I'm in the process of installing a 2 way radio (ham).

Antenna is installed and radio is mounted neatly under the drivers seat but I now need to pick up a 20Amp +ve feed to power the transceiver. In previous LR's I've connected directly onto the battery terminals to avoid interference and damaging the cars electrics but on the FL2 I just can't seem to find any way of getting the radio's wires through the bulkhead and into the engine bay. My only resort seems to be to pick up a +ve wire at the right rating inside the car .... anyone any ideas ?

Nice to see one more ham at this forum. What rig are you going to install?
I don’t have my LR2 yet, and in all my LRs I have installed as you say to the battery. So, good lock and tell me your final experience.
I don’t have my Spanish call yet, hopes to get it soon.

73, YURI
(ARS) X E 1 U N



My 04 FL HSE KV6 in Mexico (sold) Yuri
(ARS) XE1UN, EA1HCZ

13 LR2 (FL2) HSE Lux SI4
Havana/Black
(Mexico)

08 LR2 (FL2) SE
Tambora/Black
(Mexico GONE)

05 DISCOVERY 3 G4 V8
Tangiers Orange/Black
(Spain)

13 RANGE ROVER SPORT HSE SDV6
Orkney Grey / Ebony (Black)
(Spain)

07 RANGE ROVER SPORT HSE TDV8
Java Black/Black
(Spain GONE)

02 DEFENDER 90 BLACK LE TD5
(Spain GONE)

09 VOLVO XC70 OCEAN RACE EDITION D5
Ocean Race Blue
(Spain)

There should be a way to pass through the firewall -even if you do radio install by yourself, it may be better to go to one of the sound/alarm installation shops and ask them to pass the wire for you.
Another way would be to remove knee bolster/panels under the dashboard, and drill a hole through the firewall,
however there should be one or another way to do w/o drilling...

Radio is an ICOM IC-208E.

It's now mounted under the right front (drivers) seat - there is already a plate with pre-drilled holes that line up nicely with the radios existing mobile mounting bracket.

The antenna is a boot lip mount which is installed on the top of the right side of the boot - I found the antenna cable is easy to route under the plastic trims and along where the carpet meets the trims on the rear doors (be careful of the little plastic trim fixings when re-fixing the panels, they are easy to damage if you don't locate them properly - I need to make a visit to the dealer and get a couple of replacements!!)

The radio has a remote head unit which I've mounted in the square hole where the sat-nav would go. I cut the remote cable near the head unit and soldered in an in-line DIN plug and socket so that it could be easily removed when I leave the car. The wire for the remote head goes through the back of the plastic sat-nav holder (there is already a small hole in this but its easy to remove it an enlarge the hole if required) and under the transmission hump cover to the driver seat.

Only thing now is the power - I've had a good look around with a torch and pulled some of the carpet/sound proofing up and can see that the majority of the wires go through the bulkhead on the left hand side of the car but there really is no space to get any more cables through here.

There are a pair of thick red/black wires that run under the carpet in the foot well left hand front side which I assume may be the +ve/-ve feeds to the rear fusebox and I'm tempted to break into these for the power, but without knowing what they are I'm probably asking for trouble!! I really don't want to go drilling holes in the bulkhead.

Someone on another forum said the D3 has a spare cable gromit for this type of thing and I reckon the FL2 will have one as well - its just finding it!!

A trip to the dealer and a chat with a friendly auto electrician are the only options I think. I'll post pictures when I get the chance.

I found a way thru the firewall by removing the glove box and then peeling back the noise damping cloth. This reviled about 4million wires and electrical bits but you could see the firewall. Going from the boot release level on the left door is a black cable which goes thru a hole in the firewall. There is some more noise damping on the firewall and you can see where a section has been cut to allow the boot release cable thru.

If you pull that back you can see a grommet which goes thru to the bonnet just near the battery. I had to remove the battery to get to the cable after I poked it thru but I now have a wire running from the battery into the back for my sub.

Have you checked the luggage compartment fuse box to take your supply from?
With the radio already in the cabin and running the ariel under the carpets and behind the panels, the supply cable can be run to the luggage compartment fuse box where there are several spare slots available. this box is fed by 3 x 60 amp fuses in the engine bay fuse box, one of them for the audio unit.
Not having a Haynes manual yet to get a wiring diagram, i couldn't suggest which slot to take your 20 amp feed from but a word with your local dealer might help to identify the best slot.
Hope this helps... Out with the old (2007 SE)
In with the new (2012 Dynamic with everything). Now also gone.

Glad I found this thread. Pick mine up this week. I have just ripped all the amateur radio gear out of my old Corsa and I am not looking forward to fitting in the Freelander2. If it is anything like as hard as it was on my Disco3 it will take all day. No more fighting with the misses over who takes the 4x4.

Any more radio hams on here?



Landrovers go anywhere Best regards Steve GW7AAV
http://www.gw7aav.com
http://www.cqhq.co.uk

Yep








Using IC-703, base unit is in cubby hole in the boot of the D3, took the power for it from the towbar electrics.

As others have said, you can take power from the rear fuse box. That way it keeps the wiring inside the vehicle. ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

I've a Yaesu FT-8800 fitted to my FL2.

The main base of the radio is fitted beneath the driver's seat. It is actually fitted to a quick-release mount which is screwed to the plastic aircon vent which sticks into the floor.

I have a short dual-band antenna mounted through the roof (centre rear of the roof) with the cable routed behind various bits of trim to beneath the driver's door.
Power, audio and the remote head cables route sideways to under the centre console then up. I draw 12v from a clip-on connection on the rear "cigarette lighter" socket.

The head unit is screwed onto the plastic just above the cubby hole (where the GPS goes on posher models) on the front and I have a speaker stuck under the grille just behind that.

Fitted it about a year ago, shortly after I got the car. No issues with it.
I'm not actually a radio amateur and use the radio for cadet comms primarily so my antenna requirements aren't as demanding.

I guess you have these in Scotland as mobile phones can't get signals

Breaka break Mother Hen, put a cup'o'joe on the hob, Papa Dave's coming home OVER

I know that's not what you probably use them for as that's Smokey and Bandit speak

Anyway what do you use them for in a car , its not like you can use them safely whilst driving speaking to somebody who you don't know a 1000miles away about the weather  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

wildrover wrote:

Have you checked the luggage compartment fuse box to take your supply from?
With the radio already in the cabin and running the ariel under the carpets and behind the panels, the supply cable can be run to the luggage compartment fuse box where there are several spare slots available. this box is fed by 3 x 60 amp fuses in the engine bay fuse box, one of them for the audio unit.
Not having a Haynes manual yet to get a wiring diagram, i couldn't suggest which slot to take your 20 amp feed from but a word with your local dealer might help to identify the best slot.
Hope this helps...

npinks wrote:

Anyway what do you use them for in a car , its not like you can use them safely whilst driving speaking to somebody who you don't know a 1000miles away about the weather

Who can't? That's what wives are for or as we call them XYLs (eX Young Ladies). I get mine to drive home from the pub or when I want to talk on the radio or have a kip.  Best regards Steve GW7AAV
http://www.gw7aav.com
http://www.cqhq.co.uk

npinks wrote:

Anyway why do you have caravans , its not like you can tow them safely whilst driving 1000miles away, praying about the weather

 At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Picking up an old thread as I have just purchased a replacement car for the good lady

I need to install a yaesu ft 8900 with remote head
where have the head units been mounted ?
I note from previous posts that getting a direct feed from battery through bulkhead is not easy

Did anyone manage or is it best to pick up at rear fuse box.

To be honest I'd prefer to run a small aux fuse box with 2 or 3 feeds using 30amp Anderson pole connectors this makes it easynto swap or change radios if needed .

Aside ham we also do radio at rallies and provide support at events where they use private pmr radios, it best to have the set up ready.

Have the same set up in my defender but it's easy to wire that to an aux battery

View / photo welcome

Cheers

Hugh Disco 3 HSE

Defender Puma 110

Freelander 2 HSE