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Home > Tips & Tricks > Fixing a cross-threaded wheel stud
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

ok many thanks Bow down

Post #359302 23rd Oct 2018 8:20 pm
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

Unfortuately for me it did not work, new Hub???????? Big Cry Big Cry Big Cry

Post #359441 26th Oct 2018 5:32 pm
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4090

United Kingdom 

I still can’t see why the studs won’t just knock out as per my picture earlier in this thread. Have you tried? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #359452 26th Oct 2018 9:02 pm
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

Steve D yes you have a point Thumbs Up and I was just looking at the pictures of the back part of the Hub and thinking the same thing.

The look as though they are just press fitted in a good wack from hammer might do the trick. I have a bought a cheap Hub of ebay and going to experiment knocking one out. The whole hub replacement looks expensive and tricky to me.

Post #359453 26th Oct 2018 9:09 pm
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4090

United Kingdom 

I normally just knock them out (use a copper hammer to avoid damaging the thread), tap them in as best you can to get them started, fit the wheel and tighten the nut until the stud has gone through as far as it can. Recheck tightness after a couple of hundred miles. Let us know how you get on. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #359455 26th Oct 2018 9:24 pm
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

Does anyone if you can access the lugs (studs) from behind after removing the Front Discs without ripping the whole driveshaft off and suspension for a complete Hub bearing replacement

Post #359529 28th Oct 2018 10:42 am
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

I think you can Very Happy found this Hub replacement pic

Click image to enlarge

Post #359531 28th Oct 2018 11:05 am
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Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4090

United Kingdom 

I have had one in the past that was a bit tricky though remove so had to cut stud in half to be able to remove it and on same vehicle, I just ground a third of the flat end off to give some wiggle room to get it past the hub and into the flange. That one looks like you have bags of room. Just go for it. It really is a two minute job! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #359540 28th Oct 2018 1:19 pm
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casper



Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Bedford
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

I cleaned up the thread again with the dye tool to give it one last chance and it worked I got the nut on although it was a bit stiff it went on and torqued up fine solid as a rock Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy , might have cross threaded it all the way not sure but at least it can stay on there till tyres need replacing or wheel bearing goes so I am not touching it for the moment. Was a bit worried about the load just on 4 bolts given the weight of those wheels

It is good to know that you can replace the studs and avoid a £500 LR bill for putting on a new wheel hub & bearing

Also I used a different Dye tool but same design as other make: EWK Reverse Damaged Wheel Stud Thread Chaser Repair Rethreading Kit 121.25, 121.5, 141.5 mm by EWK. the dye seem to cut better.

so thanks all for your help Thumbs Up

Post #359554 28th Oct 2018 5:20 pm
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