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Home > Technical > 2010 SD4 auto 62.5k: "slip" @ 1.8-2.2k rpm - help
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 
2010 SD4 auto 62.5k: "slip" @ 1.8-2.2k rpm - help

Hello everyone,

I've consulted this forum a few times in recent weeks as a result of an issue I'm having, though having read through a LOT of posts, it doesn't feel exactly like others I have read about. I'd be extremely grateful for any advice or further diagnostics help, as I'm not sure what to do next - here's the story so far:

Wife's car, bought from reputable independent 18 months ago with main dealer servicing history. Does mainly local driving to shops, school plus one trip of 30 miles on motorway per week.

One day she pulled into the drive and I remarked of a nasty (toxic-like) smell. A week or two later, she felt it kangarooing above 50 mph so asked me to have a look.

I took it for a test drive and could reproduce. It also started what I can only describe as a slipping sound somewhere between 1.8k and 2.2k, though normally at 1.8k. This is a set of chahh-chahh-chahh-chahh noises with minor pitch descending through the three or four "chahh" sounds.

Had a dump-and-fill ATF apparently done (two drains and fills with drive between, apparently) at local garage - I say apparently as they talked me through it as I expected (having read about it on this forum!) but bill didn't tally with what they'd described (!) and the issue was still there.

Took to local independent JLR garage who felt it wasn't fluid but that the 'box would need rebuild/replacement. They pulled some diagnostic codes for me - one of which was P0849 transmission slip. Several other unrelated ones so one or all could have been historic. Noted and cleared.

I felt a full ATF flush would rule out if fluid was causing so booked to have this done. On the way there, my wife and I both heard a low-down vibration start suddently from the rear (nearside?) on the motorway, which lasted for a couple of miles before gradually disappearing.

Driving back from the flush, the noises were still there.
I took it on a decent test drive this morning whereby I could still feel a little kangarooing (it's fairly minor - like a dirty spark plug might feel). I got one chah on two separate occasions but nothing major. Parked up, came back to it 15 mins later, and it did it as soon as I started to drive off, probably in 2nd going to 3rd - chah-chah-chah-chah - at, what, 10 mph?

I can reproduce in steptronic mode. Across at least the first three gears, it always hesitates/jumps at 1.6k rpm then judders from 1.8k - above 2.2k and it's fine.
If heavy-footed (I tried a box reset procedure first) it usually revs through fine.

It seems the slipping only starts/occurs when really hot.

The local JLR indy noted the turbo whiz as being loud;
There is a drone/whine from around 19mph until around 42mph;
I think there is more feedback from accelerator pedal than before the issue started;
There is a loud click (like a relay) infrequently, seemingly to the left hand side - it also clicks when selecting and deselecting reverse.


Any threads, suggestions, advice gratefully received.


Last edited by sd42010 on 18th Sep 2017 11:21 am. Edited 4 times in total

Post #331286 16th Sep 2017 1:59 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hi sd42010. Firstly, only post in one section, not two. You will wind up the mods who will have to combine the posts!

Re your problem, I only know the TD4 and cannot confirm whether it is an identical box in the SD4. Have you replaced with the CORRECT fluid? These auto boxes are very sensitive to the correct fluid specs ( mine is T-IV (JWS 3309). Next, has the level been set correctly? Level check on TD4 is at running temperature (IIRC 60 degrees C). Level check to be done with engine running, in Park & remove drain centre plug to drain off excess fluid.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #331294 16th Sep 2017 5:01 pm
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Geordie Boy



Member Since: 07 Jul 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 108

2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Galway Green

Having read your story of problems regarding your SD4, it reminds me of a similar problem I had many years ago with a BMW 5 series, with an auto box.
The main dealer wanted to replace the box, however the technician I spoke to at the time, suggested I take the car to an auto transmission specialist, that he could recommend!
I did this, & found them to be extremely knowledgeable, & diagnosed the problem after a short test drive.
Long story short, they removed the gearbox bottom cover plate, & replaced gallery ways etc., which had become blocked, & added new ATF fluid, this fixed my problem!
I know the two auto boxes are nothing like each other, but the principle of how they work is, so find an auto transmission specialist in your area, better still if you can find a recommended one!
Good luck

Post #331297 16th Sep 2017 5:56 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2772

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

I had a similar problem for most of my time with an 2011MY SD4 Auto, from 20,000 to 80,000 miles.
Symptoms were, when car very warm, in Summer only, occasionally the car would hesitate between (I think) 2nd and 3rd on a light throttle.
The local Land Rover dealer decided that nothing much was wrong and that it was probably 'learned' behaviour from my driving.
I found this hard to believe so I GOOGLED 'freelander 2 hesitation on acceleration'.
I think it a characteristic of the Freelander, some of the posts are below.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/post330081.html

https://www.picoauto.com/support/topic14621.html

(PS I never resolved it, and we don't get that many hot days anyway.) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #331298 16th Sep 2017 7:11 pm
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

dunkley201 wrote:
Hi

Bob, thank you very much for your reply.

Quote:
Firstly, only post in one section, not two. You will wind up the mods who will have to combine the posts!

In the second section I did state that I wasn't sure which one to post in (neither really applied IMO), with a note to mods to move/merge as appropriate.

Quote:
Have you replaced with the CORRECT fluid? These auto boxes are very sensitive to the correct fluid specs ( mine is T-IV (JWS 3309).

I did note the posts from yourself and Alex re this prior. I also Wikipedia'd Dexron, understood the grade differences, and that Dexron Vi/6 was 100% compatible (or better) than OEM III/3. I also noted the Aisin Warner fella's statement on which fluids they support (namely: "only T-WS or T4, or (JWS) 3309 or 3324").
At the first garage, I didn't ask which fluid they used, assuming that if newer fluid (whichever grade/type) improved the situation, I'd do a full flush with the right fluid. I asked retrospectively which one they'd used and they said "Dexron iV/4" which didn't inspire confidence - better than them saying Dexron V/5 though!

I asked the garage I subsequently found who could do a flush (the only one in a reasonable radius to me BTW) about their ATF and they said they used Mannol fully synthetic - googling the Mannol product, I interpreted it as Dexron Vi/6 equivalent, and as it was what they use in their machine, I wasn't really in a position to request something else. I guess I went for this on the basis that if a flush had reduced the issue, I'd have the option to put the best 3309-equivilent in (somehow!).

Quote:
Has the level been set correctly? Level check on TD4 is at running temperature (IIRC 60 degrees C). Level check to be done with engine running, in Park & remove drain centre plug to drain off excess fluid.

Again, I was aware (thanks to you and this forum) of the requirement for exacting levels however when you are dealing with garage-folk, it is sometimes difficult to express! I can only assume that the first garage used the drain centre plug to ensure level was correct, however I cannot confirm. I assume the 2nd garage who did the flush replaced only with same amounts, however there was a spillage after the flush - I asked about the levels in light of this and the chap explained the level plug procedure. He did, however, say he'd put 0.5 litres extra in there which, on face value, I'm not sure is possible now I'm typing this!

Therefore I will do as you suggest to check levels - though I understand your instructions, in practice following them may be more problematic!


Based on the above, did you have any more thoughts or suggestions? I'm willing to try anything at this stage!

Post #331299 16th Sep 2017 8:40 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hi, thanks for your detailed reply. My point was, that I am not familiar with the SD4 box so therefore do not know the correct fluid i.e. 3309, 3324 or whatever. I know the SD4 is 6 speed, but is it the same make/model as the TD4?. The Mannol for 3309 looks to be correct for the TD4 box. Re level check, your experience endorses my actions - do it myself, I then know it is right!

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #331315 17th Sep 2017 12:48 am
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

duplicate post 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #331316 17th Sep 2017 12:49 am
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

Quote:
there was a spillage after the flush - I asked about the levels in light of this and the chap explained the level plug procedure. He did, however, say he'd put 0.5 litres extra in there which, on face value, I'm not sure is possible now I'm typing this!


Interestingly, when I called Ashcrofts about the gearbox, I was told they don't do Freelander 2s, though their site seems to indicate differently: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes.html - clicking into the JATCO item at the bottom of the list, under Installation information the page states "we recommend you fill your autobox from dry half a litre above the Land Rover recommended level - i.e 7.5 litres" This may be where the extra 0.5ltrs comes from.

My uneducated thoughts on levels would be that problems are more likely if underfilled rather than overfilled, and that if a top-up has occurred after a flush, it would be reasonable for the level to be right.

Post #331324 17th Sep 2017 7:57 am
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

Given it only happens when the car has been driven fast/is hot, and transmission fluids have been replaced, I wonder how I can attempt to diagnose the issue elsewhere in the drive train.

From previous forum readings, I understand the haldex, and rear and front differentials, are in play here. MAF sensor, turbo, and EGR valve have also been mentioned. Are there any other components that could cause drive issues?

Logically, I would start from the front and go backwards, with the front diff/haldex therefore being first.

I will then go away and research servicing of these components. If anyone has any brief thoughts on this, I'd be grateful to hear. I guess fluids, where I can, should be changed at the very least.

Post #331325 17th Sep 2017 8:06 am
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

dunkley201 wrote:
is it the same make/model as the TD4?

Not sure - did some googling but nothing really found (other than it's the same box as Ford use on a Galaxy and Mondeo!). So I went out earlier and took some pics of it.

The code on the top is 7g9n-14c336-db (titled FoMoCo and footnoted Aisin AW Co Ltd, Japan). Is that the same as yours?


Last edited by sd42010 on 17th Sep 2017 12:13 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #331333 17th Sep 2017 9:14 am
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

(I've edited the original post, adding a couple of other issues in case related: 1) turbo a bit "whizzy"; 2) drone/whine from around 30mph until around 50mph; 3) more feedback from accelerator pedal than before the issue started)

Post #331335 17th Sep 2017 9:39 am
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

sd42010 wrote:
dunkley201 wrote:
is it the same make/model as the TD4?

Not sure - did some googling but nothing really found (other than it's the same box as Ford use on a Galaxy and Mondeo!). So I went out earlier and took some pics of it. The code on the top is 7g9n-14c336-db. Is that the same as yours?


Mine is 6G9N-14C336-CA. Branded FOMOCO and Aisin. That plate is on the "Neutral Switch" on the top of the gearbox. There are noises. on mine at the change point in lower gears. More like a "sigh" or a "wheeze". At one time it did noises similar to a metallic slipping for prolonged periods, which is why I changed the ATF in the first place, which cured it.

I found a second ident plate to the rear of the box, almost under the bulkhead. This identifies it as a TF81SC and 7G9N 7000 s/n 09E3814023.

Bob

Re your symptoms, all seem to be related to engine revs not gears. Are you sure it is the gearbox? 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #331346 17th Sep 2017 11:47 am
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

Quote:
I found a second ident plate to the rear of the box, almost under the bulkhead. This identifies it as a TF81SC and 7G9N 7000 s/n 09E3814023.

Yes I took a picture of mine at the same time - it's Ford / Aisin AW Co Ltd TF-81SC too, serial starts 10F38.

Sounds like same box but maybe mine is one revision on?

Quote:
Re your symptoms, all seem to be related to engine revs not gears. Are you sure it is the gearbox?

That is what I starting thinking when I could reproduce in "manual" yesterday, hence starting to probe other avenues around diffs and haldex. Maybe PTU/power transfer unit?

Might have to find a decent indy Land Rover/Freelander 2 specialist and start working from engine backwards! ?


Last edited by sd42010 on 17th Sep 2017 3:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #331348 17th Sep 2017 12:19 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Diffs, Haldex etc noises will all be road speed related so I would not start there. Engine speed related will be Alternator, Turbo, Turbo pipework etc.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #331351 17th Sep 2017 1:00 pm
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sd42010



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: East London
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 

(Updated the first post with some more info - the smell before the kangarooing and the vibration noise on the motorway)

Quote:
Diffs, Haldex etc noises will all be road speed related so I would not start there.

It does drone/whine at just above 30 mph up to about 50 mph...

Quote:
Engine speed related will be Alternator, Turbo, Turbo pipework etc.

That is very helpful, thank you Bob. I note in some service schedules that all flexi-hoses are supposed to be changed every six years.

I'll have a search for turbo replacement and pipework posts. Thanks for ongoing advice.

Post #331352 17th Sep 2017 1:19 pm
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