Hi,

Please can someone help me before I run out of money and patience and sell my 2007 HSE...
My FL2 had been jolting and dropping out of cruise mode when under load. Then one day it drop into limp mode. I took it to my LR dealership and they carried out primary fault diagnostics and reset the software and all the faults cleared and they couldn't find any during the subsequent road test. I was given it back but within 3 days it had gone back into limp mode. £140
Back into the dealership secondary diagnostic checks carried out 2 faults for the turbo overboost found. garage checked turbo inlet pipe, turbo compressor vanes, bearings and spindle, all ok. Electrical connections to turbo checked all good and clean. smoke test carried out on induction hose, no leaks found. double checked pipes and hose clips all ok. Found LTB00237 relating to P0234 overboost concern. therefore a new software download was carried out, as per service bulliten. road tested vehicle ok. but the turbo now makes a wheeze on over run/boost, especially noticeable when car is switched off. The garage suspect the variable vanes on turbo are sticking. Car was given back to me to monitor. cost me £180 told a new turbo would be £1400 minimum.
Car lasted 2 days back into limp mode.
Thought I'd get a 2nd oppinion before shelling out £1400 so went to local Independant LR garage - faults diagnosed were P2562-62, Turbo boost control position sensor. time out. P0692-12 Fan control circuit high. P0234-00 Turbo/supercharger overboost condition. P02E8-00 Diesel intake air flow Position sensor.
The garage cleared the faults and the car remained in Limp mode. So they advised a new air mass sensor. Replaced the air mass sensor car then drove normally but still had turbo wheeze. £162.67 They said that it was highly unlikely that a new turbo was required because they are a LR only item and when they enquired about getting one LR said they have sold hardly any so were they sure it was a turbo as the turbos don't fail.
Lasted 3 days went into Limp mode tonight
Really fed up now.... £480 spent still got problem and looks like I'll have to spend another £1400...

Any help would be much appreciated....
Should I sell it once I eventually get it fixed and buy something more reliable????

Last edited by Irma on 24th Jun 2012 9:37 am. Edited 2 times in total

I doubt the turbo itself is at fault here. Broken turbos do not cause overnoost, quite the contrary!

It is almost certainly a sensor or boost control valve at fault. Sadly i dont know of a true LR specialist, but there must be somebody out there, preferably somebody who understands mapping and tuning because they are the kind of people who can find and fix these kinds of faults. Main dealers tend to be hopeless when things get too complex. Maybe somebody here has a contact at LR HQ? (Coming) 2016 RR Evoque td4 180 HSE Dynamc
(Going) 2013 TD4 GS Auto - Santorini Black with black leather. Cold Climate, UK Lighting & Armrest Packs. Privacy Glass. LR Rubber Mats. Full size spare.
60 000 miles averaging 35mpg

(Gone) 2010 TD4 Manual GS - Stornoway Grey. Sold at 3yrs old & 64k miles. Final average consumption 39.2mpg.

Do you or have you had it chipped??

Hi,

I had DTUK tuning box on it for fuel economy but as the rear diff was playing up and the car was back and forth to the dealership 3 times last year (ended up replacing the rear diff!)I removed it. It had been off the car for about 9 months before the problems started. I should also mention that the car has done 156,000miles.

Should I try putting it back on?

Thanks

Anyone got any ideas? Should I take it to a specific engine tuning company to solve the problem? If so can anyone recommend one in Scotland?

Sponsors Strathern Engineering

Ive heard of these kind of problems before. Some one i know had similar symtoms as you on a v6 3ltr merk.turns out the ecu was faulty causing a wide selection of problems and fault codes to be stored. He had it replaced and all has been fine ever since.

Last edited by superspark on 26th Jun 2012 6:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

superspark wrote:

Ive heard of these kind of problems before. Some one i know had similar symtons as you on a v6 3ltr merk.turns out the ecu was faulty causing a wide selections of problems and fault codes to be stored. He had it replaced and all has been fine ever since.

Irma wrote:

Hi,

I had DTUK tuning box on it for fuel economy but as the rear diff was playing up and the car was back and forth to the dealership 3 times last year (ended up replacing the rear diff!)I removed it. It had been off the car for about 9 months before the problems started. I should also mention that the car has done 156,000miles.

Should I try putting it back on?

Coincidentally I have the same tuning box AND mileage of 156K

I had similar problems with the same error messages and limp mode. This happened twice and on both ocasions I reset the errors with my iPhone and carried on. It hasn't happened since and I have even removed and replaced the tuning box (I missed the economy) to try and make it fail. I suspect that the boost limit is set a bit too close for comfort so any small overboost and you start limping  Cheers,
Raz
FL1 TD4 GS Auto 2001 Silver
FL2 TD4 Auto 2007 Black
FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2012 Fuji White

Thanks all for your advice...

"I reset the errors with my iPhone" - is this a P take or am I missing out on something...?

I might try putting the tuning box back on and put it back to the factory setting....

Irma wrote:

Thanks all for your advice...

"I reset the errors with my iPhone" - is this a P take or am I missing out on something...?

No no - If you search the bay for 'OBD2 Diagnostic Interface WiFi WLAN For iPhone' or similar you will find quite a few. Very cheap bit of kit but very useful when you just want to reset the error codes instead of paying a dealer to do it.  Cheers,
Raz
FL1 TD4 GS Auto 2001 Silver
FL2 TD4 Auto 2007 Black
FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2012 Fuji White

Strathearn Engineering - without a doubt. Speak to Jonathan, and ask him if Mike could take a look.

I just had my D3's Turbo replaced 2 months ago at Strathearn. The actuator for the variable vanes was over-reaching and not returning. This/caused massive over boost, and a serious limp home fault.

The symptoms I had lasted for about a year - car locking into reduced power mode if Turbo asked to over boost - e.g. towing and accelerating uphill. If you know the new Dalkeith bypass on the A68, you know the kind of hill I mean.

The fault codes indicated the Turbo actuator had failed, but once it was replaced it was clear the servo motor was allowing it to over-reach and apply full Turbo over boost from tick over. Very fast - for 200 yards

The whole job was £1400, and the D3 turbo is much more difficult to reach than the FL2. You might be lucky and get their old Defender 90 courtesy car .
.
....if you wait for it to go wrong , it's sure to oblige.

Turbos can be re-manufactured/rebuild/recondition with a much smaller price.
The only thing that you need to do is, after taking the turbo out and dismantle it, to clean and reshape in a flat manner the disk that moves the vanes of the variable geometry. This disk, during time, is clogged with soot and starts to move harder and harder.
This is generated by the granny style of driving. I've said many times: a diesel must be driven like it was stolen.
In this way the actuator/disk/vanes move a lot, because the ECU needs to reduce the intake pressure when it's too high. Therefore a turbo, when driven on boost, is much less prone to deposits and sticking.




Here in Romania, this kind of rebuild is about 200 GBP (converted from our currency).

Quote:

This is generated by the granny style of driving. I've said many times: a diesel must be driven like it was stolen.

Not as easy to do in this country Alex, too many cars and not enough roads, For most of us getting above 50mph it's like heaven. Then there is a 'speed camera' around every corner, I try but they keep giving me points on my licence

How are the roads in your country and the speed limits/police cameras .

I didn't mean to say to overspeed.
But reaching 30 mph (or 55, as appropriate) can be done slowly or quickly.
The later is the better.
Once you reach the target speed, you can let it be and maintain that speed.

As per your question, 90% are OK and 30/55/80 mph.