Ah. was confusing yours with the OPs 🫢
Coincidentally the old "Gearbox fault traction reduced" has reared its head again with mine. Hopefully it will just be haldex oil change and filter to sort it out, it was last time.
I'll not muddy the waters on this thread by posting anymore about it! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Quote:

Ah. was confusing yours with the OPs 🫢
Coincidentally the old "Gearbox fault traction reduced" has reared its head again with mine. Hopefully it will just be haldex oil change and filter to sort it out, it was last time.
I'll not muddy the waters on this thread by posting anymore about it!

Hi Bob.
Please do muddy the waters, i was referring to myself adding to this thread about my Haldex problems, hopefully we can follow the thread easy enough if not then ask as i did

Did you remove your Haldex last time to get it sorted, if it was not the fact i only have to wait 51/2 weeks to have mine looked at by Bell Engineering it would be coming off, i may try again to remove the pump and filter before the.

Yes I removed the haldex to do it. On the later gen 4 haldex on the freelander 2 they have a large flange where the propshaft connects to the diff. This prevents removal of the pump so the only option is to take the propshaft off then remove the entire haldex unit then take the flange off to allow the pump to come out. It's actually not too bad a job, just frustrating that you have to do that for something so simple. The fact that LR do not include a drain plug means that this way all the oil will drain too. Its simple to change the main filter while it's out as well. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Double post deleted. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Last edited by Bobupndown on 28th Nov 2023 7:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I had the extra large flange that prevents the pump from being taken out in situ.

When I was last at Bell Eng. they swapped the flange for the smaller one FOC as "it makes no discernible difference" and makes future servicing easier.

I can concur that the changing to the smaller flange is undetectable from inside the car. Jules

I imagine the only reason it changed to the larger flange was because that was how Haldex Traction began supplying the Gen 4 to JLR. Jules

Bobupndown wrote:

Yes I removed the haldex to do it. On the later gen 4 haldex on the freelander 2 they have a large flange where the propshaft connects to the diff. This prevents removal of the pump so the only option is to take the propshaft off then remove the entire haldex unit then take the flange off to allow the pump to come out. It's actually not too bad a job, just frustrating that you have to do that for something so simple. The fact that LR do not include a drain plug means that this way all the oil will drain too. Its simple to change the main filter while it's out as well.

Quote:

I'll be doing mine next week. Can take photos as I do so if anyone is interested.

Hi Bob.
yes please do take photos if you have time, they would be great, the old saying photos say a thousand words, i did notice on my FL(Orkney grey) that the large flange had been ground a little on the edge maybe to help remove the pump.
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It's supposed to be this plunger that gives the trouble so i have read.
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Note first photo shows the old pump this pic below shows new pump, a month later.

I removed my ECU & N373 valve it was sent off to Matthew at Auto Fault Finder, he tested the valve it was fine, he also did the scrabble fix.

Two day turn round the ECU & valve landed back home, fitted and upon my first drive the grabbing & scrabbling is not there, another for more drives to be sure was suggested by Matt.

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I also bought some Haldex oil from him, new filter which is the correct one not Chinese copy.

Hi Artic, had mine ' fixed' by Bell, and also thought strange no warranty and now got my slipping noise back already.  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

Quote:

Hi Artic, had mine ' fixed' by Bell, and also thought strange no warranty and now got my slipping noise back already. Censored

Diolch Artic, sorry for delay in reply but not on here much due to some health stuff again but will certainly get that ECU unplugged and try the test.

My strange squealing noise is not something I would regard as the same haldex noise I had last time though and definitely seems left hand side of car but only after car is warm after driving for a bit and sometimes pulling away too quickly.

Nadolig Llawen [/i] If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

Got around to solving (hopefully) my issue. Got a refurbished PTU (350 EUR), sleeve (Britpart, 160 EUR), corteco seals and fluids for manual gearbox and PTU (80 EUR).

Step by step on how to remove the PTU and angle sleeve:

1) Remove right hand side wheel
2) Remove brake caliper, hang it in the spring using hook or whatever else
3) remove ABS sensor
4) Remove tie rod
5) use copper/aluminum stick and try to hammer on cv axle, just to get it moving
6) Remove 3 bolts holding lower wishbone of car (you can also leave the wishbone in, and just remove the ball joint from steering knuckle, but i find removing wishbone easier)
7) undo the bolt behind the shock absorber, spread the steering knuckle, take out the cv axle, remove it from strut and take the whole steering knuckle-wishbone part out
Remove lower engine mount
9) Remove clamp holding in the cv axle middle bearing
10) remove the cv axle with a sharp pull
11) Remove the cv axle mount that mounts to engine
12) Undo propshaft bolts, disconnect propshaft from PTU
13) Undo PTU bolts, disconnect the breather hose on the top of PTU, remove PTU
14) now you can see the angle sleeve and fun can begin. They come off quite easily on automatic gearboxes, hell on manuals. I tried some vicegrips to no avail, then used angle grinder and dremel to cut 3 deep grooves 120 degrees apart so that a 3leg pulley would fit.
15) put 38mm socket or (in my case) brake caliper piston in the old sleeve, so that you would have something to push against
16) do your best to get the sleeve out. Took me 3 hours - heating with blowtorch, dealing with pulley. Eventually i took a 1,2m long breakers bar, pulled with both hands, and when i felt that something is going to break, i started hammering the sleeve. Presto, it started to move milimeter by milimeter.
17) to be continued. I still havent put it all together.

EDIT : You do not have to remove the intercooler-turbochager pipe. I just disconnected one end from turbo and it gave me enough room to remove the PTU.

Ok, finished the PTU and sleeve replacement. For putting things together, everything was pretty much the reverse order as for removing the PTU. Two pieces of advice:

1) I wrote that I removed steering knuckle and lower wishbone as one piece, but this was a mistake. You simply cannot put it back as one piece. If you attach the strut first, you cannot install the wishbone, if you install the wishbone first, you cannot attach the strut. Therefore, you have to remove the wishbone ball joint from steering knuckle.

2) My replacement PTU came from Volvo (same part number though), and instead of having a place to connect breather pipe, it had a built-in breather valve, so I just blanked the breather pipe.

Is the breather valve to stop water ingress as the PTU will probably be lower than the open end of the breather pipe which would be high enough to wade safely?

Double post