About 2 weeks ago I put the car in drive and it barely started moving, even when pressing the throttle it wouldn’t accelerate. After about 20 seconds it woke up and started driving normally again. then it proceeded to be fine for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday about halfway through my drive home my dashboard lit up with HDC fault, an ABS light and terrain systems unavailable. This issue isn’t showing a code on my OBD reader and these lights have remained on. ever since these warnings appeared the pulling away issue happens every time I set off on a journey, however once it’s gotten over the first delayed set off the car drives absolutely fine for the rest of the journey

Vehicle: 2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 automatic

First I would try a hard reset and then look at the battery how old is it is it fully charged and is the alternator giving its full out put ? low voltage can? cause these issues. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

On the HDC and other faults Rommel has the first and most obvious steps in his post.
On pulling away, did the engine speed increase as you pressed the throttle?

Another vote for getting a new battery.
The FL2 is known to give random fault indications during the start up phase as low voltage causes errors while the electronics are initialising.
If your battery is more than 3 to 4 years old, even if it passes a quick garage load test, it is worth changing.

As the mornings get colder, I am sure that we will get quite a few posts about random fault indications and starting problems, whilst using older (passes garage check?) batteries. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

As we don’t use our fl2 that much I give the battery a blast with one of those smart chargers every so often, seems to prolong the battery’s life.

This is my thread describing my battery woes.
After reading some of the replies with methods of prolonging the battery life, I bought 'state of the art' Battery Charger and Lithium Booster. These worked very well but in the end I bought a New Battery for a quieter, more reliable life.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=battery

Click image to enlarge

We also get use out of the charger by doing the caravan battery as well during the winter months. About my mechanical limitations.🤣

Hi thanks for all the responses will do some fault diagnosis on battery/alternator outputs in response to BossBobs question no the RPM was not building as I pressed the accelerator

I think the lack of any urgency in throttle response is likely to be 'Limp Home' mode has kicked in due to temporary electronic fault. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Have a look here - https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic5444.htm...p;start=15

So issue update having read most responses to change the battery I went ahead and fitted a new one and the issue persists. I have since gone over the terminals with a multi meter getting 13v engine off and 14+v with it running so confident the alternator is working satis. The issue hasn’t really changed from before, I get in and the ABS light on and HDC fault caption followed by setting off where it will not pick up speed for the first 50yards whilst the yellow warning triangle flashes it will then go solid and the brake warning light illuminates with terrain system faulty caption then it drives normally

You need to run a diagnostic on the whole vehicle. Several module errors could be responsible for these sorts of problems, so had a diagnostic done and see what comes up. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Ran through with an OBD2 reader no fault codes showing