Hi Guys,
My front discs and pads will need to be changed in the next few months and i intend to do this myself.

Reading through the 'topix guide' it states to change the 'Fixed carrier retaining bolts' and tighten to 200 Nm.

So two quick questions - has anyones else changed these bolts whilst renewing the discs and pads and are the bolts expensive?

Thanks for any pointers,

My mate didn't replace them and his a mechanic

Thanks

Neither I. Or any other mechanics I know.

But...
The "book" says that if some bolts are tightened to a greater torque or they are used under greater stress or temperatures, they must be replaced. Unfortunatelly, at the wheel all of these conditions are present.

Does anyone know if they are expensive? If i have to go to the dealer for the discs and pads i may aswell buy four new ones...?

When I asked my dealer they said they did not carry the bolts and nobody in the workshop had ever asked for any. I re-used the old bolts and torqued them up to 200nm using Loctite. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Agreed. Torque to correct setting after applying Loctite to the threads. 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Why new disc's?
Have you measured the thickness and run out? Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

I change all my discs and pads (also the handbrake shoes) a while back. As others have said, just use a drop of thread locking compound when tightening the caliper bolts and they will be fine. You only need to replace the bolts if any damage is evident, which is very rare. Cheers,
Raz
FL1 TD4 GS Auto 2001 Silver
FL2 TD4 Auto 2007 Black
FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2012 Fuji White

Cheers Guys

From what I've know, the bolts should be changed not because they can get loose, but because of the fatigue that appears during elongation that appear during strong tighten up, dilatation/contraction during heating up/cooling down and the functional stress. All these contribute to a bigger probability of microfisures during time and worse, total failure through snapping.
As the brakes, the same in the case of engine head bolts. But neither there I haven't seen to many people changing them...

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 28th May 2012 6:59 pm. Edited 2 times in total

It will always state, renew bolts but then they have to cover them selves. I replaced all discs and pads on mine a while ago and up loaded pics to my gallery if you want to have a look, its fairly easy to do and wont take you long.

when I bought new pads (LR original part - admittedly from ebay) new bolts came with the pads - they were in the box with the pads themselves. They had blue locking compound already applied. Like you I rang LR and asked if they sold the bolts separately - and they do but have to order them in - few pence each. They should come with the pad set, however.

I think the bolts you are referring to are the small bolts which hold the calliper to the anchor plate and yes they do come with a new set of pads. However, the bolts we are talking about in this thread are the ones which fix the anchor plate to the hub. Hope this makes sense! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Oh - I see. In which case, didn't replce them either - just loctite.