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Tubolove



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Florida, Daytona Beach
Posts: 131

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Nazca Sand
Engine motor mount replacement with heavy pics

Hello! My wife's LR2 had the motor mounts go bad and the LR Stealership wanted $1400.00 to replace them. There are 3 and are all very easy to replace with a small amount of mechanical ability and some basic tools. Total cost for all genuine LR parts was $285 from Amazon/eBay. The mounts began grumbling * rattling * vibrating when turning right and accelerating. It was the big, hidden, oil filled one holding up the front engine that was making all the racket but you could not see it as it resides underneath a plate that bolts to the top side of the engine. The others were worn but not noisy and all should probably be replaced simultaneously as they seem to wear at approximately the same rate.

Caveat emptor: I am a pharmacist by trade and NOT a professional mechanic. This post merely documents the way I chose to repair my own personal truck. Use this post at your own risk and liability.




These are the parts to be replaced.

I started by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and set the parking brake.



I removed this cover by pulling up firmly. It simply clips on.




Then I used a 13mm socket to remove the six skid plate bolts and the skid plate. If you've ever changed the oil then this is not foreign to you!



Then I used a block of wood to jack up on the oil pan just enough to barely begin to raise the engine so it wouldn't drop when I removed the plate holding the engine on top of the mount.




I used a 10mm socket to remove the screw retaining the coolant overflow tank and simply left it connected but mobile so I could move it as needed to access all the mount bolts without removing the tank.





Then I used a 15mm to remove the two bolts that secured the mount that limits horizontal front to back movement at the top of the engine.










This would be engine mount number 1!


This plate I removed by taking out the three 15mm bolts, one 15mm bolt, and the bolt attaching it to the mount was an 18mm bolt.




And here the mount is exposed and removed by taking out the three 15mm bolts.


Here's a side by side shot of new and old mount. No wonder it was rubbing and making a racket!!



Here you can see the paint & metal rub that was making all the noise:



Here's where the mount attaches to the body of the car:



Here is the new one installed. (Torque spec needed here)



Here, I went to bolt the upper engine mount plate back on, but it quickly became quite apparent just how worn the old mount was. I had to jack the engine up about 2 inches to get the plate to bolt back flat to the motor because at the old height it was contacting the mount before it would mate to the engine. After making sure the plate was contacting the motor at all points and was 100% flat I bolted the plate back onto the motor taking ABSOLUTE care not to cross thread the bolts that attach deep inside the head. There were three 15mm bolts and one 15mm nut. (Torque specs needed) Then I lowered the Jack and let the engine rest back on the mount. (Yes I reused a photo from earlier. Forgot to take a pic lol)




Also the motor had shifted towards the firewall about an inch so the hole for the mount didn't line up.



You can see here with a little persuasion with a wrench easily lines up the holes.



Just to make my life easier I decided to use a ratchet strap from a hole on the upper core support just behind the headlight attaching bolts to the factory engine installation loop attached where the only 15mm nut on the stud at the rear of the engine mount plate. This allowed me to ratchet the engine forward an inch to line things up hands free.



Once everything lined up I bolted the mount to the plate using the 18mm bolt. (Torque spec needed)

Next bolt the new upper mount back it with two 15mm bolts(torque spec needed). (I'm temporarily reusing the old one as I'm waiting on new one to arrive!)








Finally I reattached the overflow tank making sure that it mounted it to this bracket on the headlight end:



And attached at the firewall side with a 10mm bolt:



Finished up by popping the cover back on and bolting the skid plate back on using the six 13mm bolts.





A test drive revealed that the noise is completely eliminated though I've yet to do the lower and upper horizontal mounts. When they come in I'll install them and post up but they are very straightforward.

Also of note, this mount is oil filled and leaked oil all over the place when turned upside down.

Post #306518 10th Sep 2016 8:26 pm
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adywicaksono



Member Since: 05 Jul 2013
Location: dxb
Posts: 67

2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Very nice post, this noise is heard from engine side or from interior (inside the car) only?

Post #307152 19th Sep 2016 7:11 am
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Dave47



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1278

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Izmir Blue

Great write up Turbolove, well done Thumbs Up
Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Post #307155 19th Sep 2016 8:18 am
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Tubolove



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Florida, Daytona Beach
Posts: 131

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Nazca Sand

adywicaksono wrote:
Very nice post, this noise is heard from engine side or from interior (inside the car) only?


The noise first became obvious from the inside of the car as noticed by my wife. When you would turn right and accelerate it would make a rubbing noise like metal on metal vibrating. I initially thought it was a wheel bearing but generally you hear the noise on the opposite side of the car from the turn that you're making. This was on the right side of the car while making a right turn.

As the mount continued to deteriorate (over a 2 week period) it became audible from the outside of the car (I stood on the street corner and had my son make an aggressive right turn near me) and then it would make noise on initial start up first thing in the morning for a few seconds after start up while idling. Always audible from the inside. Sometimes audible from the outside. I was never able to duplicate the noise inside the engine compartment (likely because I could only be under the hood while it was idling). I even put the truck up on jackstands and had my son rev the engine while turning right to left when I was underneath listening. Could not duplicate the noise that way.

Post #307168 19th Sep 2016 12:31 pm
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Tubolove



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Florida, Daytona Beach
Posts: 131

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Nazca Sand

Dave47 wrote:
Great write up Turbolove, well done Thumbs Up
Dave

Thank you Thumbs Up

Post #307169 19th Sep 2016 12:34 pm
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adywicaksono



Member Since: 05 Jul 2013
Location: dxb
Posts: 67

2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Tubolove wrote:
adywicaksono wrote:
Very nice post, this noise is heard from engine side or from interior (inside the car) only?


The noise first became obvious from the inside of the car as noticed by my wife. When you would turn right and accelerate it would make a rubbing noise like metal on metal vibrating. I initially thought it was a wheel bearing but generally you hear the noise on the opposite side of the car from the turn that you're making. This was on the right side of the car while making a right turn.

As the mount continued to deteriorate (over a 2 week period) it became audible from the outside of the car (I stood on the street corner and had my son make an aggressive right turn near me) and then it would make noise on initial start up first thing in the morning for a few seconds after start up while idling. Always audible from the inside. Sometimes audible from the outside. I was never able to duplicate the noise inside the engine compartment (likely because I could only be under the hood while it was idling). I even put the truck up on jackstands and had my son rev the engine while turning right to left when I was underneath listening. Could not duplicate the noise that way.


Thanks for great post! I think I have similar issue, look at picture below

From front side:


From back side:



based on your story I could see, there is no gap anymore, correct me if I am wrong

What happened previously is I ignore below when this was broken for months/years

Click image to enlarge


Then I start heard the noise so I thought only that needs to be replaced, but I was wrong Very Happy.

Post #307172 19th Sep 2016 1:43 pm
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Tubolove



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Florida, Daytona Beach
Posts: 131

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Nazca Sand

Sure does look like it. The rubber in the new mount will stick up about an inch out of the metal whereas the old worn one was flush with the weight of the motor on it.

Post #307175 19th Sep 2016 2:05 pm
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iain cooper



Member Since: 27 Aug 2007
Location: north of Glasgow
Posts: 1989

Scotland 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Lago Grey

yes great post and pictures.

Iain

Post #307177 19th Sep 2016 2:19 pm
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Macallan



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: California
Posts: 28

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Baltic Blue

Absolutely fantastic post. Great write up and well thought out.

How many miles on your LR2? 2008 3.2L I6 Auto

Post #307190 19th Sep 2016 3:53 pm
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Tubolove



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Florida, Daytona Beach
Posts: 131

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Nazca Sand

We have 170,000 miles. Still runs like a brand-new truck! Only downside is we are having completely reasonable but regular component failures on a regular basis now. To me it's still cheaper than having to payment but the problem is this is my wife's truck and I don't like her to ever feel stranded. I may just keep it and trade my car and buy her a brand new car for her piece of mind.

Post #307191 19th Sep 2016 4:00 pm
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shiggsy



Member Since: 13 Jan 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 789

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Baltic Blue

Just want to point out that the pictures don't always get orientated correctly by default and some of these look like they are on their side, if you go into your gallery, you can rotate them correctly. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Post #307202 19th Sep 2016 6:19 pm
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sergio977



Member Since: 08 Jan 2016
Location: Italy
Posts: 128

Italy 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Orkney Grey

Tubolove, nice job! thank you for sharing Very Happy

Post #307233 20th Sep 2016 7:28 am
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adywicaksono



Member Since: 05 Jul 2013
Location: dxb
Posts: 67

2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Just to add into the library of this discussion

Before




After


Post #308055 29th Sep 2016 5:47 pm
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JGH99



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 193

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Stornoway Grey

Thanks Turbolove, just replaced my RH engine mount using your great write up. God those mounting bolts are tight.

Mine was nothing like as bad as yours but replacing it has all but stopped my tickover vibration and greatly reduced the typical (for 2.2 Diesel) vibration at 1500 - 1800 rpm.

Cheers, JGH99. Freelander 2 GS Stornoway Grey
Jan 2007 Bought 71,000 miles. Currently 149,300 miles.

Post #317847 19th Feb 2017 6:05 pm
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Dresdner



Member Since: 29 Feb 2016
Location: Dresden
Posts: 244

Germany 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hi JGH99,
Can you share the PN's? what i found is registered by seller as "for 3.2L only" and i am not sure if it is the same for both motors.

Post #323783 22nd May 2017 3:19 pm
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