Hi All,
My battery was going flat during the cold snap and my mechanic but the battery on trickle charge overnight. The car would not lock the following day so he replaced the battery. Now the car will not start at all. The dash lights up and chimes but the left hand immobiliser light stays illuminated. There is a relay clicking in the passenger footwear but car does not turn over.
He has tried disconnecting the battery again, locking/unlocking process but no joy.
JLR cannot see the car until 28th March.
Does anyone have any other ideas my mechanic can try? Thanks
Freelander 2i6 2007 120k

Try another good tested battery,don't recharge the old one

t00true wrote:

Hi All,
My battery was going flat during the cold snap and my mechanic but the battery on trickle charge overnight. The car would not lock the following day so he replaced the battery. Now the car will not start at all. The dash lights up and chimes but the left hand immobiliser light stays illuminated. There is a relay clicking in the passenger footwear but car does not turn over.
He has tried disconnecting the battery again, locking/unlocking process but no joy.
JLR cannot see the car until 28th March.
Does anyone have any other ideas my mechanic can try? Thanks
Freelander 2i6 2007 120k

Just because you put a new battery in doesn't mean it is any good.

Have you tried jump starting. Easiest thing to do first.

One cell of the new battery could be stuffed. So voltage may appear reasonable when the battery is doing nothing.

Is the battery something like a Varta 800CCA silver, & not some under sized cheap "no name" make. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

make sure battery is good,then lock and unlock car after 10 mins,if that is not working try locking for 24 hrs then open boot first with fob then doors.

Clicking relay in the passenger footwell is often the steering lock playing up,take key out move steering wheel and try again.

A bit more information on the passenger fuse box: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34833.html

Easy enough to check the relays. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

With 'Battery Induced' Electronic Module problems, I have found that I sometimes need to 'Double Lock' the car and leave it 10 minutes or so to clear the errors.

I don't know why it needs to go to this level to reset error, perhaps it needs this time to shut down all it's systems. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks for all of your replies, they are appreciated. I return from holiday next Friday and will through your suggestions and let you know the outcome. Thanks Tony

Tony did you have any joy in resolving your issue? I have something similar which might turn out to be the starter switch or more drastically, the steering lock.

Stephen.

Further to my car not starting after the battery was replaced.
I replaced the drivers door actuator which has enabled the immobiliser light to go out but car will still not start.
There is power from the battery to the starter motor when you bridge the two. There is power to the stater solenoid. We have tried to lock/unlock 5 times, tap the starter motor with a hammer, jump start it, connect the battery without it sparking with no joy. When you turn the car on, you get the HDC fault system not available message. The engine and battery light stay on until yoe press the start button again and the battery light goes off. The code reader has cleared many faults but 2 still remain. See photos Any ideas anyone?

There is a starter relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Can you hear it activating? If you get power to the starter positive terminal then this relay is probably working ok.

Can you hear the starter solenoid (located on the side of the starter) activating when you try to try to start? If it does not activate, you may have a poor engine earth. If it does activate, it may not have sufficient current to fully make good electrical contact, again poor earthing may be the cause. Some owners fit a second earth wire (direct from battery to starter motor bolt) to eliminate poor earthing issues.

It may be the solenoid contactors are pitted and corroded. I have experienced this cause and at first the symptoms suggested a flat/weak battery. In this case, the starter solenoid contactors can be replaced with a relatively cheap kit.

Is there a really good earth path back to the battery. There was a forum member that had an earth lead that had broken down inside the insulation giving random faults but the cable carried current when checked for continuity but broke down under load. All kinds of random problems were caused and 2 years of in and out of LR dealers as the car was under warranty. That eventual fix was a new design earth path from battery to chassis with an extra earth path. Many owners of older FL2’s fitted their own second earth lead from battery to starter motor bolt.

Thanks for the tips on the earthing issue. I have one more session of trying to fix it with my mechanic before it goes to the JLR dealer and a hefty bill comes my way.

To check for an earthing issue, try using one wire of a pair of jump leads, connecting the battery negative with a starter motor bolt.