Evening all
Freelander 2 TD4 2007

PROBLEM: On hard acceleration I get a noise which I can only describe in one of two ways. It sounds like an old VW Beetle or Camper when they accelerate - or - a bit like the noise made when kids put cards in their bike spokes. If you can understand what I mean. It doesn't do it on gentle acceleration, just when I put my foot down harder.
There's no loss in power or performance. It still runs well. No warning lights.

I do have the following fault codes showing, all to do with Diesel Air Intake:
P02E1, P02E3 and P02E9.
Not sure if they are part of this issue or coincidental. I think these are to do mainly with the throttle body. I have no engine warning lights showing.

BACKGROUND: I've recently replaced the exhaust camshaft which had broken stopping the HP Fuel Pump from functioning. To do this I had to take quite a lot of parts off. The current problem has developed since I did that job but it wasn't instantaneous. It's developed over time.

I've browsed through several other threads but none seem to be that same as this problem.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

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Could it be an exhaust leak? That often presents as a ticking sort of sound. If it's getting worse under load and over time that would make some sense.
My second choice would be a boost leak, either a loose clamp or a split pipe.

Hi
I'm actually starting to think it might be leaking injectors. There's some wetness around two of them. One of them I can see slight bubbling when the engine is running. I think the noise may be being amplified by the plastic engine cover.
I tried to take one out but it's jammed in so I'll have to get a removal tool as I don't want to risk damaging it.
I did have the injectors out when I did the camshaft and I gave the chambers a good clean out with an appropriate tool. Obviously, I may not have done a thorough enough job!
I'll update once I've done it.

Did you replace the copper washers with genuine LR parts? Aftermarket washers seem to be too hard, so don't seal correctly. Also the bolts are throwaway parts, as they stretch when torqued. Subsequent torque on them can't generate the same clamping force as a new bolt. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I did replace the washers and I believe they were genuine ones. I didn't change the clamp bolts so I'll look at getting some of them.
Cheers

Just an update on this.
I tried ordering injector clamp bolts from a couple of places but the orders got cancelled due to none in stock. I tried reseating the injectors using new washers and thoroughly cleaning everything including the bolt holes, ended up with fuel peeing out of two injectors.
The way I've ended up solving this for now to get me on the road is using washers between the bolt head and clamp. I tried normal flat washers but they just crushed and made only a bit of difference. So we tried thicker spring washers which seems to have done the trick........for now! I also think the plastic collars on the injectors were sitting too high up on the injector which I think made them less stable in the injector chamber.
So SEEMS to be sorted for now. Not ideal but it's a workaround until I can find the proper bolts. Mine are roundhead bolts with a hex Allan key recess. A lot of the ones I found when searching were hexhead bolts with a round lip on them. I will keep searching.
Cheers

Driven it a couple of times and it seems to be sealing ok now. And the original noise on acceleration has gone so it was down to that.
Engine covers (should call them engine masks!) have a lot to answer for. They can mask any number of sins from a casual glance! 😁