I am having a Hayman Reese 50mm tow bar fitted this Friday. The installer has done several without issues. The electrics kit supplied by Hayman Reese plugs into the existing wiring harness without the need to use crimp connectors or any cutting and soldering. This means that it can simply be unplugged if need be for fault isolation if there was any problems in the future. It is complete with an ECU so that the computer doesn’t get upset.
They supply a switch if required to switch off the rear sensors while reversing with a trailer attached. I have asked them to wire the switch but leave it under the rear floor for now as I didn't want them attaching it to the dash. I would rather run the cable and install the switch myself in the future if I find I need it.

Supplied and installed for $845 and being a standard 50mm tow bar unlike the LR 40mm bar, I can fit off the shelf bike racks, anti-sway or load leveling devices if required. I'll update after it if fitted!

Thanks Dropbear.
I look forward to an update once it's installed. I don't have a problem deactivating parking sensors when reversing with a trailer. It's comforting to know that Hayman Reece have a connection that plugs into the current wiring. I'll now make sure the local guy orders the 2011 spec tow bar and fittings (50mm).

Tow bar fitted Friday as planned however they didn't fit a switch to deactivate the parking sensors since the instructions didn't show them how and the guy who had done the previous Freelander was on leave. I didn’t have time to wait until they sorted it out so I decided to take it without and go back another day if I decided that it was really required. Apart from the switch I am happy with the result and have already put the tow bar to use.

Hi Dropbear,

How have you gone on with your towbar and the ECU/switch for the parkign sensors?

I am in the market too, and am not willing to pay $2300 to the dealer for factory fitting one.

Hayman Reese indicated that they have a towbar (part #02509R) which is about $586 RRP and needs an ECU to override the parking sensors etc. Alternatively, you can get LR to fit just the electrics for about $800 including parts etc!

Quick questions:
1) Does the bumper need to be cut for the towbar to be fitted?
2) Can the towing ball be removed?
3) With your HR kit that you had installed, it sounds like you manually enable the ECU or something when you attach the trailor. Is this true?
3) Have you any pics of how your installed towbar looks?

Many thanks,
Confused Whytey

Cancel that!

I have answers now, following a call to a tow-bar installer here in Brisbane.

1) Yes, but it gets finished off so it looks like a good job. LR have to do the cut too if I chose them to do the install instead.
2) Yes, this is how HR towballs work.
3) I think the switch was something additional that you must have requested. If I choose to go the HR loom, I will just let the sensors beep when I am in reverse. I may think about doing the LR official wiring loom instead though.
4) I found some pics on a website.

Many thanks,
Whytey

And it costs just $704 including the HR electrics. A third of the price of LR!!!

For anyone considering installing a non-dealer tow kit I can say that it is reasonably straightforward but time consuming. I did it last Saturday, took all day given the numerous steps but no real issues (you'll need a 22mm socket). I used the 50mm Hayman Reece towbar R2509W ($586 from local ARB dealer) along with the Britpart OEM towing electrics VPLFT0001 (GBP 145.71 plus 30.17 shipping). Then fitted the Narva 12pin socket (82072BL $20) -- wiring instructions are available in another forum topic (Trailer electrical - fit Aust standard 12 pin flat socket). Only thing left to do is get the dealer to alter the settings on the car's computer (so that the reverse sensors are disabled when trailer connected).

- As a follow up, despite the dealer's best efforts they couldn't get the Britpart electrics to connect to the 'computer', as a result the reverse sensors are still enabled. A pain but not the end of the world.

Last edited by AMc on 11th Apr 2012 11:59 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Nice to hear you can DIY. I paid roughly $1000 all up but I still haven't had the computer re-programmed to stop the reversing bleeps driving me mad when I use reverse. I hope that Land Rover will do it as part of my first service?