So My Freely has just been in for service, MOT, new rear Diff, nearside wheel bearing and Gear linkage cable, so a nice cheap £1800 when I spot on the rear office wheel arch:



Which leads to ;






Now I must admit that since owning the Freel2 I have entrusted the washing, waxing and cleaning to a mobile Valeter but to be fair to him the car was last washed and waxed at Christmas.

So I need to rectify and would like anyone's opinion on how best to do this.

I am thinking, wash and dry the area, brush with a wire brush to remove anything loose them coat with hammerite which one of the silvers is a very good match as I found when I painted the black towing eye, I was then thinking when it was dry to cover with Matt vinyl adhesive so that the gap between the wheel arch trim and the door seal is fully covered - any better ideas?

Cheers  Current 2008 Freel2 HSE
Prev 2010 Freel2 GS & 57 Disco3 HSE

I have found that some stuff called Kurust works well on car rust, it reacts with the iron oxide (rust) to form a black compound which you can then paint directly over. You can get it in various sizes on ebay. I have tried other things like zinc paint (a cheap form of galvanizing) but this is the one that works for me. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Once remedied I went with Prevention before needing a cure
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic21986.html

That is exactly what I am hoping to achieve after I have sorted the rust out.

I keep looking at other 4x4s and thinking back to the D3 and my X3 and they both had plastic edges right around the wheel arch which undoubtably would have stopped this area getting damaged in the first place.

 Current 2008 Freel2 HSE
Prev 2010 Freel2 GS & 57 Disco3 HSE

dorsetfreelander wrote:

I have found that some stuff called Kurust works well on car rust, it reacts with the iron oxide (rust) to form a black compound which you can then paint directly over. You can get it in various sizes on ebay. I have tried other things like zinc paint (a cheap form of galvanizing) but this is the one that works for me.

thechopper79 wrote:

So My Freely has just been in for service, MOT, new rear Diff, nearside wheel bearing and Gear linkage cable, so a nice cheap £1800 when I spot on the rear office wheel arch:





Cheers

That bad for a 7 year old modern vehicle. By comparison our 10 year old Fabia has no body work corrosion at all - 120K miles, rarely washed and usually covered in seagull droppings as my son had it in Lowestoft for years.

Where has yours been - wading in the Dead Sea ?

Im going to get the Waxoyl out this weekend. I guess part of the problem is the rubber strips on the wheel arch edge trap the muck. Cow slurry is horribly corrosive too - live near any farms ? Jules

Good question!

I have owned the car since July 2014 and covered 15k motorway miles since but unless I missed a stone chip when I bought the car I'm guessing it's deteriorated over that time - not nice at all and tbh is gutting as I always make sure my cars are looked after.

This is the first car I haven't washed and waxed myself so am kicking myself for not picking it up sooner - I may have to change my Valeter! Current 2008 Freel2 HSE
Prev 2010 Freel2 GS & 57 Disco3 HSE

I don't think this has been caused by a stone chip.

it may have been a previous damage repair that has not been done properly.

or it is a result of the environment the car has been used in, eg very salty conditions, such as up in the north of Scotland, etc

have you checked the other arches, etc for similar corrosion ?

do you know the history of the car ?

Iain

ps I remember a previous post where the poster had bought a second hand FL2 from a dealer and subsequently found an unacceptable amount of corrosion especially under the bonnet area. He eventually had the car exchanged.

Just a thought but don't most cars have some sort of anti corrosion warranty these days? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I'm with Ian on this one - dodgy repair at some point. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

Is that not the interaction from the wire inserts rusting within the rubber edging strip, if so it won't have come from within the body metal.
The life of this edging strip seems to be 2 years max before it starts swelling with rust and needs renewing.

Thanks for all the feedback guys - the question now is should I be attempting this repair myself or should it be heading to a body shop?

I've ordered a set of new rubber trims and as mentioned was going to wire brush the worst off then use hammerite or the other that has been mentioned before then covering with vinyl to ensure that the patch that exposed is then covered - will this be sufficient or am I setting myself up for this to spread over the next year or so???

All advice much appreciated.

If it is a body shop anyone know a good one near Kendal or Ulveraton? Current 2008 Freel2 HSE
Prev 2010 Freel2 GS & 57 Disco3 HSE

The corrosion warranty is six years, so this car is borderline.
It is also in the terms and conditions of the warranty that a Land Rover dealer must inspect the car every 12 months for any signs of corrosion, if you use an independent service agent then you must get your car separately inspected at a LR dealer, the warranty otherwise may not be honoured.

Hi Taztastic, it's been serviced by a mix of Landrover and independent dealers without any record of any corrosion or bodywork checks.

I'm under no illusion that this would be covered by Landrover as annoying as it that it does have this exposed area that leaves it wide open to stone chips Current 2008 Freel2 HSE
Prev 2010 Freel2 GS & 57 Disco3 HSE

LR will say they have a inspection as part of the service, we know they haven't, the same way they inspect the brakes without ever taking wheels off, its all a scam to give them as many get outs as possible.

It looks like you have caught it early enough and with the remedies on here should be able to stop the tin worms in their tracks