Might be, but to determine that, I'd like to see the top 100 failures on a Freelander 2 and how often they occurred on any members cars here. Which goes to say that is a pretty unusable question. So I'll leave it here. Anyway, I think it's not a question of what we start with, but what condition and standard we bring it to and how it performs from then on. Our FL2 never used any oil for example. And if you know this engine, from say Volvo, it is likely to use oil, if not serviced. But our car was serviced (in Greece) from the start.

I test drove it last night after having made all the engine work and coolant system work. A 170 kilometers trip on small narrow b-roads and I am happy to report it did not loose any more coolant and the engine is nice and silent as per usual and responds well to throttle input (speed).

As a small testimony to my earlier statement of sub standard parts manufactures, I bought new cam chain gliders (original), and the long one is not correctly made. It bends a little too much, so that upon installation, it cannot sit tight. It is supposed to click in place tight, not rattle when installed. No way I am taking a chance on that So another one is now installed. And that works. Hmm... quality parts? I'll leave it up to you to decide. Anyway, there is now a new cam chain, tensioner and gliders installed
Sorry to hijack the thread, so back to topic.
Cheers,
Redfox.

Good morning Redfox,

Just read this morning’s post……

“Anyway, I think it’s not a question of what we start with, but what condition & standard we bring it up to & how it performs from then on “
You have decided to bring this FL2 back to near new standard…..very laudable but you acquired a badly neglected FL2 that required a lot of work & money to restore…….had you acquired a better maintained & cared for LR2 it wouldn’t have needed so much attention /money spent on it to bring it up to thé very high standard that you want. If you want to spend the money & you enjoy doing the work more power to your elbow……!
Cheers , Pete FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Oxonpete explains it well.

Different owners have different priorities, and the FL2, at up to 18years old, is moving away from front line everyday primary car for many people, to a more secondary role.

I have seen the profile of owners (and FL2 use) change gradually since I joined the Forum, from FL2s used as main and only cars and garage maintained, to now becoming hobby or family second cars which are home or third party maintained.

I still belong in the first group and my FL2 is our only car and still LR Dealer maintained and warranted.
So far (touch wood) it has given me very little worry and the few problems have been dealt with by the dealer.
If I have an observation/wish then it is that JLR spend a bit more money and improve their spares situation. I believe that they, and nearly everyone else, have taken the 'Just in Time' philosophy to the extremes.

PS As info to the original OP and question, my nuts are not swollen.

It is my belief, and hope, that the FL2 will eventually become a classic.
So hopefully some people. like Redfox, are restoring FL2s to new status for that future. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 84k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

All cars need to be maintained otherwise it's going to bite you on the bum later.

We have always used an independent mechanic. The same with previous cars.

I always get the mechanic to thoroughly check the car both before & after a long outback trip.

We do "push" the car, being at maximum payload. Also on some shocking roads, but let tyres down. But we never thrash the car & also give it & us regular breaks under those conditions. We just don't want a bigger problem later.

I have always been a person who "listens" to the car. So am pretty in tune if something doesn't seem quite right. & Sort it out right away.


In the outback one of the roof rack bolts snapped. Packed towels under the roof rack. Got as much off the roof as possible.

We able to fix the bolt & modify the roof rack with an M10 bolt at the next town. It was quite a bit of surgery, but it worked well.

Next trip carry spare bits. Another bolt broke but easy to fix this time. Also made adapters to go back to the M6 bolts.

Then fixed the underlying problems with the roof rack.


Speaking of wheel nuts. We do plug tyre leaks in situ where possible. That is easier than getting a 30 kg wheel on & off the roof! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Just for closure.
I now have a full compliment of shiny wheel nuts that all fit the wheelbrace and any normal socket. They even look better too. As the car now lives in sunny France (sans sel sur les routes), I'm hoping that the same level of corrosion is a thing of the past. Life is an uphill struggle. Only the gradient varies.