Hi - if you struggle trying to clean the inside of the glass door on your wood burner - ( obviously when the stove is cold !!! ) - scrunch up a bit of kitchen roll - dampen it - dip it in the fine wood ash left from last fire - use that to clean off the " black " crap on the glass - polish off the residue with a clean bit of kitchen roll - works a treat !!!

Ill tell the wife

fire ash is an old remidy used for such jobs before cleaning products were invented


another tip,, get one of those heat powered fans and sit it on the stove, blows the heat across lovely. only dont point it directly at you or you will end up as a dessicated lump on the sofa


my cousin chopping logs for his firewood business
http://www.thelogshed.com/video At work
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Good tip, I used to do this, but don't use the ash if it is coal/solid fuel ash - that is too abrasive and will scratch the glass. 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
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Tried all types of cleaner at my old house where we had a woodburner.
Only Hob Brite works
Safe on glass as it's for ceramic hobs.
Nothing does a better job Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

If you are getting black coating on the glass it is not burning correctly, either too shut down or damp wood. If on wood shut down any lower vents and open upper vents, if using coal shut the top vents, and open lower vents. There should be a slight brown tinge to the glass, I have never cleaned my glass in seven years, not needed to. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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Dartman is right. Proper airflow will prevent serious buildup. ...

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trouble for me if I open her up and get a nice glass cleaning burn then everyone goes outside and sits in the snow to cool down

I tend to run with top vents open and flue damper closed, otherwise all the heat wallops up the chimney.

no two stoves will ever operate the same as the chimneys can be so different.

Ive recently been burning wood pellets , they burn lovely and clean, but you have to be careful with them, add then to glowing embers with no flames and they heat up and produce flammable gas which explodes alarmingly At work
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I have found the problem is running it hot enough to keep the glass clean. I have a 4.9kW fire so I don't need an air brick bit it is really a de-rated 7kW fire. As CG says, if you run it to keep the glass clean you can't live in the room with it.

I have been using Cif ( the cleaner formerly known as Jif) but I'll have to try Hob Brite.

Also kiln dried wood is probably best as I have tried both and the weight difference between a basket of seasoned and dried is significant which is down to the water content.

I get mine from here; http://www.countryfile.com/blog-post/movin...e-firewood

Seems like yours is too big for the room CG, woodburner that is. You are correct the flue does govern burn rates, too short it doesn't too long and it eats fuel. There should be no direct route from the firebox to the flue with a modern stove, there are various methods for creating an air wash which cleans the glass. Generally unless the flue is very long or the flue exit is in a vacuum area where the smoke and gasses are sucked out a flue or stove damper is unnecessary, if it is then it should be set at one position during an average weather/wind day and left. The stove should always die down when shut down, the damper should be adjusted to create this condition then locked . my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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Woodburners are designed to run on naturally dried wood, normally about 1 to1.5 years old and hard wood, just about any wood left outside with an air course would be suitable, a lean to with the back wall facing the prevailing wind is suitable. Though the stoves will run on pellets, pellets are manufactured for enclosed boilers where the object is to heat water or air in a recirculating closed system and not produce radiated heat and/or convection in a room. It is also possible kiln dried wood can contain preserving chemicals which will increase the burning rate, there is such a thing as too dry wood.Basically you don't need a roaring fire, you need a nice steady controlled burn, the larger the log the better, the best log I use is 18-20" long and 6" in diameter or more one of those will last me 4 hours and no dirty glass. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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much of my wood is home grown, mainly thinnings from a few small woods planted in 1984, ask beech some confers and some oak, I try and leave the oak trees but when you get two oaks growing next to each other one has to go.
The pellets are sweepings up and spills from the boilers in the chicken sheds, not many but when used they do get very hot and clean the glass well.
I was raking the poultry boilers yesterday using a long handle garden rake, I still managed to nearly burn my hands despite wearing welding glove, those pellets burn very hot

the woodstove is a biggish hunter just capable of taking 18" logs but the room isnt small 20ft x 20ft approx. we live in a windy location so I think the flue draws well. At work
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Ours is 20ft x 30Ft with an average 12ft ceiling, with a 12.5Kw Woodwarm multifuel stove, if I run it flat out it can get to 25-30deg C. we leave the door open to the dining room and this shuts down the central heating thermostat. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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We have a Woodwarm stove too....highly recommended. Ours is a 9kw ample for the main barn 30x20 with max 18' ceiling plenty warm enough in the upper gallery with doors left open to both dining room and entrance hall. This year we changed supplier from year old barn dried logs too kiln dried, and now all oak logs which do burn much better. With the Woodwarm air wash system cleaning the glass is never needed. We find a small bed of smokeless coal (called warm) controls the burn nicely it is on 24/7 lit last October won't go out till spring. Kola is the big solid black German Shepherd, Dobbie is.......a breed you've never heard of......yet;)

Last edited by Kola's Kab on 7th Feb 2014 11:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

When we use seasoned hardwood in our Clearview Pioneer we hardly get any staining on the glass. Any that there is can be wiped away with a damp bit of kitchen roll.

We now burn anthracite and we use it to heat the whole house through convection. We get a bit more statining with the anthracite but again a damp tissue removes most of it.

With other brands of stoves have had to use over cleaner to keep it clean.

The Clearview is very similar to the Woodwarm but I can't remember what the difference was, whatever it was I chose the Woodwarm as for what I was looking for, it was superior. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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