Hi,
Currently getting issues with my dpf sensor on my 2014 SD4 Dynamic , started by getting the dreaded “reduced performance with red triangle”
Initially after reading on here, and the initial code, suspected the little dpf tubes, one looked like it was split, so both changed out.
Fault reappearance not long after, one garage thought genuine dpf blockage, glad to say that doesn’t appear to be the case.
Fault code was p244a “dpf pressure too low” at this point and during initial fault.
Changed dpf dp sensor for Amazon Prime special - car struggled to start, returned
Fault code was both p244a and red triangle, amber triangle, MIL,
Changed for local motor factor one, start now fine, was getting a straight short by the look of it on signal line to reference voltage (5v on my icarsoft live data) and a code that reflected the same (lost the pic of exact code)
Changed for eBay “ford” Oem sensor - bit better, intermittent and managed to get through some dpf regen cycles which is good. Fault code was “p2456” dpf sensor circuit intermittent/erratic. No red triangle. Amber triangle. No MIL light. Sensor voltage at 0.92v on live data
Bought 2nd hand genuine JLR sensor, and the short dpf sensor harness.
Changed sensor only, fault as above, no worse or better. Live data (several weeks later after a trip offshore) shows 0.35v on live data.
Changed harness, fault worse, red triangle, amber triangle, P244A.
Checked harness I took off with a fluke. Individual continuity ok, O/C between wires as you would expect, so no evidence of shorting.
Car still too warm for removing the “new” harness for same check, and fitting the other harness back on.
Ironically flew through MOT today emissions were fine. - literally a £54 MOT this year.
Garage checked all intercooler hoses for me as a favour - all in very good condition.
Had the fuel filter replaced last month on service.
Poor wife is at her wits end, it keeps happening on pulling out. Roundabouts etc, it’s ridiculous that this software puts it in limp mode, it should be a MIL at most, it’s dangerous.
Can’t afford to be paying out £50+ an hour for someone to keep trying.
My thoughts-
1) try test the next harness back, which I think then joins up with the exhaust temp sensor, which is working fine. Try to buy a spare - anyone know a part number
2) consider myself the unluckiest person ever, still assume it’s faulty sensors, get my wallet out and hand over £200 to Land Rover for a new one at the dealers
3) find out what size resistor to put a fixed value on the sensor, and fit either at the input to the ecu or at each harness
4) admit defeat, reset, stick in the auctions and give the problem to some poor other .
Any thoughts guys?
Honestly, apart from my door locks starting to fail, it’s been great for the last 2 years, if it was my 2nd car could tinker forever but my wife took this as the main car when we were let down constantly trying to lease a new car for her post Covid. She spends weeks at a time with the kids and her mum, not fair on her as you can imagine.

(Repair Manual)
Symptom
'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Torque derate, regeneration locked out (DTC P244A16 also logged)

Cause
Particulate filter differential pressure below limit

Action
Clear DTC, cycle ignition status from ON to OFF (power down) a minimum of six times, set ignition status to ON, if DTC remains install a new differential pressure sensor

Otherwise there are 3 entries about differential pressure sensor and blocked damaged connecting hoses. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

I am not sure if this applies to Landrovers but this was always a common diagnostic trick on Fiat Group cars:

Unplug the electrical connection from the DPF pressure sensor completely and start the engine, does it run fine?

It should give a warning but revert to a basic parameter set and restore performance but this will confirm if it is actually the sensor or not.

If that doesn't work, the DPF might be completely clogged. you might need to remove it from the car and clean it on the bench.

IanMetro wrote:

(Repair Manual)
Symptom
'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Torque derate, regeneration locked out (DTC P244A16 also logged)

Cause
Particulate filter differential pressure below limit

Action
Clear DTC, cycle ignition status from ON to OFF (power down) a minimum of six times, set ignition status to ON, if DTC remains install a new differential pressure sensor

Otherwise there are 3 entries about differential pressure sensor and blocked damaged connecting hoses.

ransoman wrote:

I am not sure if this applies to Landrovers but this was always a common diagnostic trick on Fiat Group cars:

Unplug the electrical connection from the DPF pressure sensor completely and start the engine, does it run fine?

It should give a warning but revert to a basic parameter set and restore performance but this will confirm if it is actually the sensor or not.

If that doesn't work, the DPF might be completely clogged. you might need to remove it from the car and clean it on the bench.

gerrardrocks wrote:

2) consider myself the unluckiest person ever, still assume it’s faulty sensors, get my wallet out and hand over £200 to Land Rover for a new one at the dealers

It’s posts like yours that puts people off asking anything.
So I’m personally being blamed for Land Rover’s poor reputation?
By someone who can’t read?
1) one of the sensors was from a national motor factors and was over £100. In person.
2) if you had bothered to read, I now currently have fitted a JLR sensor. Whilst not new, this was supplied by a spares specialist from an Evoque- with less than 35,000 miles on it. That just so happens to have the exact same problem?
3) if the dealer didn’t charge an astonishing £240 Inc vat for the original, poor quality sensor, then I wouldn’t have bothered with “crap from the internet” in the first place. Whilst I’m not advocating deleting a DPF, I could get that done including a remap for not much more.
I’ve since found that this part is shared with several ford models. I’m going to try their main dealers, just in case.
Unless you are going to have another go telling me fitting it will stain Land Rovers reputation? Perhaps you should contact their legal department and see if I’m worth suing for slander?

Bravo. You rock Gerrard. The number of sensors drives me nuts - a simple non-essential component fails and the whole bloody car becomes useless. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Get back in your box

By my reckoning, you've fitted 4 replacement sensors, unless I've miscounted. And none of which can be tested off the car.

The first being an Amazon special
2nd from a factors (which admittedly, you'd expect to be OK)
3rd was a Ford part, an ebay special
4th was a 2nd hand Evoque part

I'm not surprised your frustrated with it...

While I don't have the engineering part numbers to hand to compare the sensors, are the Evoque and FL2 sensors compatible? They list different part numbers...

Let’s agree to back off on the personal stuff? Truce?
Thanks for the reply.
It’s my understanding that the Evoque and the Freelander parts are interchangeable in this instance, based on feedback from parts suppliers, although the part numbers do vary slightly. Given the engines are identical, makes sense. This is where my thought lie about trying to source the equivalent through Ford.
My nephew mentioned that the throttle issue could cause issues with the regen cycle, but I’ve not seen any codes to reflect this, and having read through the thread, I’ve not got the noises that would indicate the gears have gone, although considering that it’s reasonably easy (and inexpensive) to replace, and I’ve no receipt to show any previous replacement, is it worth doing anyway?
Think I’m going to have to bite the bullet for going to the dealer. I’m going to do a really good search tonight see if I can find an alternative supplier of the official OEM sensor, new.
At least I’ve eliminated the sensor as the cause should it not cure it, but it makes my blood boil that the OEM spare is so unbelievably expensive- when I called the dealer a few weeks back he actually apologised, he knew himself that it’s a take.

Hi,
Quick update- (been away working) changed out sensor for OEM from LR
Still the same- basically now get red “reduced performance” and DPF code exactly the same as the used sensor I fitted a couple of weeks back.
One question regarding fuel pressure readings,
At idle, I’m. Reading about 45000 kpa, my nephews obd says this is too high?
I’m not seeing any fuel pressure related codes though.
If I rev the engine, the reading changes, I’ve not checked exact numbers vs RPM but changing none the less.
Could this be fuel pressure issue?

just a thought have you got the correct spec engine oil in it , for use with DPF . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

I have bud, was changed at the service for the correct spec less than 1000 miles ago.