Hi Alex, I've actually connected an old SU electric fuel pump to the fuel feed connection at the tank end, the SU pump sucks from a gallon bottle of fuel located on the back seat and feeds the fuel filter so after bleeding air from the lines I'm absolutely sure there is no air in the filter or fuel lines to the engine driven LP lift pump. I'm fairly convinced that the injectors are not getting any signal to open but I'm at a loss as how to test this without the use of a oscilloscope. I guess I could remove a injector and connect it to the HP fuel rail and electrical supply and see it its spraying. But I hoped there would be a simple way of seeing if the injectors were getting a signal I guess there are no 'noid' lights available on the market for the 150V or there about (diesel) injector pulses? Many thanks again

You could try to put a led in series with a 10k resistor in parallel with the injector. Try it both ways, as you can't know for sure the polarity .

You could also try to disconnect one or more injectors and try to start it. But only disconnect them in the ignition off state, NEVER during cranking or running the engine.
If the ECU is throwing some missing injectors error codes, then you can safely assume that the injectors are OK and also their drive and monitoring circuits.
In that case, if there is no fuel injected, it means the ECU doesn't see properly the cam/crank pair signal and that is the only reason it doesn't drive the injectors. Any other sensors' signal can be safely ignored during startup.
All this considering that the ECU is still working properly....

Is there GOOD fuel at the injectors? if you slacken off the fuel delivery pipes entering the injectors when cranking it should be easy to see running off. If yes you could then connect an injector outside the engine and see if it ejects fuel out when cranking. If it does not I have little current info about the system to say that much more.
If it does and is still not starting I also have no idea also as highly compressed diesel hitting the combustion chambers should fire off with the high the compression heat as so generated and nothing in this world should stop it. I assume you have very high compression in all 4 cylinders? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Also take into consideration that if the ECU is seeing any problem with any injector or the injectors' driving circuit, it will not start the engine at all, because of the damage to the engine that could appear if an injector remains open.
But that will throw an error for sure....
Remember, we are talking here about piezo injectors that could remain in an open state very long time without applying current to them.

Now thinking back at my previous post, I believe the LED idea is not so good at all, as the pulses for opening and closing the injectors are under 200 us and you won't be able to see a LED lit for that period of time...

LE: You could read here some material about piezo injectors: https://www.picoauto.com/library/automotiv...zo-current

Guys, compression on all four cylinders appears ok.
Very little fuel is passed when an injector pipe is cracked open during cranking but the fuel rail pressure shows around 4200psi when the connections are tight this is why I'm thinking the injectors are not seeing a signal to open. I had noted the incredibly short time the injectors see a signal less than two milliseconds so that's why I guess the only way to test if they are getting a signal is to use an oscilloscope Although I think I may have a go at removing an injector from a cylinder to see if its firing into the atmosphere when the engine is cranked. (I'll stay clear of it though!)
Would you agree that its possibly best just to renew the cam position sensor for a trial as this is a fairly cheap item.
The Autel rev counter reads around 200 RPM when cranking so I'm guessing the crank sensor is ok.
The most annoying thing is that the car was running ok prior to breaking the camshaft fuel pump drive. I'm still working away from home so cant get into more testing for now. I guess if the ECU was faulty then this would mean a visit to a specialist for reprogramming of a replacement unit. Thanks again.

any luck yet?

Hi Sid, Not long back from working away so little done although this afternoon I have fitted a new cam position sensor and throttle body and motor, there are no fault codes appearing.
Fuel rail pressure on cranking appears ok and the crank sensor must be working ok as the rev counter and obdII reader shows the RPM (around 200) when cranking.
I guess that I have not spun it over long enough to build up a back pressure in the injector spill lines I do believe that there needs to be a back pressure there for the injectors to function?
I'm not convinced that the injectors are getting a signal from the ECU but don't know how to go about checking to see if a signal is there. I'm in the process of buying an old oscilloscope so I may be able to use this to check for pulses if I can work out how to use it as I'm more nuts & bolts than amp & volts
I have checked the injector circuit fuse and its ok. Don't know if its work giving it a few bursts at running with carb cleaner so as to help displacing any air in the HP fuel circuit?

any news/ ,there is another recent post with the same problems.

Sid, I've recently been corresponding with Trav on the 'Non Start' thread. I'm once again working away so cant get a look at the car however I have now purchased a current clamp and oscilloscope which I'll hook-up for injector tests on my return.
Trav has come up with some good ideas that I'll need to check out on my return. Hopefully I'm getting closer to at last finding the fault.
I did a resistance ohms check on all the injectors and they all checkout ok within the recommended limits.
I thought that if the rev counter was working ok which it is then the crankshaft position sensor and interrupter ring would be ok but apparently that not necessarily the case so some more checks required there.
Don't know exactly when next I'll get a chance to look at the car again but it will be at least two or three weeks before I report back on it.

you will need the correct pressures on the high side & return side.
The injectors require a back pressure to assist in them opening & closing. very clever internally as they have chambers which allow fuel pressure to assist in their function.
If the back pressure is insufficient or more than 50bar pressure from the high pressure side the ECU will switch off the injectors.there are fuel pressure sensors on both high and low side .

check the cam & crank sensor with a scope and the timing of which can be checked accurately with 2 channels.
also look for any spiking as often a spiking starter motor will throw out the signal to the ECU for cam or crank sensor signal or the ECU will see a spike as a threat and switch a circuit off.
remember if scoping the injectors can be supplied with anything up to 200 volts !from capacitors in the ecu.
This is one of the biggest issue's in the automotive industry that many do not understand electronics and scoping, and the customer can literally pay 1000's in repairs for just a spike from something as silly as a starter. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Hi oldgeezer and friends. If the injectors are not getting a signal to open then the return or spill side surely can't build up the required pilot or internal pressure or can they? However I guess there must be a very small internal leakage from each injector that will eventually built the required back pressure required for the injectors to function?

I'm now thinking that the ECU MUST have to open the injectors to allow the build up of the injector internal pilot or spill-off line required back pressure?

Hopefully the 'Hantek' current clamp I've purchased with an oscilloscope with register the injector current pulses or not?

It sure will be a happy day if/when I ever get to the bottom of the problem , sure has been a learning curve for me.

Long live Morris Minors and the like

"If the injectors are not getting a signal to open then the return or spill side surely can't build up the required pilot or internal pressure or can they?
Nope, pressure is created by the pump. ECU switches the injectors if the fuel pressure parameters are met.
I suspect there is no signal. then you need to find out why. Check for fuel pressure sensors on both high and low side. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

My obd2 reader live data shows I'm getting from memory in excess of 4000psi on the fuel HP rail upstream of the injectors on cranking.
Where do 'I locate the low pressure sensor you mention?
I understood that there was only a back pressure maintaining valve in the injector spill return lines 'small round shiny cylinder shaped valve?
I'm pretty sure the injectors are not getting a signal and will check this with the scope when I'm next home. Many thanks again

This morning I checked the supply voltage to the crank position sensor and the earth ground wire continuity all ok, renewed the crank position sensor just in case it was dodgy.
Hooked up a current clamp and oscilloscope to one of injectors and as suspected no signal pulse appears to be present.
I guess I'll need to check the pulses from the crank sensor but I'm still a beginner with the oscilloscope. I would doubt if there is a problem with the crank positon attenuator ring as I very carefully handled this when I replaced the cam belt etc.
I'll go and check the power and ground to the cam position sensor this sensor has also been renewed.
Would a faulty (high reading) engine cooling water temperature sensor shut down the injection?
Would a faulty water temp sensor throw a fault code?
So far I haven't found the water temperature sensor, where is it hidden
Thanks, The Dog

Further, Noted from the live data on the OBD2 reader that the oil temperature was showing to be 543 degF looks like something not right there Cant see the position of the sensor. The Dog.