Have bought some Lanoguard for my Landy and wondered if there were any common issue areas on the FL2 that I should pay particular attention to that may not be obvious on first inspection.

I have already done the suspension after removing the wheels and masking the brakes.

Should I remove the metal cover under the engine, any other covers underneath etc?

Thanks. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Rear subframe seems to be an issue on older cars. Also the wheel arc lips, if you remove the rubber trim and give a good clean behind them, they are a real mud trap. I've removed mine altogether and plan to wax behind them this year now the salt should be all off the roads 🤞 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Sorry I should have said I’ve done the arch trims as well. They were in really good condition for an almost 9 year old car which was nice. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Please do an update on how easy the job is , and how it looks when finished . As I understand it Lanoguard requires an annual top up , is that the case ? I’m thinking of doing my Scooby , and if that’s successful the new truck also . I did have the FL2 waxoyled at great expense by a bloke who is a LandRover specialist , and to be fair it lasted around 5 years and probably extended the time I kept the car . Also can you tell us the real life ‘ smell of sheep ‘ and how fast it goes ! 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Impossible to say how good it is in terms of protection as I’ve only just applied it. However the general feedback is very good and it would seem lanolin is used by lots of motorists in other countries so in theory it’ll be good.

My understanding is it seeps into the metal and rust and so it’s very easy to apply. I imagine an annual top up would be sensible but for the cost of a 2L bottle each year I think that’s ok.

It applies VERY easily. The spray bottle works well and you can adjust the level of mist or jet so it’s easy to get to lots of places.

I took the wheels off and did each corner in only a few minutes as it just soaks in. I then lay on the ground and did all visible surfaces. I dare say if I got it up on a lift there’d be bits I’ve missed but for a first go it took no time at all.

I got the sill injector tubing but to be honest I’m not sure what constitutes as the sill and where I’d inject it 😂

It smells “farmy” I’d say, but even after a full application it only smells slightly when you’re by the car. It’s really not bad at all. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Here are a couple of my suspension photos after being sprayed. These are approximately 9 years old and have lived their life in Scotland so wet and salty.

I should add it’s recommended to leave it 24 hours before driving but I ended up not having a choice and I live on a dusty track, hence the dust on it.




 Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Great work on the Fl2, my next job on the wifes DS, I've got some Bilt Hamber products to use on it. 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (For now ?)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S

Which of the BH waxes are you using Mark?
They do several different types.
The big 750ml aerosols look good and I'd say 2 would do all the suspension, rear subframe and arches.
I used waxoil before on my Discovery 2 with a compressor, mucky job, but since there is no chassis as such on the Freely I'm thinking couple of tins of BH would be easier and less messy? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Ive used waxoyl on several vehicles.

I did the underneath of my Disco 2 (2000 reg) including body, suspension and inside/outside of the chassis rails - I sold it many years ago but according to the MOT history its now done 201k miles and has has no MOT fails due to corrosion. I like to think my work with a compressor and hot waxoyl played a part in its longevity. Jules

Bobupndown wrote:

Which of the BH waxes are you using Mark?
They do several different types.
The big 750ml aerosols look good and I'd say 2 would do all the suspension, rear subframe and arches.
I used waxoil before on my Discovery 2 with a compressor, mucky job, but since there is no chassis as such on the Freely I'm thinking couple of tins of BH would be easier and less messy?

So when you say you’re going to do the sills, can you explain exactly where that is and how you get access to them?

Cheers. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

bxzx16v wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Which of the BH waxes are you using Mark?
They do several different types.
The big 750ml aerosols look good and I'd say 2 would do all the suspension, rear subframe and arches.
I used waxoil before on my Discovery 2 with a compressor, mucky job, but since there is no chassis as such on the Freely I'm thinking couple of tins of BH would be easier and less messy?

I've got three cans of Dynax UB and I'll be getting some S50 with the extension lances for the sills etc .I'm going to do my Focus too with whatever's left if any, if there's not enough I'll order a couple more.

I'll get some pics up when I do the job, we plan on keeping both cars for a long time to come as we definitely don't plan on going electric. The wifes 07 plate Fl2 started with rust in the rear door shut/sill area and if it wasn't for that we possibly would have still hadvit even with 150k+ on.The plans is to fill every void with S50 and prevent the DS rotting from the inside out. I sprayed the behind the front wheel arch liners last year when they were removed to replace the springs. The DS doesn't do too much mileage now as it is shared with the Focus which will do nearly 50mpg around town. 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (For now ?)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S

From my past experience of cars before they were produced with better quality galvanised metal and some thought put into water trapping cavities, I believe that rust proofing relies on proper preparation of the surface before applying any protective 'Gunk', and then regular (annual?) inspection and maintenance of the those surfaces. Otherwise the protective layer will only act as a trap for water/salt/mud hidden away next to the metal.

I first came across professional 'rust proofing' whilst living in Germany in the 1960s. It was normal for garages to offer an annual underbody clean and reproofing with some thick oily substance (perhaps even old engine/gearbox oil).

Unfortunately in those days most cars rusted from the inside out anyway, so most rust-proofing failed.

Therfore my advice is take your time, clean and prepare, then regular check. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

I've used Lanoguard on all of my cars now and very happy with it I am.

The smell is not obvious and disappears after a couple of days. I applied mine for the first time last autumn and so far, so good. I sprayed down the underside of the cars with a hose first, before applying.

The only thing I am not too happy with is the spray applicator they provide. Despite cleaning it out after each use, it seems to gunk up rather easily now. I am considering getting one of those pump action garden spray pressure jobs with a lance applicator, with brass spray head. Tim

Freelander 2 HSE i6 Stornoway Grey with Alpaca & Tundra interior
Driven many miles in:
2 FL2s
1 Range Rover P38
4 Range Rover Classics
Many military LWB & 1/2 ton Lightweight Series IIA & III