I think have read all the previous posts on this subject but still seek further clarification. Mine is a 2007 manual td4 and have found that the driving experience on normal roads is so much more enjoyable when it is switched to sand mode. The throttle response is so much better and the performance lively. With careful throttle control there does not appear to be any detriment to the mpg or road handling. I would like to keep it switched in sand mode permanently for normal driving in dry conditions. However, I am aware of the statement in the manual regarding using TR settings and possibly causing more wear and tear. However, if used continuously on normal roads I cannot see why this should be. It will presumably be switched to 50/50 4WD and there will be some alteration in stability and braking control. I have searched the web and cannot find a detailed description of exactly what each setting does to the various control functions of the car. I only read generalisations about altering the characteristics of this or that to suit the terrain. Is there anyone that can give an authorative statement rather than just opinions on the effect of keeping in sand mode for normal on road driving. Is it safe? Is it likely to cause extra wear on components? Is it detrimental to stability control? Super vehicle which can really brought to life I have found.

Not sure about any long term negatives ref' wear and tear but I use mine a fair bit on sand and have noticed if the sand mode is used all the time on roads the fuel consumption does take a turn for the worse. Another option might be worth looking at getting her chipped from a reputable 'chipper'......better response all around and usually same/higher fuel economy. I've had three previous diesel cars that were done without any negative effects at all. The 3.0 V6 diesel Vectra was a monster of a car that I still miss. I have found that the sand mode only offers improved low down throttle response, it runs out of puff earlier in my mind.

During cornering, the rear wheels track a much smaller circle than front. So rear axle travel a smaller distance than front axle.
When in sand mode, a 50/50 repartition of traction, combined with above statement/truth, will translate in a much, much quicker wear of the Haldex clutches because that difference in track speed/distance will have to disipate somewhere.
And because the tarmac (normal roads) will give a much better adhesion than sand, in FL2 case, that difference will disipate inside the Haldex instead on a slipping wheel.
Of course the traction logic will slip a little the Haldex clutches and wont let them to be fully locked for a real 50/50 when the steering wheel isn't centered, but the traction logic isn't always infailible.
For a free center differential car, like Defender for example, this isn't a problem because the difference in track speed/distance is taken out by the centre differential. In fact this is its meaning.
But a Haldex set to 50/50 repartition of torque will act like a locked center differential.
Try to drive a Defender with the center differential locked on tarmac (normal roads) and see what's happen...
In other words, don't do it!
Read more here, about Axle/Transmission Windup.

In fact any modes of Terrain Response should only be used on that particular situation. For normal driving, on tarmac, there is TR OFF mode.

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 13th Oct 2010 11:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total

So with the above i guess its the same for driving on wet roads with the TR in Grass, gravel, snow ? i read not to long ago on hear that on wet roads its best to put the TR into Grass, gravel snow as it gives better grip is this not the case ?

The advantage of the Terrain Response system is that of being a reactive system.
Meaning it takes action only when it sees a problem.
It only acts as a proactive system on starting to move from standing still, when it partially locks the Haldex and then progresivelly releasing the lock.
The things are not so grim as I've stated in the previous post and there are very few cases when the Haldex is fully locked for a 50/50, but better to be prepared for the worst and to fully and clearly understand what is happening and why.
Generally the TR is focused on locking individual wheels through the ABS rather than locking the Haldex.
So, as I was saying, the TR should first see a wheel slip before begining to lock firstly the individual wheels and then the Haldex. And when there is already a wheel slip there is a much more chance that that difference in axles speed I've talked about to have where to be dissipated - in the slipping wheel(s). But on tarmac, without wheel(s) slip, there is a much more chance to damage the Haldex, in an improper TR mode, especially during cornering.
Be sure that LR engineers have taken into consideration the fact that there are a lot of funny people out there who will try different "strange" things with their cars and have taken a lot of measures for making the car and the TR system foolproof.
But can you be sure they don't miss something(s) or someone(s) realy "ingenious"?

very informative and interesting replies alex_pescaru, thanks

Iain

Yes thank you alex_pescaru. Can always rely on you to give a sensible technical response. I do have a better understanding now. Although I am still not sure if permanent sand mode is detrimental or whether it is best to play safe and not engage it for normal driving. It is a pity that there isn't a LR technical design engineer on the forum that can support/confirm what forum members are saying.

Thanks from me too Alex...... , very imformative.

Thank you guys for your kind words!
I am glad that I could help.

Don't do it...it's sand for a reason and road (off) for a reason. You're essentially using the Sand mode as a 'Sport' button, and as Alex says it does more than just quicken the throttle response.

If you want a sprightlier freelander have a word with JE Engineering or someone else who specialises in mapping LR's. Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County