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Home > General > PAS help after flywheel/clutch replacement please 🙏
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DanHughes92



Member Since: 28 Jan 2024
Location: North Wales
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Zermatt Silver
PAS help after flywheel/clutch replacement please 🙏

Hi all. I'm after some help on a power steering issue if possible please.

Around 6 months ago I done the rack, new reservoir & new fluid. I've had no issues & all was good. I recently done my flywheel/clutch & had to have the PAS lines disconnected at the rack. All was fine until around a day later & then I felt a notch in my steering a few times. The next day it went all together. So i bought a new bottle, full flush of the system again & it was driveable. I did again have a slight notch now & again though & then yesterday the steering solid.

I've checked my old rack & done some research on the FL2 Facebook group & my old rack does not have the one way/check valve in the HP hose hole at the rack. I tried to remove said valve in my current rack thinking that may be the problem, but I'm fearing damaging it as I could not get it out (the ball moves freely so I doubt it would be stopping fluid passing through) I wanted it out as re assurance anyway. I know some members run without them on the Facebook group with no issues. Anyway... I've ordered a new pump & new bottle & some fluid to rule out the pump intermittently failing (if that can happen) The aux belt is pretty new & doesn't look to be slipping on the pump pulley etc, but I believe they have a microscopic valve inside the pump? hence ordering a new one to rule it out. If this doesn't work, then I'm guessing it's got to be the rack, even though its only 6 months old. This issue only started since the clutch change & having the pipes of at the rack, which is just strange to me.

Has anyone heard of or experienced similar that could help or give me any tips please? I've also bought new o ring seals incase some air is seeping past the seals of the lines over a day or two, but I'm not sure this is possible for it to work for 2 days then die? It's a simple system but it's causing me major issues at the minute. Does anyone have any tips to removing the one way/check valve (picture attatched) as I said, the ball does move in & out. So I tried to place a pick in & pull it, but it will not budge at all. The bottom line which is the one that clips onto the bracket of the top HP line I can also move once its in position & bolted down against the bracket. I can't pull it in & out but I can move it around (as in spin) with my fingers & I'm not sure if this should be tight once bolted down against the bracket? (possibly o ring seal has worn) I'm not sure.

Any help/tips/advice would be great & thanks in advance.

I also should mention I bled it up with the old & new bottle side by side with one pipe connected to each. Once new bottle full, started engine & done lock to lock with the car on the ground (as I believe it needs pressure to open the valve) & then took it for a spin & it's all good. The same way as beavis pits does it on Youtube as i know who he is from the facebook group. The next time I drive it I will sometimes feel the notch at certain times. Then after 2 days it's dead. Also just to add, the pump isn't noisy at all. I'm replacing it to just try & rule it out.

Post #438878 28th Jan 2024 2:19 am
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1442

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

What fluid did you use

Post #438879 28th Jan 2024 9:17 am
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DanHughes92



Member Since: 28 Jan 2024
Location: North Wales
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Zermatt Silver

Genuine fluid, the green stuff.

Post #438899 28th Jan 2024 8:48 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1442

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Apart from replacing a pipe and several reservoirs in doing the usual fluid changes I have never had a problem

However reading through lots of posts on unsolved steering problems usually ending up with people throwing parts at the system until it's fixed. Also doing so can result in more problems along the way if the system isn't flushed to get rid of stuff like broken/worn seal bits.

I am not looking forward to the time when my system goes down

Post #438903 28th Jan 2024 10:25 pm
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