I have an intermittent fault on my FL2 (2014). There is a momentary lack of power when accelerating in the lower gears. It only lasts for less than a second but is potentially dangerous when pulling away from a junction. It's done 33k miles & just been serviced.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

You have a manual, so keep the RPM above 2000 and you'll be fine whatever request from the engine you'll need.
Despite the general consensus about diesel engines, being a turbo diesel engine, you'll need to have enough flow to generate boost and therefore the need to be over 2000 RPMs.
At 1800 RPM and below, combined with a hard foot will only be detrimental to the engine in the long run.
Change your driving style in order for, when you change up, the RPM to NOT drop below 2000. So you need to change up at about 2500+ RPM.
I know, it seems too much, but the engine will thank you: clean exhaust and turbo, clean pistons and piston rings.
Not to mention that in order to seal the cylinders, the piston rings are pushed against the cylinder walls by the pressure generated inside cylinders.
The bigger the pressure the better the seal.
Quickly and energetic progress to the desired speed and then hold there. Don't drive like a nanny and don't labor the engine. Remember 2000+ RPMs.
Just try it for a few days. Don't get impressed by the sound of the engine, don't worry, it can handle.

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 24th Oct 2020 7:05 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Interesting thoughts, I am a nanny driver Think I will become a bad boy driver and see how I go  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Interesting - my son has had a diesel Leon FR with DSG for 10 years . He recently had a go in my Fiesta ST and found it very difficult to let it rev above 4K before changing gear. He instinctively changed gear when the engine sounded right to him and clearly was used to lower diesel red line.

In fact now I recall I had the same problem driving a golf GTI after having diesels of various sorts for 20 years. But now we have a mix of petrol and diesel and I'm have got use hitting the rev limiter at 6K+  Jules

Or it could be the fuel filter

alex_pescaru wrote:

You have a manual, so keep the RPM above 2000 and you'll be fine whatever request from the engine you'll need.
Despite the general consensus about diesel engines, being a turbo diesel engine, you'll need to have enough flow to generate boost and therefore the need to be over 2000 RPMs.
At 1800 RPM and below, combined with a hard foot will only be detrimental to the engine in the long run.
Change your driving style in order for, when you change up, the RPM to NOT drop below 2000. So you need to change up at about 2500+ RPM.
I know, it seems too much, but the engine will thank you: clean exhaust and turbo, clean pistons and piston rings.
Not to mention that in order to seal the cylinders, the piston rings are pushed against the cylinder walls by the pressure generated inside cylinders.
The bigger the pressure the better the seal.
Quickly and energetic progress to the desired speed and then hold there. Don't drive like a nanny and don't labor the engine. Remember 2000+ RPMs.
Just try it for a few days. Don't get impressed by the sound of the engine, don't worry, it can handle.

Quote:

its the known fault with this engine that nobody can get to the bottom of

If you say so, the thing about the bottom part....
I was just talking about how you can drive in order to avoid those situations, given the de facto conditions.
As for solving this, from what I know, but I may be far removed from the truth, it's just a matter of disabling the boost release function through the EGR when you come of from the gas pedal.
This is especially felt when you previously energetically pressed the gas pedal, then brake and then again full throttle.
There is there a period of about one second when the EGR is fully opening in order to dump the turbo generated excess pressure on the exhaust for avoiding turbo surge.
During that period, if you press the accelerator again, up until the EGR is closing and up until the turbo is again generating boost, there is that lag.
Either you programmatically turn that pressure dumping switch off in software or you turn off/disable the EGR maps for those RPMs.
But they left that there into ECU software for reliability reasons.
Easy as PI...

^^^^ OK Alex , but with respect, why do LR admit to this fault , and also try to cure it , without success. And why is it temperature related. i.e the problem goes away completely during winter months, in U.K. of course. I have been working on this for nine years . Never had the problems until the first major service, and it was then evident from the moment I drove away from the LR garage.

There are thousands of drivers with thousands of driving styles.
LR has to come with a firmware which must respect pollution rules, reliability and accommodate users wishes, possibly in this order.
Guess which ones take precedence...
You mentioned a certain German car manufacturer...
Maybe they have a different method for dumping the excess intake pressure and therefore they don't have to use the EGR to do this.
For LR and Ford/PSA, in order to do this maybe they need to change something in hardware. For sure this is not a viable option considering the number of cars sold.
And to use software to fix it, will mean to break some of the pollution norms which is a big NO. Remember what happened to VW.
So, they are in a quite big stalemate.
And considering that only a part of the users are complaining, part that can solve the problem by changing the driving style, this will turn to a no brainer... Recognized one.

As for the temperature thing...
Yes, the EGR will not fully function as it should up until the water and especially oil temperature is not over a certain value.
Until then, the EGR is very little used, as the inside temperatures are not as high for the NOx to be produced.
So during cold periods, when engine warm up is longer, you have the impression, and for good reason, that all is OK, because EGR is mostly kept unused.
But still, the pressure dumping will be there, no matter what, and you'll feel it even then.

In LR defense, remember that this engine comes from commercial utility vehicles and not performance cars.
So don't have the desire/claim to use it and behave like a sports car... You are asking too much.
Take comfort that is one of the cars and engines that are the most reliable, if not the most reliable, from all LR range of cars.
We have to get used with its quirks and learn to drive it properly...

Unfortunately that’s not an acceptable situation , when your off the gas and rolling at a road junction or roundabout and nothing happens when you try to joint the traffic flow , very dangerous.

No ofence, but if you say that you are working on this for nine years and you still have the car and in the same time you are still unhappy, I believe you have a little masochism in you...

Discussion closed.

CED I think Alex is just showing humour not having a go at you, we all need to smile these days  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Indeed and I am sincerely sorry if I offended you in any way...
Not an English speaking person so my choice of words may not reflect the correct state of mind...
Anyhow, again, sorry.

Hi Alex, there is no need to apologise as I know you didn’t intend offence. I feel you are not talking about the well documented posts on this site about this problem that only exists on facelift models . This is what NickTh is experiencing. This only happens when pulling away or in a rolling situation. The annoying thing is that changing components will very often cure the problem for a time . Even a new battery and the problem disappeared for a time. Please read my posts and other members on this subject. I still feel it is fuel filter related as that was the only thi ng that altered when my car developed this annoying problem. Could it be tiny air bubbles in the fuel line that somehow never disperse. Air filter , maf sensor replacement all show improvement for a short time . Maybe I should have said