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Thehorse



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: berks
Posts: 78

United Kingdom 
Poor performance when hot - ideas??

I was in a lot of heavy traffic yesterday with a full load and the performance was really poor, like the turbo wasn’t working. Very similar to when my intercooler hose split a few years ago but there was no whistling sound. Went for a drive this morning and It felt fine, maybe a touch down on power but I could have imagined that.

I just inspected all the flexible intercooler pipes and they look ok, though there was some oil round the bottom of the lower right side hose from the intercooler - cleaned it up and no spilts.

Anything else this could be? I checked the fault codes and nothing reported.

Post #420372 15th Apr 2022 10:43 am
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Thehorse



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: berks
Posts: 78

United Kingdom 

My best guess now is a sticking turbo actuator or sticking vanes, seems fine now. Anyone had that before?

Post #420376 15th Apr 2022 3:12 pm
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2661

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Sticky turbo actuator is fairly common. Give it a spot of oil and move it bank and forward several time to check. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #420377 15th Apr 2022 4:19 pm
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Thehorse



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: berks
Posts: 78

United Kingdom 

Thehorse wrote:
My best guess now is a sticking turbo actuator or sticking vanes, seems fine now. Anyone had that before?


Thanks, I did try giving the actuator a little wiggle, there was some play in the linkages but I’m not sure it moved, didn’t want to force anything, does it usually require much force to move it?

Post #420378 15th Apr 2022 4:37 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1874

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red
Re: Poor performance when hot - ideas??

Thehorse wrote:


Anything else this could be? I checked the fault codes and nothing reported.

Does it have a genuine LR fuel filter installed? Some aftermarket filters cause power loss when hot. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #420388 16th Apr 2022 7:12 am
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Thehorse



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: berks
Posts: 78

United Kingdom 

Thehorse wrote:
Thehorse wrote:
My best guess now is a sticking turbo actuator or sticking vanes, seems fine now. Anyone had that before?


Thanks, I did try giving the actuator a little wiggle, there was some play in the linkages but I’m not sure it moved, didn’t want to force anything, does it usually require much force to move it?


Ah thanks, didn’t realise there was a temperature regulation valve in them. Mine is aftermarket, and I didn’t change it at the last service so could be the culprit.

Post #420390 16th Apr 2022 8:29 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1874

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

There's a thermostat in the filter, which is designed to maintain the fuel temperature to a minimum of 10°C. However some aftermarket filters don't return fuel to the tank at higher temperatures, which means less cool fuel from the tank is drawn in. As the less dense warmed fuel is returned to the injection, it can cause power loss. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Post #420394 16th Apr 2022 10:27 am
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Deano64



Member Since: 16 Aug 2013
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 602

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Bobupndown wrote:
Sticky turbo actuator is fairly common. Give it a spot of oil and move it bank and forward several time to check.

Hello. I’m trying to learn about this car cos I’ve got to keep it I think. Any pics of where this turbo actuator is

Post #420415 16th Apr 2022 8:23 pm
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 921

Australia 

Here ya go Deano64. This is so well documented on the forum, a simple search would have brought it up.

https://www-lrman-ru.translate.goog/freela...r_hl=en-GB (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #420421 16th Apr 2022 11:51 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2821

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Nodge68 wrote:
There's a thermostat in the filter, which is designed to maintain the fuel temperature to a minimum of 10°C. However some aftermarket filters don't return fuel to the tank at higher temperatures, which means less cool fuel from the tank is drawn in. As the less dense warmed fuel is returned to the injection, it can cause power loss.


I would consider service history as this non-standard Fuel Filter problem keeps reappearing as an ongoing problem on this forum. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #420430 17th Apr 2022 9:51 am
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Deano64



Member Since: 16 Aug 2013
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 602

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Badger51 wrote:
Here ya go Deano64. This is so well documented on the forum, a simple search would have brought it up.

https://www-lrman-ru.translate.goog/freela...r_hl=en-GB


Thanks

Post #420437 17th Apr 2022 4:01 pm
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Thehorse



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: berks
Posts: 78

United Kingdom 

So things took a turn for the worse this week.

After running fine for a few days it broke down on the way to catch a ferry, luckily I managed to limp home and swap cars and just caught it.

Suddenly lost power going up a hill, clouds of black smoke and a slight strange sound from under the bonnet. Just got back and checked under the bonnet. Intercooler hoses look ok. A bit of oil round the intake hose after the air filter leading to the turbo intake - I did take this off last week and it wasn’t on quite right but have reset this now and it looks ok, but still smoking down on power.

I looked at the turbo actuator and it seemed to be moving ok, mainly moves on the over run - made a video, does this look right?

https://youtube.com/shorts/-g8z9g1GDhE?feature=share

Any comments welcome.

PS - what’s the approx cost for a new recon turbo fitted?

Post #420600 23rd Apr 2022 10:44 am
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