I’ve got a 2007 HSE with c. 156k miles on which suffered from a broken exhaust camshaft at the end of last year. I’m hoping this thread can serve as help for others and also to answer a few queries.

I was driving along on a dual carriageway when the car went into reduced engine performance mode and then just cut out. At first I thought it was just a fuel sender issue as a few days before the car had been hesitant to show the fuel level. Due to the location where it broke down the police came out and saw it was saying it had no fuel. This was odd as I knew it had over half a tank in.

It was recovered to a garage and they eventually diagnosed the non starting as a cracked exhaust camshaft. I was quoted over £2k to fix it so at that point I called it quits and had it recovered back to my garage to attempt the repair myself - my thinking being it’s already on the verge of needing a replacement engine so I should at least attempt it. It’s a second car for me so I’m not reliant on it but I would like it to go again. I’m pretty mechanically minded but I’ve never done anything this deep into an engine. Only a few weeks before I replaced the steering rack on it so I don’t want that effort to go to waste.

The garage it was at stripped it fairly well down which is a blessing and a curse as I’m sure there’s some bits I won’t know where they go.

My main question at the moment is about the engine timing as I know this is critical but there’s a general lack of info online.

I’ve attempted to lock the crankshaft and camshaft with their relevant pins but I just couldn’t get both in at the same time. Al I able to simply lock the crankshaft up. Remove the timing belt. Then remove the camshaft cover, remove the cams, put the crankshaft into the “safe position”. Then replace the camshafts, lock them into the correct position. Then replace the timing belt?

Any input from people who have done this repair would be appreciated!

Not replaced the camshaft but have changed the timing belt etc.

I would NOT be happy just using the long, thin timing pin to lock the crank as it might well bend, especially when removing the crank pulley bolt. IMO you should also use a locking tool to engage the flywheel starter motor ring gear, after removing the starter motor. Jules

Yep - I’ve got the flywheel locking tool as well - so that’ll definitely be used!

Don't know if it helps but I take it you have downloaded the workshop manual

Last edited by I Like Chips on 5th Feb 2024 8:32 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Dont worry about locking the cams as they are coming out and can be timed up after they are replaced. You should be fine with the crank and starter motor locking pins.
A word of warning, the crankshaft pulley bolt is f##kin tight. A 6 point impact socket is a good investment for doing the timing belt on these. It's recommended to replace the bolt as well. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I Like Chips wrote:

Don't know if it help but I take it you have downloaded the workshop manual

Bobupndown wrote:

Dont worry about locking the cams as they are coming out and can be timed up after they are replaced. You should be fine with the crank and starter motor locking pins.
A word of warning, the crankshaft pulley bolt is f##kin tight. A 6 point impact socket is a good investment for doing the timing belt on these. It's recommended to replace the bolt as well.

If you can get hold of one a torque multiplier makes the crank bold so easy to undo

Gibsonc wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Dont worry about locking the cams as they are coming out and can be timed up after they are replaced. You should be fine with the crank and starter motor locking pins.
A word of warning, the crankshaft pulley bolt is f##kin tight. A 6 point impact socket is a good investment for doing the timing belt on these. It's recommended to replace the bolt as well.

This is super helpful thank you - it made sense I could time it up afterwards but good to have it confirmed.

Is it correct I shouldn’t use my impact wrench on the crankshaft bolt? The timing belt was replaced less than 3k miles ago so at least it shouldn’t be seized on there.

I imagine that if youve properly locked the crankshaft then a impact driver should be fine. But If you haven't then I could imagine an impact driver bending the timing pin used to set the position prior to locking. Some people omit the locking tool and rely on the pin - personally I wouldnt do that. Jules

Gibsonc wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

Dont worry about locking the cams as they are coming out and can be timed up after they are replaced. You should be fine with the crank and starter motor locking pins.
A word of warning, the crankshaft pulley bolt is f##kin tight. A 6 point impact socket is a good investment for doing the timing belt on these. It's recommended to replace the bolt as well.

This is super helpful thank you - it made sense I could time it up afterwards but good to have it confirmed.

Is it correct I shouldn’t use my impact wrench on the crankshaft bolt? The timing belt was replaced less than 3k miles ago so at least it shouldn’t be seized on there.

I preemptively replaced mine during lockdown. The key is to get the LR part which supersedes the original chill cast camshaft . In the aftermarket you'll find chill cast camshafts out there. The correct part has a a steel slotted endcap . This means the drive slot for the HP pump is a slot in steel and much happier with the percussive stresses than the cast part which shattered in your case.

If you're replacing the injector supply pipes (as recommended) then you'll find Ford equivalents cheaper. I was surprised just how quickly the HP pump and injectors self bled. Probably no more than a 15 - 20 sec crank.

Check for wear on the valve heads and lifters, elsewhere you'll find a thread on excessive wear causes the collets to fall out and the valve drops .........

Yep I’ve got the superseded camshafts to go in!

I’m taking it very slow getting apart having never done anything like this before. I’ve got the cambelt off and believe I now need to put the engine in the “safe position” - is this as simple as spinning the crankshaft 90 degrees backwards from TDC?

I haven’t decided to replace the fuel lines but did think about it. This is a second car for me so budget is a consideration to a degree. My thinking being if they don’t leak then great but if they do then it’s not a massive strip down to replace them. Perhaps bad logic though?

Gibsonc wrote:

Is it correct I shouldn’t use my impact wrench on the crankshaft bolt? The timing belt was replaced less than 3k miles ago so at least it shouldn’t be seized on there.

AndyP wrote:

If you're replacing the injector supply pipes (as recommended) then you'll find Ford equivalents cheaper.