Cheers. Got it.

Ive done all the service items on mine, well in advance of the 10 year schedule. Not prepared to pay £1000 to basically change a lot of oils, waterpump and a belt. Timing belt wasn't too bad but the crankshaft pulley bolt was tight! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Florence wrote:

I shall ring round and get some quotes for the timing belt and aux drive belt (I was sort of looking forward to doing the drive belt myself!).

Give Ross a call at www.glenrands.co.uk up nr Liphook. Worth the trip. I've used a lot of specialists in Hampshire/Sussex over the last 10 years! Tell them DrRob sent you. Loan cars too.

 * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* GONE.2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Rocket ship. 33mpg.
* Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

as bobupndown said crankshaft bolt is tight put some heat into it to soften the locking agent before undoing it , if you do the belt yourself .  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Thanks for all the tips.

One outsanding Q remains re coolant change:
I can't find any clues anywhere online about what size spanner I need for the engine block drain. I gather this is essential to remve to get full drainage for the 10 year coolant change. I can't even find for sure whether it is a standard heaxgonal bolt head or a recessed hexagonal "allen" key or square head type. Someone on here must have drained the engibe block before and knows what spanner I need. Anyone??

TIA

ps: planning on doing final drive oil change1st as thi sounds easiest!

I've seen a vid of coolant flush and refill witout the fiddle of accessing and removing the engine block drain plug.

Look up "Change Coolant 09 Land Rover LR2" on youtube.

The guy drained radiator, refilled with water, ran up to operating temp (with cabin heater on) and repeated 3 times until clear colourless water coming out. Then refilled with ready mixed antifreeze.

One comment asked about final concentration of coolant, as only the radiator contents are drained each time. The remainder (in engine block, hoses and cabin heater) will be mostly water after several flush-drain cycles. There was no response from the vid maker.

It occurs to me that the principleis sound, but ONLY if the volume drained from the radiator after final water flush is AT LEAST half the total circulating volume. As long as that is the case, a simple calculation should allow replacement with concentrated red antifreeze to result in desired final 50:50 concentration. If rad vol less than half total volume, it would be possible eventually to achieve 50:50 by repeat draining and topping up with consentrate, but wasteful on antifreeze, which is both expensive and toxic.

To this end, has anyone ever measured the volume drained from a radiator? I'm happy to try this method if rad vol somewhere close to 3 Litres (half of total vol).

Thanks

If your going to have the cambelt done that would be a good time to have new antifreeze put in as it will have to be drained as the water pump would/should be done at the same time, but if your just draining the rad I would not flush with water as any left in will obviously dilute new anti freeze going in, therefore best to refill with neat new anti freeze.

Alternatively why not just test the coolant already in there by removing some into a small container and putting it in the freezer overnight, if it don't freeze then you know it OK. That's what I do on all my Vehicles. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

As above at least you know it will be ok down to minus 18 Degrees , centigrade . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Very practical tips (re coolant).
The freezer trickis good, but I thought it was the "anti-corrosion" properties of coolant which wane with time....?

If the coolant is a nice clean pink colour then the corrosion inhibitors are still working, if the coolant is discoloured or rusty (though should not be rusty in a FL2 as it all ally) then it needs changing as the inhibitors have broken down. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.