OK - I'm well up to speed on my Freelander 1 - tyre matching/VCU monitoring/IRD wrecking etc - but a total newbie on the FL2.
Question 1:-
Is the normal Haldex road-going mode not pure 2 wheel drive other than at take-off?
And so - is tyre matching as critical as on the FL1 - I know it's still good practise but there is no mention in the handbook of new tyres to the rear etc as there is on FL1
Does the Haldex control recognise a difference in wheel speed as small as generated by say a difference in tread depth of 4mm front to back - and would it re-act differently to the same difference back to front? If not it would be just as bad "new on rear" as "new on front"
Question 2:-
Is there a gearing difference front to back as in the FL1?

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32670.htm...rent+tyres Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Q1 No
Q2 No

I take it that you are a potential buyer, forget FL1, FL2 is a completely different beast.
Be aware that there are 2 different Haldex units in FL2, both are electronically controlled, although the later one is better and has an electric pump to allow full programmed control.

Some light reading on the subject and other's experience.
http://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?sea...rch_time=0

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19288-15.html

Try googling 'Haldex gen 3' or 'Hadex gen 4' for further info.

If you are buying, then I believe that the late model SD4s are the best. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

I have just aquired a 2010 FL2 - Haldex 4 - still also running the FL1

Get it on good matching new tyres and switch from front to back every 10K miles. Otherwise just drive it and service the Haldex at no more than 40K miles. If anywhere near the centre of England get Bell engineering to service the Haldex. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yeah - IanMetro - My Haldex is Gen4 () YorkyBob - just serviced it myself thanks -no probs - just "kissed" the edge off the flange wit a grinder/cutting disk to pop out the pump with the driveline still in place

Unfortunately you cant do that on the later ones as the flange is massive. Jules

Oh! - well lucky 'ole me then - it worked well on the Haldex Gen
4 on a 2010 TD4 ()

Here is the problem on my 2014 SD4




Sorry this website is forever rotating images Jules

Oh! - that's tough

Its makes it so much more awkward

The prop shaft flange is now deep inside the huge haldex flange. Thus to change/clean haldex Gen 4 filters I found you needed to:
Remove exhaust
Drop prop shaft support
Remove 2 sub frame bolts to tilt haldex/diff
Raise a front wheel so haldex and prop can be rotated
Undo prop shaft flange bolts
Separate prop from haldex
Remove haldex from rear diff
Make a tool to hold the rear of haldex flange - to fit in the narrow gap at the back of the haldex flange (tool wont fit to the front of the flange without probably bending the bolts)
Undo haldex flange nut
Remove haldex pump and clean filter
Replace haldex main filter

Go have a cup of tea and rest before putting it all back and refilling haldex Jules

dfossil wrote:

I have just aquired a 2010 FL2 - Haldex 4 - still also running the FL1