I've spent hours reading forums on SDD just to learn what hardware I need and what version SDD I want that is affordable for a single-vehicle owner who just wants it to keep their older Freelander 2 running.

I recently bought a 2008 FL2 I6 3.2 Petrol RHD JDM which I am debugging. I own a working ThinkPad Z60t with XP pro and a Microsoft Surface Laptop Windows 10 - both of which can be dedicated to the SDD.

I may sell this FL2 if I can find a HSE Tonga green, tan leather interior, wood trim, sunroof, towbar, I6, reasonable KM, always garaged (no cracked dashboard), low km, service records FL2, but for now, it seems I need SDD to ensure everything is shipshape if I keep it or if I sell it. For example, I read I need SDD to reset the ECU after installing a new MAF.

Some suggest SDD software V131. Others say get the current version. Some say get the Mongoose cable. Others say get a Chinese clone.

Cost varies wildly. Mongoose sells a kit for £400 (NZ$900). To put this in perspective, currently someone is offering a 2007 Freelander 2 with 170,000 km (105,000 miles) on it for NZ$1,500 (£650) because the check engine light is on and it loses power under heavy acceleration.

As for buying official versus Made-In-China, almost everything is actually made in China now regardless of what is says on the package. It may be assembled in the west, but China has become the factory of the world. They have seven levels of product with top tier, like Apple, made with advanced robotics. The secret is to make sure you are getting a top tier or second tier factory product. Often it is a factory practice to do the prime customer run (i.e. Mongoose or even JLR) at a premium, and then continue making the same product without brand that is sold for the actual cost plus a modest mark-up. As newbies, we can only look to the veterans on the forum to guide us... and once we have taken the plunge, to write up our experience as a pay forward.

For a newbie, the amount of SDD info overwhelming without a simple sticky to offer guidance. On another forum there is a thread called Everything JLR SDD related started in 2020 that now has 641 posts on 32 pages of thread. According to Google AI it would take an average reader roughly 16.7 hours to read 600 forum posts.

I doubt if I will be the last new-to-Land Rover member to join this forum. May I ask for a new sticky: SDD for dummies?

1 What SDD is and why a one-vehicle Freelander 2 owner would want it. Also describe all the other 3-letter acronyms that confuse like VNCI JLR DoIP, Pathfinder/CCF tools/SEEDKEY,
2 List the different versions of SDD and why one chooses one over another (V131 vs current). Some require a subscription, others are all on your laptop provided you cut off the Internet
3 List approved vendor hardware and software products to buy and approximate cost (Mongoose £400?)
4 List known clones/knock offs where members have had a good outcome and list the cost
5 List vendors/products to avoid (bad experience blacklist)
6 For No. 3 above, describe what is necessary to get it running - is it plug and play?
7 Ditto for No. 4 above, as many threads talk about it taking a day to get the settings right
8 Discuss option of using your own laptop rather than buying a plug-and-play older PC (for V131)

The ideal scenario for a newbie is to go to the thread, decide if they have the budget to buy Mongoose or not, and if not, to have a clear shopping list of what to buy, where and costs as of the thread date.

After it arrives, they follow the instructions on the thread and soon find they have a working tool.

The only additional thread replies should be updates to what to buy or how to install. No questions or chatter that bloats the thread; encourage a second thread for that.

Sounds like you have talked yourself into a job

Once you have written your guide, I suggest that you post it and contact (PM) Martin the Site Owner and Administrator.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/member-martin.html

As you say it will be a valuable addition to the forum. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Ian….
Reading Waiheke’s post I don’t think he was going to compile a comprehensive guide to JLRSDD……
unless I read it wrong he’s hoping an expert computer member will do this……BossBob for instance….

Waikeke…..the prices in NZ for SDD items seem prohibitively expensive……just buy a Autel AP 200 ….
will do most jobs on FL2……
I did a bit of research this year…….newer versions of SDD (v166) only work on Panasonic…Toughbooks …as I found to my cost……several posts on subject…… FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Thanks Oxonpete
How I read Waikeke's posting, he said that he had done quite a lot of research on the subject, and he suggested a very good outline to what is needed in the document.

He may not know all the answers yet, but I am sure that if he posted a suggested document as far as he has has discovered, then it could be added to and edited, by himself and other members, to gradually build into a very useful reference.

A bit like WIKI---FL2 OBD perhaps.

It always pays to help someone who is interested achieve their goal. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Good suggestion, so I took my questions and pasted them into ChatGPT. What do you think?

1. What SDD Is and Why a Freelander 2 Owner Would Want It

SDD = Symptom Driven Diagnostics — Land Rover’s factory-level diagnostic and programming software used by dealers from around 2009 until it was replaced by Pathfinder for the newest models.

For a Freelander 2 owner, SDD allows you to:

* Read and clear manufacturer-specific fault codes (beyond what a generic OBD-II scanner can do).
* Run guided diagnostic tests using the same logic dealer techs follow.
* Access all vehicle modules — engine, gearbox, body control, infotainment, Haldex, etc.
* Perform service functions (e.g., EPB un-jam, service resets, DPF regens, gearbox adaptations).
* Configure module options (CCF editing — e.g., enabling DRLs, configuring towing electrics).
* Update module firmware when needed (with caution).

Other Acronyms You’ll See Around SDD:

* VNCI – “Vehicle Network Communication Interface.” The physical adapter between your laptop and the car’s OBD-II port.
* JLR DoIP – “Jaguar Land Rover Diagnostics over Internet Protocol.” The newer system used on vehicles from ~2017 onward (e.g., L551 Evoque). Not relevant to a Freelander 2 unless you also own newer JLR vehicles.
* Pathfinder – The dealer diagnostic software that replaced SDD for newer cars. Not used on Freelander 2.
* CCF Tools – Third-party utilities for editing the “Car Configuration File” directly, without SDD’s guided workflow.
* SeedKey – A cryptographic “unlock” process required to change certain secure module settings.

2. SDD Versions – Which to Choose and Why
Key points:

* Later SDD versions are tied to Jaguar Land Rover’s online servers and require a paid subscription.
* Earlier “offline” versions still work fine for Freelander 2, and don’t require internet connectivity.

Common versions in use:

* V131–V134 – Stable “offline” releases widely used by enthusiasts. Works fully offline, can be run on your own hardware, no subscription. Supports all Freelander 2 features.

>>>> EDIT from (https://tools4car.co.uk/product/jlr-ids-sd...c-software/)

The JLR IDS 131.03 Jaguar / Land Rover IDS SDD diagnostic software and calibration files and can only be installed on a computer or laptop running Windows XP Professional – the software will not install on any other operating system.

131V – this version is the last one which doesn’t require Topix account and you can use programming functions offline. It covers Jaguar 1996-2012 and Land Rovers 2005 – 2012.

It allows you to do the following:

Fault Code Reading / Resetting analyzing for repairs
Service Lights
Read / Clear / Reset Air bag Light codes
Programming Modules
Programming personalisation like ride height or folding wing mirrors.
Activate pumps for brake bleeding
Program new DSC units
Program ABS Units
This software is the same as that used by your local dealer and covers Jaguar cars from 1996 to 2012 and Land Rovers from 2005 to 2012.


Jaguar / Land Rover IDS SDD software version 138.02
JLR version after V137 do not support offline programming, you can do the online programming.
This will NOT work on Pre 2005 Land Rover.
You must have Windows XP,7, 8 Professional installed to use this software. It will not load on XP,7,8 Home or any versions of Vista.



<<<>>>

[i]JLR Jaguar/Land Rover IDS SDD mongoose software version 167
5 .Operating System:
Windows /8/7/Vista/(x32/x64)/Windows 10/11 PRO (It doesn’t work with HOME edition)
6. Installation instruction:
It comes with Video instruction
7. Support interfaces:
JLR PRO
VCM Rotunda, with both original & clone
Mongoose PRO
VCM II
Da-Dongle J2534 VCI (replaced VCM I)
JLR VCI (Jaguar Land Rover approved SAE j2534 Pass-Thru interface)
JLR VCI (SP284)
JLR DoiP VCI
Drivers VCM_I/VAS5054A/Mongoose

<<<<




Why people still use V131:

* Fully functional for Freelander 2.
* Runs on older, lightweight laptops.
* Offline — no risk of JLR servers “locking out” cloned hardware.
* Well-documented in enthusiast forums, so setup help is easy to find.

3. Approved Vendor Hardware & Software (Legit Sources)

* Official Mongoose Pro JLR (by Drew Technologies) — £350–£450.
* JLR’s own approved VCI for SDD.
* Works plug-and-play with current SDD subscription or older offline builds.
* Genuine VCIs from JLR dealers — Typically more expensive (£600+), often overkill for one-vehicle DIY use.

Software Access:

* Official JLR SDD via Topix subscription — £120+ for a short-term license (1–7 days) if you want the very latest.

4. Known Clones/Knock-Offs With Good Outcomes

Chinese Mongoose JLR Pro clones — £50–£80.
* Widely used in forums.
* Work fine for offline V131–V134 installs.
* Quality varies: some fail after months, others run for years.
* Most sold via AliExpress, OBDTool, or VXDiag resellers.

VXDiag VCX Nano JLR — £90–£120.
* Compact all-in-one adapter that emulates Mongoose.
* Often sold with preloaded SDD V131 in a Windows 7 VM.
* Works well for most Freelander 2 users.

5. Vendors/Products to Avoid (Bad Experience Blacklist)

* Ultra-cheap (<£40) Mongoose clones — Many forum reports of overheating, dropped connections mid-flash, bricking modules.
* Random eBay “SDD kits” with no vendor support — often full of malware, missing drivers, or pirated Windows images that break after updates.
* Unbranded DoIP devices — Useless for Freelander 2, marketed as “future-proof” but incompatible with SDD offline builds.

6. Setup for Approved Hardware (No. 3)

Mongoose Pro JLR (Genuine)
* Essentially plug-and-play.
* Install drivers from DrewTech or JLR Topix.
* Install SDD (either offline or with subscription).
* Connect to vehicle, start diagnostics.
* If using official subscription — keep internet on; if using offline build — disable internet to prevent auto-updates.

7. Setup for Clone Hardware (No. 4)

Typically more involved:

* Install the provided driver (often unsigned, so disable Windows driver signature enforcement).
* Install SDD V131–V134 (offline).
* Apply any patches/cracks provided to bypass login.
* Disable internet or block SDD in firewall to prevent “phone home” issues.
* Many users spend hours (or a day) tweaking Windows settings, resolving COM port conflicts, or fixing Java/IE dependencies.
* Forum guides & YouTube walkthroughs are invaluable here.

8. Using Your Own Laptop vs. Buying a Preloaded Older PC

Own laptop:

* Pros: Portable, familiar, saves money.
* Cons: Risk of software conflicts, especially if running Windows 10/11 (offline SDD likes Win7/32-bit best).

Preloaded older PC:

* Many vendors sell refurbished Dell/HP laptops with SDD preinstalled (Win7/32-bit) for ~£150–£250.
* Pros: Truly plug-and-play — just connect to car.
* Cons: Bulky, outdated hardware; can’t easily update or use for other tasks.

Last edited by Waiheke on 11th Aug 2025 9:57 am. Edited 2 times in total

Thanks Waukee for getting us going.

Please can the Forum Diagnostic Experts help out by replying with some paragraphs (or Snippets) of info to allow Waikeke to build on this useful information. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

bought a decent clone with Mongoose setup - SDD 1.66 - there are a few on Ebay worth looking into.
Able to program all features and add ons for both my Freelander 2's - The poverty spec on is slowly being upgraded - added cruise control, upgraded sound - using SDD to reprogramm CFF files.
Cost about €100 all in and software setup on an old laptop.

The Autel Max200 is a good alternative for basic diagnostics and some work - can also program keys, reads codes accurately and can do basic maintenance work - DPF regen, service resets etc.

Useful having both as the Autel lives in the glovebox and is bluetooth o connects to phone.
The autel is ideal for checking a new buy - did this when buying the SD4. useful to know what you are buying. 2011 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand - and behaving like a mad cow!
2008 TD S Auto Santorini Black - the other halfs murder mobile

Waiheke wrote:

I've spent hours reading forums on SDD just to learn what hardware I need and what version SDD I want that is affordable for a single-vehicle owner who just wants it to keep their older Freelander 2 running.

Awesome idea, this guide. I have used SDD a number of times but that was a while ago. It's not user friendly. I use version V130 and I have pretty well forgotten how to navigate through it. How to use engineering mode is a must!

Madmustang wrote:

How you getting on with this as I am at the stage where I have it up and running but what exactly am I looking at? Just a load of squares and no obvious way of reading code??

It sounds like you are ahead of me. The V131 did not want to work with my IBM ThinkPad with Windows 7 Pro. It wanted a Panasonic. The V165 that came with the Mangoose Chinese Clone says the password they supplied (which can be found on the Internet) expired in 2024. The V168 supplied by a member of this forum had a temporary password that expired a week later. Unfortunately, the Mangoose did not arrive until after the password expired, and to extend I need to pay the forum member €40, which I would be OK with if it actually meant I had a working SDD, but given the problems, I decided to see how far I could get with my Autel MP808 and replacing parts.

My main problem was heat soak, meaning if I drove 15 minutes, parked for 10, it would not start for about 10 minutes, although it seemed to be better when I removed the engine insulation cover. Having owned a 2004 Jag (a Ford) and 2001 SLK (a Chrysler), I found for that era of car the sensors are a liability. They report an error not when there is something wrong with the car (like a vacuum hose that fell off), but something wrong with the sensor. Buying JLR brand is supposedly the best way to go, but the prices are ridiculous. One can easily spend half the value of the car on sensors. And some require a car hoist which means paying a workshop for those of us who do not have one in the back yard.

At one point I replaced the fuel rail sensor with a new Chinese brand, and it began to throw off error codes P0171.00 and P0174.00. Figuring it might be Chinese quality, I then paid real money and bought a branded one - no joy.

It still had the heat soak problem so I replaced the O2 sensors, MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors, crankshaft position sensor with no luck. I bought a MAP sensor, but it is really hard to access, until the other day when I decided to crack into it. Very hard to access, and when I finally found it, it seemed to be loose. I could not remove it without taking a whole lot of the car off, so I first tried snapping it into place which seemed to work. At the same time, I pulled the branded fuel rail sensor off and replaced it with the original one as it seemed the P0171/4 fault codes began with that change. And I filled the tank because it has the common fuel gauge problem, and it was possible the fault codes were caused not by a sensor, but limited fuel flow, although the Autel MP808 live mode showed within-range fuel pressure.

The upshot was no error codes and no heat soak, meaning one of those three must have done the trick. Unfortunately, I did not do one at a time, so I don't know which of the three was the cure.

Long story to answer your question... I did not get very far. But I got far enough into it to realise I now need to groom the Freelander 2 and sell it, and instead put the money in my 1982 G Wagon that has no sensors, no computers, no power windows, power door locks, cruise control or any of these modern wonders intended to force us to never own a car over ten years of age unless one either has a brilliant independent workshop nearby or buys the tools and gets the training the dealership had back when they supported that era of car.

The Freelander 2 is a nice car. It rides nice. It has a Land Rover look, and from what I read, it is the most reliable Land Rover since they went electronic. But mine will be going up for sale. It's in better shape than when I bought it... rebuilt steering rack, pump and new filter to cure the known problem that the Ford racks are a defective design, JDM radio replaced with Bluetooth 7" display with Android Auto/Apple Car Play, reverse camera, all new sensors, and some other stuff I can't remember. The body is in remarkable shape as most that era have parking lot dings, and it is in Jeremy Clarkson Green (Tonga Green) paint. No sunroof to leak, no towbar, less to go wrong than the HSE version, and 156,000 km, which is reasonable for that era.

So, if anyone in New Zealand loves Freelander 2's, send me a PM. Price will be very reasonable as I only want to get my money back, not including the labour, and I got a bargain when I purchased it because it had failed warrant of fitness on the steering.

Click image to enlarge