Got round to doing my rear brakes today. Unfortunately, the sliders were seized (3 out of 4) and one of them sheared in the caliper carrier when i tried to remove it.

Tried all manner of map gas, mig welder etc byt couldnt shift what was left... new rear carrier now ordered











 2014 Metropolis in Loire Blue

2014 TD4 XS in Loire Blue (Sold)

2007 HSE in Black (Now gone!)

Crikey, has it been dipped in the sea launching boats etc? Jules

Don't think I'd have been brave enough to show pics like that if it had been mine.

When was it's last MOT? (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

If it was me I would have no idea what it looked like and rely on the mot and service etc to fix what is needed. Like when I just had all the drive train oils etc done, they said that the rear diff oil looked a bit manky so they would do it again in the summer to see if it’s changed. No idea what manky looks like as did not see it.

jules wrote:

Crikey, has it been dipped in the sea launching boats etc?

Badger51 wrote:

Don't think I'd have been brave enough to show pics like that if it had been mine.

When was it's last MOT?

Ill not get my nearside rear carrier until tuesday i imagine, but in the meantime, heres the refurbished offside rear brakes... very satisfying!
 2014 Metropolis in Loire Blue

2014 TD4 XS in Loire Blue (Sold)

2007 HSE in Black (Now gone!)

Quote:

Winslet wrote:

Hi

Just completed the above and I thought I'd bring together the procedure into one post to share my experience - some of the below is posted elsewhere, but I still had some unanswered questions.

For MY2013 cars the rear discs and pads are different from earlier cars, and some online parts retailers list the incorrect part numbers - the correct number for the discs is LR039935 and pads LR043285.

First you need to put the electronic parking brake/EPB into service mode.

With the front wheels chocked and the car in park, turn the ignition on without starting the engine (foot off the clutch or brake pedal depending on whether manual or automatic) then:

1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the release/down position

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Whilst still holding the parking brake switch, press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open position.

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on again immediately whilst still pushing on the parking brake button and with your foot fully on the accelerator pedal.

6. You will hear the brake motors activate for a while. An audible noise will confirm service mode, it will also be displayed on the dashboard as below:



Switch the ignition off.

The wheel can then be removed and the calliper unbolted - this needs 13 and 15mm spanners - the 15mm one holds the sliding bolt from turning and the 13mm undoes the bolt holding the calliper on - one at the top and one at the bottom. The calliper can then be slid out and moved to the side.



The pads can then be removed along with the clips - silver one at the top and gold at the bottom.

To remove the disc, the calliper carrier needs unbolting - two 15mm bolts at the rear and the disc can then be taken off using a T45 Torx bit.



It takes about 15 minutes to get to this point, but to do a more thorough job I then cleaned up the calliper, carrier, hub, wheel arches, suspension and wheel whilst I had access...

New disc on, using a smear of copper grease on mating surfaces:



In good old Haynes manual style, reassembly is the reverse of removal, with the exception of retracting the piston to accept the new pads. The piston just needs to be pushed back - it doesn't need winding or turning or any special tool. I temporarily remounted it to aid handling and used a small block of wood and a long screwdriver to gently lever/push it back.

Old:



New:



Job done!

Apologies for the photos swapping from driver to passenger side - I took various photos during the process. The procedure the same for both sides!

To take the EPB out of service mode:

1. Once more with the ignition on but engine not started, lift and hold the parking brake switch in the apply/on position

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Whilst still lifting the parking brake switch, press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open position

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on again immediately whilst still pushing on the parking brake button and with your foot fully on the accelerator pedal.

The brake motors will re-engage.

I have to say I found the job much easier than on the earlier models - no issues with the disc/drum removal or binding handbrake shoes/moving parts. The EPB system makes it much simpler and straightforward.

I hope the above helps anyone looking at doing this job themselves.

Hi Great write up what make of discs did you choose LR, Blueprint, Juratek. bosch, Britpart, I'm asking because a seller today delivered some Quinton Hazell rear discs as soon as the box was opened i knew they were for the earlier model with brake shoes you can tell by the extra hole for adjusting the brake shoes.

They stated even though i asked that they were correct.
1

States 2014 but clearly not.
2

3

Pads.
4

5

Waiting on their reply, i will not need to send them back has they will fit my 2007 i have also.

Ok so ordered another set of rear brake discs Borg & Beck this time from a different seller they managed to get them right.
1

Will be fitting them over the next few days maybe boxing day, to work of the crimbo dinner.
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3

4


Today i gave them a couple of extra coats of paint.
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Merry Christmas.

Ok so after adding another couple of coats of paint to the rear discs, which were allowed to dry for a couple of days, i decided to change the rear discs & pads on Boxing day.

Car was chocked at the front.
1

2

Front locking nuts removed.
3

The rest of the wheel nuts undone/cracked open, so when the car was raised it would be easy to take the wheel off.
4

The back of the FL2 was then jacked up to accept axle stands.
5

6

Before jacking it fully up and taking the wheels off i put the EPB into maintenance mode, following the above posts on how to do it.
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The FL2 was then jacked up to the level where axle stands could be used.
9

The trolley jack was also still left in place.
10

The axle stands where put on the jacking points either side of the FL.
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12

Next with the wheels off the ground it was time to remove the wheels.
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The Electronic Parking Brake mechanism.
16

These are the pads on the car before changing them and the discs.
17

I suspect a few owners would not have changed these pads.
18

I wanted to start from scratch so i know the jobs have been done, these are jobs i would do with any car i purchased.

The next job was to undo the Torx holding the disc to the hub.
19

You may have to wedge the disc but i just did a quick snap turn and the torx screw cracked loose, (lucky maybe)
20

you will need to do this both sides either at the same time or after you have done one side first.
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Put the torx screw in a safe place.
23

Next lift the bonnet and loosen & remove the brake reservoir cap, to check the level.
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25

If it's up to the max line like mine was then you will need to pull some out with a syringe, you could do this now or wait until you have to push back the brake piston to help fit the new pads which will be thicker being new, that is if you are changing them and the discs.

The next job is to undo and remove the sliding pin bolts, you will need 15mm open end spanner, and a 13mm ratchet ring spanner, / or socket.
26

If you use a ring spanner it will only allow you to undo it to a point then it will snag on the EPB mechanism, so 13mm long socket would be best.
27

The bottom bolts you can use the ratchet and open end spanners.
28

Have a strap, hook or bungie ready to hold the caliper out of the way once removed.
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Remove the bolts top and bottom.
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Hang the Caliper/EPB out of the way.
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35

You can now remove the old pads.
36

you can see these are quite mucky and dirty.
37

Removed from the carrier.
38

Next to the new pads, i have two sets of news pads.
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TRW & Landrover trw ones.
40

Note the ones taken off & the Landrover trw ones have the leading edge chaffered, the TRW ones are not.
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Ok so next job is to remove the carrier, 15mm good six sided socket, used with a long ratchet if you have one, if not then use an extension bar.
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Once the bolts has been cracked you can use a smaller socket with a 15mm socket.
45

Once loosened remove the bolts.
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47

The Caliper carrier can now be removed from the disc.
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The carrier will need cleaning up unless you are fitting new ones.
49

The disc is now ready to be removed, it may slide off or it may need a little help.
50

Tap it with an hammer, it should dislodge the disc if it is struck.
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Once loose it will slide off.
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The back plate may need cleaning up mine did.
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Scrape & wire brush the back disc, which i did and used some rust preventer come spring i will replace the back plates.
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The rest of the rear brake discs & pads fitting can be found here below.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/post438070.html#438070

Last edited by Arctic on 1st Jan 2024 1:53 am. Edited 1 time in total

The back plates (aka mud shields) seem to quite hard to find these days (a bit like the rear ARB). It took a lot of searching to to find front ones for mine. Eventually got one from Craddocks and the other from ebay. Jules