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Dartman the one



Member Since: 04 Apr 2013
Location: Seville, Spain
Posts: 1650

England 

npinks wrote:
I have never used fibreglass resin, but read that you can add 3-7% more resin than hardener to allow more spreadable resin, i was pondering if this would then make it more injectable and penetrate further in

I will coat the outer surface with release agent, of some description, I assume that this will be able to be removed afterwards and the clamps wouldn't stick to the outer part of the board

The amount of hardener used is very small, the resin is fairly thin (do not confuse styrene resin with gelcoat which is thicker) you only need 3 or 4 drops per 7oz cup, increasing hardener reduces curing time and a slightly weaker and less flexible joint, the higher the temperature also decreases curing time, at this time of year do your injecting and clamping a shed or garage then take into the warm about 20-22 deg. I would suggest your problem is caused by the resin being semi cured when the 2 halves of the board were joined in the mould, not unusual if made by hand in a hot country. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Post #278389 13th Oct 2015 11:55 am
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

thanks

I have had a look at some glues in my local hardwear store, they had some Unibond 100% power Glue, which is solvent free (no mixing either) and that says it sticks Plastics and Glass fibre is listed, its waterproof and also transparent, it seems to tick all the boxes

The knee-boards will be production line, built by hand, pressed by machine out in Taiwan.

Unfortunately the company i bought it off, didn't pack it very well, for the courier to drop it and split the fibreglass apart. I got a great price, with it been an ex display board in A1 condition, but the end of the season meant they didn't have another to replace it with, instead they swapped it for a brand new 2016 board, not even released over here yet Very Happy and i suggested a deal on this one and will attempt to repair it

Either way, I got a new kneeboard, for less than half price and this one for a fraction of the cost it would have been, so i am quite well in front, and i might sell the 2016 board if this repair goes well and make money Wink Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #278401 13th Oct 2015 2:03 pm
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Jimski



Member Since: 21 Jan 2013
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 649

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

Win win win win win all round then!! By the time you've done all this research and bought the right stuff (plus free Sugru) you could buy damaged ones and sell them on haha Thumbs Up 2013 FL2 - Black Edition Auto
2013 FL2 - Black Edition Manual GONE!
Founder of the 'Microscopic LR Spoiler Badge Club'
Destroyer of chrome rears.....

Post #278403 13th Oct 2015 2:07 pm
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

It could be my new past time, though I think i might need to move to were the weathers better and open "Nick's Stic'em back together shop" sponsored by Jimski's segru Laughing Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #278405 13th Oct 2015 2:29 pm
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Dartman the one



Member Since: 04 Apr 2013
Location: Seville, Spain
Posts: 1650

England 

GRP resin is almost clear, depending on the make, some have have a slight shading, of brown or very light purple, if you can clamp it together well it won't show. There are some excellent flake effect pigments to add to gelcoat so as produce a stipe on the join to disguise it. Should you wish to get more information you can PM me, fibre glass is a bit like plasticine the way you can play with it, all cut and shunt without seeing joins. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Post #278410 13th Oct 2015 3:05 pm
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