Alex,

I didn't realize that Dimple used the Volvo part number

It all makes sense now

Volvo part # 30713275 (no magnet, this is what you bought)

Dimple part # 30713275 (with magnet, part number shows application, in this case Volvo)

I didn't realize that Dimple had done that

It all makes sense now


This thread has more information (you responded to this thread also

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29861.html

Sorry about the confusion

Take care

Paul

Once again marked for future reference, all oil changes due this year with out fail.

I still have not got round to this yet I am thinking of taking the FL to Austin bell engineering to get all the oils changed in one go.

California being a long ways from Bell Engineering, I did my own transfer box oil.

I drilled and tapped a drain plug, following a suggested technique from another forum. *Should* have been easy, but ended up harder than it needed to be... I came very close to needing some welding or a new transfer case.

There's what appears to be a boss for a drain at the bottom of my case.

Jacked up all corners, to keep it level. My kid was helping. I had a drain pan in place and had already measured and drilled a small pilot hole. Due to the cramped space around the drain pan I relied on my kid to watch the drill from a better angle and warn me if it slipped off center. Well, it did, and she didn't. Sigh. In the pic you can see the black magic marker for what *should* have been the bottom center of the hole.

By the time I realized it, it was too late, hole was already too deep. The drill hit the side of boss which pushed it away at an angle early in the process so the hole was just barely accessible for the tap and drain plug thanks to the slight angle offset. If I had to do it again, I'd drill several successively larger pilot holes instead of just one little one. You do need a 90* drill.

I used 1/8 NPT (PLENTY big enough). NPT because the boss was rough and probably wouldn't seal with a washer. I chose a brass square head plug so I could drill the head for lockwire, and it worked out because there was no way a hex head plug would have fit after I drilled the wrong place (too close to the side of the boss).

I tapped carefully, a little at a time especially since I knew my plug could not go in too deep due to clearance. Tested the plug each step of the way until I got the depth I needed. Plenty of meat in the case there. Chase the threads with the tap a few times to get as much metal out as possible. I had two liters of fluid so I did a good flush with one of them after the tap. Jacked the driver side up a bit to help it flow out (put it back to level before filling though).

Tap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797JWQ...&psc=1


I used yellow teflon tape on the plug, and added a half-arse lockwire.

I bought a syringe with a small tube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNR7N...&psc=1

The small tube made it VERY hard to move the fluid, I used a larger hand pump to fill the case, but the syringe was the only way to extract the 100ML. The small hose can be worked around the gear(s) with some difficulty to extract 100ML... even that took some elbow grease and I'm big.

Anybody know how much to extract on a LR2? My bootleg LR manual says 120ML, the volvo dude in the video says 100ML. I did about 110ML counting what was in the tube.

I'll monitor for leaks. I think the plug barely bottomed out the threads in the hole, if it leaks I think I'll grind off some wiggle room on the side of the boss and tap it a little deeper.

Next up: Rear Diff and Haldex.

Click image to enlarge

120 ml I believe is correct when levelling. I did mine at the weekend, I also found the oil took more effort to get out with the syringe, with the other areas I just got it started and it would syphon itself out, but with the transfer case it looked like it was going to take all day so resorted to back to the syringe, managed to extract only about 500 ml in total. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

shiggsy: how did you manage to drain the PTU oil?

I was hoping to use my Pela suction pump but there doesnt seem to be any room to pass a suction tube into the PTU.
Ive tried several different diameter rubber and silicone tubes but cannot get them to turn down in front of what appears to be a barrier just inside the fill hole. I cant tell what this actually is though.

I can see into the hole by looking over the crossmember near the exhaust there is hardly any gap.




How are you supposed to drain the excess oil out after a top up ?

Click image to enlarge

The tube I used was only 5mm thick. It is difficult to feed it down, I managed by feeding it down at about a 7 o'clock angle, though I have seen a post saying 5 o'clock. Edit: Actually it was in this thread on page 1

Quote:

A 6mm silicone hose worked well and I was able to extract almost all oil.The hose has to be positioned between 4 and 5 o'clock to get inside and reach the bottom.

 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Thanks Shiggsy. I was about to give up for the day when I too re-read the thread and found the mention of the 4-5 o'clock position for insertion and managed to pass a narrow tube. Connected that to a series of larger tubes which allowed me to attach the Pela pump.

Sucked only 400ml out - had a good wiggle around too.
Had to put 650ml back in for it to overflow. The removed the 120ml as directed.

Big difference between old and new (5 years, 40K miles)




Change the autobox oil tomorrow maybe.  Jules

Last edited by jules on 1st Sep 2019 12:50 am. Edited 1 time in total

Its so stupid thy don't put drain plugs in these things.

I found the transmission oil change quite easy, although checking the oil level by having the engine running and removing the level plug is a rather counter intuitive way of doing things. Just make sure you can remove the filler plug first before removing the level or drain plugs. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Yeah had that issue once on my old Defender's LT77 gearbox - filler plug was so tight I thought it might shear off. Those square headed plugs round off really easy too. Jules

Yorky Bob wrote:

Interesting Mod Not for the fainthearted.

Oil from Millers UK

Gearbox TRX SYNTH 75W/80 2ltrs.

Transferbox TRX SYNTH 75W/90 0.75ltrs

Rear Differential TRX SYNTH 75W/90 0.75ltrs

Millers Note

Quote:

The front differential is from the Transaxle manual gearbox. Please note do not use the 75w/90 for the gearbox you must use the 75w/80 as you will not be able to select the gears

Millers note:

Take no notice of the antifoaming BOT oil as all gear oils have anti foam additive otherwise the oils would be all over the place. They try to frighten people into taking the car into the main dealers and pay through the nose for something which they think is special and it is not.

Artic,

As long as you aren't planning a trip to the artic circle then what you picked is fine.

When the transmission is cold take it easy on the shifts.

Here is the important take away

Your Gear oil meets

GL4

GL5

If it didn't meet GL4 then it likely has a lot of extreme protection additives and it can corrode copper based alloys (Brass or Bronze are copper based alloys).
The Synchromesh ring in the manual gear box is a copper based alloy.

Don't worry about 75W90 vs 75W80

The 75W is the viscosity when cold and both are the same

You might notice your 45 miles per gallon dropping to 44 miles per gallon if this 2% loss in economy bothers you then you should switch to the synthetic gear oil.

But if you are that worried about fuel economy you should be setting the tire pressure to the maximum as specified by the manual and checking the pressure every week.


One last thought a Gear oil that has an aggressive protection chemistry will not meet the GL4 specification.

However a gear oil with an aggressive protection chemistry will provide more protection to the pinion bearing in the rear differential.

In fact the Mobil 1 Delvac 75W90 that I am using in my rear differential and front power transfer unit doesn't meet the Yellow Metal corrosion requirements of GL4 (It does meet GL5 but it doesn't meet GL4)

This might be why I am still on my original pinion bearing at 125,000 miles when it was making noise at 50,000 miles before I switched to the Mobil 1 Delvac 75W90.

For the Rear Differential and front power transfer unit I recommend a gear oil that doesn't meet the GL4 specification, find a gear oil that meets GL5 and doesn't meet GL4.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/gl4-gl5-mt1.40558/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

Thanks

Paul

[quote]As long as you aren't planning a trip to the artic circle then what you picked is fine.

When the transmission is cold take it easy on the shifts.

Here is the important take away

Your Gear oil meets

GL4

GL5

If it didn't meet GL4 then it likely has a lot of extreme protection additives and it can corrode copper based alloys (Brass or Bronze are copper based alloys).
The Synchromesh ring in the manual gear box is a copper based alloy.

Don't worry about 75W90 vs 75W80

The 75W is the viscosity when cold and both are the same

You might notice your 45 miles per gallon dropping to 44 miles per gallon if this 2% loss in economy bothers you then you should switch to the synthetic gear oil.

But if you are that worried about fuel economy you should be setting the tire pressure to the maximum as specified by the manual and checking the pressure every week.


One last thought a Gear oil that has an aggressive protection chemistry will not meet the GL4 specification.

However a gear oil with an aggressive protection chemistry will provide more protection to the pinion bearing in the rear differential.

In fact the Mobil 1 Delvac 75W90 that I am using in my rear differential and front power transfer unit doesn't meet the Yellow Metal corrosion requirements of GL4 (It does meet GL5 but it doesn't meet GL4)

This might be why I am still on my original pinion bearing at 125,000 miles when it was making noise at 50,000 miles before I switched to the Mobil 1 Delvac 75W90.

For the Rear Differential and front power transfer unit I recommend a gear oil that doesn't meet the GL4 specification, find a gear oil that meets GL5 and doesn't meet GL4.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/gl4-gl5-mt1.40558/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

Thanks

Paul

Quote:

Here is a good video showing why you need to be very concerned about viscosity if you are going to the Artic Circle

Ok so not being 100% on the 75w/90 i have used in the gearbox i purchased this last night it should be here Wednesday 75w/80.

So will be changed that day if the weather is kind, the 75w/90 will now act as a flush oil until then.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Synth...e=ST...2749.l2649

Watching the video which is of a diff, should the Mobil oil froth up like that, it also looks like the conventional oil gear was started later than the Mobil side test, it could be though that the tests were in fact done individually then spliced side by side for the test, also was it an independent test or was it carried out for Mobil to boost their sales ? what we do know that synthetic oil is better than mineral oil.