Hello.

My air con has stopped working.

The light comes on but the air is not cold. I bought a kit to top it up thinking the gas was low.

I connected the gauge expecting to see low pressure.

The lkit shows that it should be between 25 and 45 psi. Mine read 200 psi.

I presume that this must indicate some kind of unusual fault.

Any ideas? Thanks mark.

There are so many variables with your issue, that in my opinion, you should take it to your local aircon shop & get it looked at by people that (hopefully) a: know what they are doing & b: have the equipment to do the job properly (& legally)! They should be able to pinpoint the problem quickly.

Having said all that, you clearly have an issue with the system. You can carry out some simple diagnosis yourself by checking things like the compressor clutch operation, pressure switch operation etc. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Mrdeli100 wrote:

Hello.

My air con has stopped working.

The light comes on but the air is not cold. I bought a kit to top it up thinking the gas was low.

I connected the gauge expecting to see low pressure.

The lkit shows that it should be between 25 and 45 psi. Mine read 200 psi.

I presume that this must indicate some kind of unusual fault.

Any ideas? Thanks mark.

The AC compressor has clutch on the front of it that is magnetically engaged.

For the 3.2 I can see the clutch and when it is spinning freely only the outside of the pulley spins and when it is switched on the inside also spins.

I don’t know how hard it is to see on the Diesel but I would start there, can you see it? Is it engaging?


Also the radiator fan should come on if you turn on the AC, does it?

You can check the pressure in the morning when everything is cold and it will be lower.


If you over fill the system, which you likely did, then the low pressure side will be too high which will limit your cooling but you need the compressor to work first before you can see the reduction in performance


Good luck

Paul

Ps I replaced the compressor on my 2008 already

Thanks so much for your help.

I will start by looking to see if the clutch is engaging and report back.

Much appreciated - Mark.

So just checked and the clutch is not engaging.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

I have the same year model as you but petrol.

Have you checked the fuse in the engine bay. F13 10 amps

Edit: F14 15 amps says 'Engine management. Air conditioning' so check that one as well. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I agree with lite water check the fuse and possibly a relay (I am traveling and I only have my phone so I can’t check the schematics)


Also do the following

1. Turn on the engine and switch off the heater/AC in the vehicle

2. Confirm the radiator fan is off

3. Turn on the fan in the LR2 to high and set the temperature to the lowest setting and make sure that you don’t have the light for ECO on because that shuts off the AC

4. Did the radiator fan turn on?

Good luck

Paul

This thread has lots of information on the Climate Control System
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40192.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Mrdeli100 wrote:

So just checked and the clutch is not engaging.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

Mrdeli100 wrote:

So just checked and the clutch is not engaging.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

So I’ve checked the fuses - but these are all fine.

I’ve noticed that my radiator cooling fans are not coming on. I’ve read that they should with the air con - could this be the problem or do they only lock in when it is very hot?

Thanks mark.

The fan for the radiator should come on

Try a hard reset and then do the test again


A hard reset is achieved by removing the battery cables and letting the voltage drop to zero (about 30 minutes should work). Then reconnect.

Lower a window and leave the bonnet open


Good luck

Paul

PS if it doesn’t work then you will need to look at the thread posted above about the HVAC system. I suspect that you may have a faulty module

Thanks all. I’ve ordered a new fan module so hoping that will solve the fan issue and also the aircon in one go. Fingers crossed 🤞

200 PSI on the low-side seems way too high. I cant see changing the Fan controller fixing that - the fans not running is more likely to be a symptom rather than a cause. [I had this with my 9N3 Polo - no ac, no fans running. changed the fan module, no change, changed the high pressure valve, no change - turned out to be the PWM control valve built into the compressor was stuck ...]

Was the 200 PSI reading taken with the engine & ac running or switched off?
Leave the car overnight (to allow the low side & highside to reach a resting pressure) and use your refill kit to check the low-side pressure with the engine and ac switched off - do not add gas. Should be resting around 90 - 100 PSI). If it reads 200 PSI at rest, take it to an ac specialist as the thing is way overcharged & there may be damage as a result. Then start the car and switch the ac on (set to max. cooling) and check the pressure again. If the pressure rises on the low side then there is a fault with the evaporator, expansion valve or receiver/dryer. If the pressure drops (slightly) then the fault is more likely the compressor, but the expansion valve cant be ruled out..

Far better to take it to an ac specialist to diagnose. You get the benefit of the system being vacc'd down and recharged properly too...