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RichardOostdam



Member Since: 24 Apr 2025
Location: Kimberley
Posts: 1

South Africa 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Ipanema Sand
Gearbox Removal

Hi guys,

I recently purchased a 2013 LR2 automatic. The rear main oil seal is leaking & I need to pull the gearbox to replace it.
I have a feeling the PCV unit is blocked, and therefore building up pressure inside the engine, causing the oil to push past the seal.
What is your opinion / experience in this regard?

Quick question:
I saw a video of removing the gearbox. I assume I must remove the sub-frame. Does the sub-frame support the engine? Will I therefore need to support the engine with an overhead block & tackle?

Also, in the video, the guy removed the front bumper & headlights. Surely I don't have to do that as well?

Do I need to drain the gearbox oil (I assume the oil will run out once the propshafts have been removed).
But is it necessary to drain the Haldex (Transfer) box as well?

I assume the Transfer box will take standard gear oil, while the gearbox will take ATF?

Thanks for any tips and ideas from your side.

Much appreciate it. Richard

Post #449017 24th Apr 2025 1:55 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5303

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

"I assume the Transfer box will take standard gear oil, while the gearbox will take ATF? "

The autobox , PTU (transfer box), haldex and rear diff all take different oils.

Your user manual indicates which spec is required (your autobox will have the later Aisin oil spec like mine.

Autobox : ATF Nippon AW-1 , T-WS (JWS-3324), the earlier autobox had a different JWS spec)

PTU: Castrol BOT 118/95+ 75W90, or equivalent

Rear Diff : Castrol EPX 80W90 GL5 or equivalent Jules

Post #449020 24th Apr 2025 11:15 pm
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Jagracer



Member Since: 22 Feb 2019
Location: east anglia
Posts: 207

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

To add to this. Lift the front wheels eight inches off the ground, put axle stands under the floor. remove the wheels. Drop the subframe at the rear two bolts, dismantle both lower balljoints, lower antiroll bars, and both track rod ends. Disconnect the lower pinchbolt from the steering column, undo the drive shaft centre bolts. Pull out the lower struts, and tap gently on the driveshaft ends to remove them. Short driveshaft remove, longer one gives room for bell housing bolts. Remove battery and carrier, inlet trunking, gearbox cables and wiring plugs, remove the starter motor. Take out all the bell housing bolts, remove the gearbox mounting under the fuse box. Support under the sump base on a trolley jack to lower the engine slightly. Pull out the gearbox under the wheel arch, its heavy. You might need a new coupling to the Angle box too. If its rusty, check the angle box bearings and change the oil in it. Removing the lower strut will give room. reverse to replace. A nice Saturday afternoon job. I find that one gets half way, it rains, the dog comes and lies on you, the cat Censored under the engine, and the wife wants to go to the beach, or have picnic. If you have the money, take it to a specialist, and watch the football, etc. Hope that gives you an idea what is involved. Enjoy!

Post #449030 25th Apr 2025 4:37 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5303

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

The last gearbox I removed was on Skoda Fabia VRS and that was heavy enough.
Be careful.
The gearbox slipped whilst I was lying underneath and pushed my shoulder backwards -stretching my brachial plexus which then caused awful neuropathic pain for months - necessitating MRI and nerve conduction studies . Luckily I made a full recovery Jules

Post #449048 26th Apr 2025 3:55 am
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