Hi Fella's

Long time no speak!! been bit busy recently and somewhat distracted by mrs CWs new Mini Cooper! < Brilliant car, absolutely love it which means the FL isn't getting much of a look in these days!

So, the LR had is 6th 90k service the other day and when it came back I noticed the rear door actuator isn't working properly (it will move a couple of mm each time you press the button) so I'm guessing a new latch is in order .

Anyway, I had the door card off tonight having a look, and I think I am OK with everything, except moving the window regulator to get into the latch.

Can anyone who's done this point me in the direction of what to do with the glass and how easy it is to disconnect the regulator? I was thinking if I tape the glass up (using stuff that sticks like to a blanket) so it does not move, it should be possible to unbolt the regulator and unclip the glass whilst moving it around ..? but I don't want to try it until I'm a bit more confidant as I can see the glass falling out of the door!

Any ideas? any guidance? I've tried search and every thread I've seen ends with the same question but no answers!!!

Thanks!

PS. if the Doc is still around, the mini is a manual and the 6 speed getrag box is a gem  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Have a look though the link, if there is not what you need PM me an email address.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2l541mjy2ttzjx1/pRDTCGLKYM p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Mines booked in next week for a similar problem. Mines been playing up in the heat. The dealer said it sounded more like a lubrication issue than a faulty latch, i'll see what they come back with? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Cheers fellas

AD - the manual definitely helps - although it would be good to get any real world experience to guide me!

Steve - heat has definitely effected it. I tried to lube as much as I can last night but without removing the latch, there isn't much you can get to, Hence I figured if I'm gonna strip it I might as well have a new latch on standby given it is a known fault across the range.

I did saw a good write up over on disco3 ... I'm thinking there isn't going to be much difference between the two so I might use this as guide.. Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Mines just out of warranty, went armed with a TSB for hopefully a bit of goodwill. Will see what happens on Tuesday. Service guy said the would take the card off and lube everywhere. He also said latch was 50 quid and about half hour to fit so will see what happens. They said latches were not that common so I will see what happens on Tuesday. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

I did a write up on a D3 rear door latch replacement, might be helpful: http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/Rear_Door_Latch_Replacement

hi,

look at my gallery - did this few weeks ago.The best way to remove the glass from the regulator is to remove the speaker and unclip the glass from the regulator.

Regards M.

Excellent - thanks...

So the glass easily clips out then? Is there anything else I should watch for? Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

maybe this will help
http://www.freel2.com/forum/post158217.html#158217.

Cheers folks! So, I got myself a nearly new latch from a MY2012 Freelander of an internet breaker delivered for £35 and set about swapping it out on Sunday.. All I can say is if anyone is thinking of doing this – do it! It was very straight forward and took me less than an hour, which included 10 minutes looking for the right socket!

With Martin’s Disco guide and Michal and Johnny’s pictures for reference I had everything I needed!

Some general tips I picked up along the way….

To remove the silver door handle cover on the inside of the door car I found prising the plastic from the bottom was most conducive to lifting the cover without snapping things

The connector for the tweeter is underneath and so not that visible – if you feel around there is a wire that disconnects

There are small locating tabs that’s stops you from putting the speaker in upside down, I used some needle nose pliers to just pinch these clips to release the speaker without forcing it.

You can clearly see the white clip on the window reg through the speaker hole, if you drop the window by a few inches you can easily get your hand into the door (in front of the glass between the outer skin) and lever the white clip with your fingers which will allow you to free the glass and lift it up. I used duct tape to hold it in place

You need to remove the door control mod from the window reg before removing the window reg – it is held in with 3 screws. I left it plugged in just in case it caused any havoc with the CCM. It also allowed me to test the lock whist the door was a part.

I removed the door handle mechanism from the inside of the door skin so I could get to the control cable – this is easily done by removing the plastic handle and then removing the 8mm bolt from the outside of the door and the t25 torks from the inside of the door. Careful not to lose the little plastic ‘nut’ from the outside of the door.

The grommet for the interior handle control cable looks like it is the wrong way round – don’t worry this is correct!

Don’t forget to tighten the door hand torks before refitting the regulator (like I did!)

When fitting the door panel, locate the tips of the panel clips into the holes first and then push, else you may bend them which usually needs a replacement

Jobs a gooden!  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Any instructions to fix central locking system? I have noticed front right and rear left black locking button wont move correctly. The cable is some how jammed or sticky. Do i have to remove the locknest to check the locking cable? I have removed thw covers and tryed to follow the cable but it went so deep and i didnt want to check further because of no instructiona
Kindly jonny from finlane

both my rear door locks have failed as well, it looks to me as if this could be quite a common fault.

roly

This is how mine manifested itself and it turned out robe the latch. The latch is a one piece unit that attaches inside the door and contains the little motors for both the central locking and the dead locks. Best fix is to swap the latch as described earlier in this thread... It's a fairly simple job once you get your head around it.

For what It is worth you can try and lube the cable with a bit of silicon spray but to be honest most of the mechanism is sealed in the latch so it it doesn't really do much. Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Oh and I gather it is a fairly common thing. It's the same part on discos and I think the RRS and they also suffer Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Hi guys, great info by the way. I realise that this was posted in August and it's now January but just wanted to ask you to cast your minds back if I may. I added a bit more difficulty to this task as I attempted it whilst on crutches and have rather large hands which aren't ideal for close work.

So I got as far as the door handle section and removed the torx bolt and outer handle etc. but couldn't see how the handle mechanism came off inside the door. After re-reading the post's and looking at the photos in the calm of the house it looks like I failed to pull out the oblong plastic plug on the outside of the door handle. I just wanted to check that's all I was missing as I have since put it all back together and hobbled inside for the night. I don't want to try again and run into the same problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.