

I was surprised at this as I know a lot of garages use impact guns to remove crank pulley bolts.

I also wondered what the difference was between an impact gun on the crank & the starter motor. It would seem to be a similar load via the fly wheel?

There’s no mention of this in the Haynes or Land Rover manual. Any thoughts?