Hi all,

Got an issue with my LR 2, 2013, TD4 S Automatic. Below is the "short" story. Grab a coffee or tea before you start reading

It all started in 2021 during the summer. A short message appeared on the dashboard (as i was starting the car) with "EBD Fault" (fraction of a second) and the car refuses to start and then the battery red icon was shown at the top. At that moment i didn't realize that my rear brake lights were not working and the manual was saying - go to the dealership (very helpful). So without knowing i drove nearly 350 km with no brake lights (i was away with work).
The next day i managed to get to a local service (not the dealership) and they tested the battery (health check was fine) and the OBD test the backlight switch was shown as an error. They ordered a new one (aftermarket) immediately... replaced and the issue was fixed.

Now... nearly one year passes. The same error shows up again (EBD fault and then the red battery sign) and again I go to the same local service and discover this time that fuse No. F14 (passenger side fusebox) was burned. Not the switches! From the moment i discovered that the fuse was blown and until the moment i took the car to the dealership i think i changed more than 20 fuses - all no. F14. The same issue every time... i press the start/stop button and the fuse burns... I get out of the car... change the fuse... car starts and i have brake lights. Sometimes i get lucky and it works for 2-3 days... sometimes i change it every day twice (one when i go to work, one when i come back from work).

Made an appointment at the dealership in early August and they started the investigations on the 7th of August and the diagnosis was: "we change both switches again but this time with the original ones" (brake pedal switch and start button switch again). And on top of that just before i took the car to the dealership another error out of nowhere appeared - Airbag yellow - part was ordered (not cheap)
So... after 3 weeks of waiting for the replacement parts, I got the car back on Friday. Less than 4 days later the issue appeared again. Same issue... same method. Start/Stop button - fuse blown.


So... if any ideas appear on what to check please share them with me. If someone has/had the same issue please let me know if you got it fixed. This thing is driving me crazy and i really need the car.

Other info:
- All cables were checked on the brake lights (LED) and top center one.
- ABS module doesn't show any errors. I haven't fully excluded this.
- Brake disks and pads changed in 2021 (3 months before this started) and they are not LR parts (Brembo).
- Battery check tests are done - health ok. Alternator charging is ok...
- Ammeter check on the F14 fuse dont show higher than 10A and yet the fuse blows.

Replace the other brake light. Maybe some idiot put a dodgy globe in there.

You can get a blade circuit breaker. Will save replacing fuses until problem solved. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Bought a couple of them. They are on the way.

As I understand it from the cct diagrams

The stop lights are controlled independently via the car electronics (FET per lamp as with all the FL2 lamps)

FP14 5amp circuit only goes from the Central Junction Box out to the Brake Pedal Switch and back to the CJB where it disappears into the electronics

Unless I have missed something, fault must lie in wiring to and from the CJB/Brake Pedal Switch, or the Switch unit itself, or most unlikely the CJB circuitry.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Switches were replaced with original LR Parts. And as a test, they measured also the amps when pressing the start/stop button. Not one test exceeded the 5 amp test (LR dealership tested the car). The problem appears random... sometimes every time I start the car or not at all for a full week. Yet it burns...

As an update on Friday last week, fuse while i was driving the car inside the city (more than 45 min). This was the first time it did this.