Happy New year everyone.

Just tried to start 2014 SD Diesel Freelander 2, after it's sat for about 2 weeks.

The car is generating multiple errors on dash.

Transmission fault

EBD Fault

Stability control system fault

Immobiliser fault

Coolent sensor Fault

Steering locked

The car has always ran perfectly no issues whatsoever. I had the RAC out they seem to think water has got into the electrics. I think they might be correct as we have recently had massive downpours.

The guy couldn't get into the diagnostics either. Light doors alarm all seem to work start/stop flicks needles and light. Obviously it won't start or even try.

Can anyone shed any light on it please.

What the battery voltage? (While cranking and not cranking)

Feel around in the footwells for wetness.

Does it have a sunroof? Any actual signs of water ingress?

Thanks Dave

I will check tomorrow morning in the light.

But the battery on charge, get a Ctek

Hi,
Thanks for reply.

Battery is showing about 12.2V didn't bother cranking it as that seems really low.

I have a CTEK from a motorbike just put car on charge.

Fingers crossed for the morning

Thanks for your help all.

Dave^ wrote:

What the battery voltage? (While cranking and not cranking)

Feel around in the footwells for wetness.

Does it have a sunroof? Any actual signs of water ingress?

Thanks Ian

Will have a look in the morning. Battery is at least 2 years old minimum.

Link to good article on sunroof and its drain-pipe that disconnects and floods footwells.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic26799.html?highlight=sunroof

Link to my experiences with an old (but 'Kwikfit testing Good' Battery. -not quite the same problem as yours but shows battery testing may not always show real world capacity to start a heavy diesel engine whilst retaining enough voltage to power up electronics.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=noco FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

75AH battery is not enough for the Freelander.

In the outback 1000km from help one really neads the battery to be one less of an issue.

I have 4 x 26AH batteries for accessories which can be used for jump starting.

You will be surprised at the number of idiots in remote areas with tyres & batteries that don't work (10 year old tyres full or cracks & spare in worse shape & flat). No jumper leads, tyre repair plugs & compressor. Darwinian stuff at its best.

Fing idiots that deserve to die under 50°C situations... & no thanks when you have saved them! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Evening everyone,
Slight update.

Checked carpets in the front all dry as is boot. Car doesn't have sunroof.

Battery now shows 13V

Removed both battery cables and shorted them to reset modules.

Charged battery with CTEK it's only a 0.8A one sadly showing battery as fully charged after 24 hours.

Which is probably right as its only for upto 32Ah ones. So put it back on charge again.


All the needles flick over go back then you get steering locked comes up and dash goes blank in middle.

If you start without brake pedal you get all the random error codes transmission, EBD, ABS, immobiliser, thermostat.

You can hear the relays click when you press start but no starter doesn't even try. I believe the RAC guy got it to try to start by jumping it sadly I was at work at the time so I do t know exactly.

As previously linked battery is showing as good got report from RAC too saying its ok. Do you think it's dead or this could be the cause?

Thanks again

Steering column locked usually points to the lock playing up try an emulator see if it cures it.

IanMetro wrote:

Link to good article on sunroof and its drain-pipe that disconnects and floods footwells.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic26799.html?highlight=sunroof

Link to my experiences with an old (but 'Kwikfit testing Good' Battery. -not quite the same problem as yours but shows battery testing may not always show real world capacity to start a heavy diesel engine whilst retaining enough voltage to power up electronics.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=noco

That's interesting, because my battery was initially showing a really low voltage and shows full charge when it should be no where near.

I might buy a battery to check it out. It doesn't get used right once a week then left for a week not good for battery heath.

Thanks again all for your help

It might be worth getting hold of a battery charger to use to maintain the new battery. Land Rover have sold badged versions of Ctek battery chargers for this very purpose and use them in their showrooms.

Yes definitely.

I probably killed the battery to be honest. Hopefully new battery will sort it.

I will check harness under air box for damage too.

It's concerning me that the RAC guy couldn't get into the diagnostics.