My ECU & N373 valve is on it's way back to me after Matthew tested the valve, which turned out to be ok, therefore he has implemented the scrabbling fix to the ECU, once it is fitted i will know for sure what is really going on with the Haldex.

Matthew phoned me and we had a long chat about Haldex's very knowledgeable chap, knows his onions, today the rear diff/Haldex i bagged for myself arrived.

It has had a clean and tomorrow i will set about taking it apart to find out how these Diff and Haldex really work Gen 4 mind you Matthew more or less told me all you need to know about them

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I also partly did a practice run on drilling the drain hole for the diff.
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Not completely drilled through because i want to remove the Haldex first, hoping it will allow me to see the drill break through.
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I will then tap it and fit one of the drain plugs i have purchased.

Hi guys & gals.
I have now changed the oil in my PTU, rear diff, Haldex, engine, so all that is left is the Auto gearbox oil, which one of these below would you use please all comments welcome form you knowledgeable owners.
Millers
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165616935535

Febi
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154614515678

Smith & Allan
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253298011767

Smith & Allan.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302556071897

My14 SD4 2.2 diesel 190

What do we think?


https://www.smithandallan.com/automatic-tr...mith-allan

Last edited by Arctic on 8th Dec 2023 7:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I'm a fan of S&A

You need to read the oil specs.


The FL2 uses a Aisin Warner F21 autobox

So I use S&A Tranguard ATF LV Synthetic : spec: Aisin Warner JWS 3324 for my 2104 autobox.



S&A ATF M1375.4 is a synthetic automatic transmission fluid specially formulated for use in ZF 6 speed automatic transmissions (note -not in the FL2) Jules

Quote:

I'm a fan of S&A

You need to read the oil specs.


The FL2 uses a Aisin Warner F21 autobox

So I use S&A Tranguard ATF LV Synthetic : spec: Aisin Warner JWS 3324 for my 2104 autobox.

Hi there. Sorry im not sure if i missed it but you got the scrabble fox on the ecu did it work ?? You also changed out the mannol oil did that make any difference? I used the same oil not aure if mby i shld swap it out and see if any difference or get this scrabble ecu remap thing. Would appreciate your advice thanks.

Arctic wrote:

Quote:

I'm a fan of S&A

You need to read the oil specs.


The FL2 uses a Aisin Warner F21 autobox

So I use S&A Tranguard ATF LV Synthetic : spec: Aisin Warner JWS 3324 for my 2104 autobox.

Hi jules thank you as always with your input to the thread /post it's appreciated, therefore the oil below would be your choice of Auto gearbox oil for the FL MY14
https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smit...fluid-4030

Quote:

Mugatu78 wrote:

Hi there. Sorry im not sure if i missed it but you got the scrabble fox on the ecu did it work ?? You also changed out the mannol oil did that make any difference? I used the same oil not aure if mby i shld swap it out and see if any difference or get this scrabble ecu remap thing. Would appreciate your advice thanks.

[quote][quote="jules"][quote="Arctic"]

Quote:

I'm a fan of S&A

You need to read the oil specs.


The FL2 uses a Aisin Warner F21 autobox

So I use S&A Tranguard ATF LV Synthetic : spec: Aisin Warner JWS 3324 for my 2104 autobox.[/quote]


Hi jules thank you as always with your input to the thread /post it's appreciated, therefore the oil below would be your choice of Auto gearbox oil for the FL MY14
https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smith-allan-atf-lv-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-4030[/quote]

Yes - that is what I used.[/quote]

I removed the Haldex gen 4 from the spare rear diff i had with the full intention of taking it all apart including the clutch plates, which in the end like you i did not do, the main reason was that luck as it the Haldex looked like it had not been long since the filter was changed, the oil being really clean.

I made a bridge for the Diff/haldex to rest on.
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loosened all the filler bolts, and the bolts holding the Haldex to the diff.
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you can see the filter cap is new and a proper one with the number marking in it (6).
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Remove the bracket from the diff.
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Had my catch bowl ready under the bridge for any oil that came out.
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With all four bolts removed i teased the Haldex from the Diff.
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Oil slowly came out as the Haldex was parted from the Diff.
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oil does not look that bad.
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Haldex now free from the Differential.
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Inside the Diff looks clean also.
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I thought this looks promising the spare diff& haldex i bagged is looking good, moved the haldex into the shed.
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Note the original large rubber seal is square as opposed to new ones which are round.
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Both plugs had broken tags, not the end of the world, shows that someone has had the pump off or even the Haldex off before.
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Next task was to remove he pump even though the small flange is still in place.
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There are two small 10 torx holding the outer case of the pump, i undid these.
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This helps to clear the flange which i have marked with white tippex.
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I intend to grind a chamfer on the edge for future removal.
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The two torx out and the outer case prised up, inside is the magnet and brushes.
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There is a seal also which you can see in these photos.
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Lifting the outer case allows it to clear the flange.
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You do not pull this off the photo is for showing how it clear the flange only.
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Now you can tap or prise up the pump.
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The pump and the outer case can now be removed as one.
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The pump filter is not that bad either.
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A bit of black goo just inside on the shelf, the oil though looks to be fairly clear.
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Bit of paper towel to stop the gunk from going further into the pump, before i extract it.
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Removed the gunk then took the Haldex back outside to spray some brake cleaner into the pump chamber.
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Pump chamber now nice and clean.
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Need to really clean out the oil lines holes.
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Next removal of the filter cap & the internal filter.
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You can see from these next photos that the cap is an oem original one.
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Quality bolts.
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Number inside the cap copies do not have this.
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Pop the cap off.
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Cap bolts and tools.
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Now you need to remove the plastic seal, there is a stupid tag to try and help get the seal out, but this always snaps.
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You are much better just removing the tag, cut it or break it off, get a point heat it up make an hole.
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Now you put a screw in the seal top, add a bolt to prise off.
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Out pops the seal very easy, this can also be done in situ on the car.
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Oil inside the filter looks to be dark but that is the back ground colour of the filter.
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Clean the excess out from the top, with some paper towel or rag.
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You can now remove the filter.
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As already said the filter looks to be fairly clean ie not that long been changed.
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Filter chamber does not look to bad either.
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The original quality filters have a valve in the end which opens up/ pushes in.
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The Haldex is now ready to be cleaned out properly.
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I will show this below in another post.

This is the follow on from the above, once i had removed the filter, and the pump from the Haldex gen 4 i wanted to clean it the very best i could without removing the clutch plates.

So to do this i decided that i would spray brake cleaner through every hole in the side of the cage which holds the clutch plates.

There are three holes to each section, there are seven sections, marked is section one.
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This was repeated through all 3 holes & the 7 sections.
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Next i cut some 3mm clear tube inserted this into the galleries of the Haldex.
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The clear tube was connected to the brake fluid cleaner spray can, and pressed for at least 25 seconds, until the claner fluid came out of the opposite gallery.
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Also out of the pump chamber & filter chamber, basically a reverse flush.
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Then is was flushed through the other gallery.
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I was then satisfied that was the best i was going to do without removing the clutch plates.
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I left that over night to see if any more old oil drained out, next day Sunday 10th then removed the ECU.
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Removed the ECU.
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This leaves the N373 valve in the Haldex, this needs to be removed.
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The ECU lid comes away with the seal attached.
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Remove the seal and check inside all is ok no bent pins ect,
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A good grip of the N373 valve with some rubber gloves should see it pull out free.
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You can see there is still oil inside the valve gallery, i was happy to see it was nice and clear.
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The gallery was also clean no black residue.
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I then sprayed the gallery out with the brake cleaner.
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I think that is the best i am going to get it without the clutch plates being done individually if removed and replaced.
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Next i cleaned the diff oils ways etc.

great pics - thanks for putting in the effort to show us  Jules

Brilliant thread. Well done and thanks 👍🏼

Quote:

jules wrote:

great pics - thanks for putting in the effort to show us

Brilliant thread. Well done and thanks 👍🏼

Absolutely fantastic write up Arctic. I'm extremely interested in adding a drain plug to the rear diff and PTU unit.
I'm going to rpleace the oil in the Haldex also I replaced it this time last year with Ravnol but I've done 20,000 miles in it this year so it's due another change but this time using Borgwarner oil.l, I'll most probably replace the filter also. I did notice a terrible noise from the rear the other week when going up a snow covered road it made it up the hill but just concerned about the noise/vibration.

Hi Guy's & gal's

So if you have read my other threads on Haldex & Diff oil changes, you may well know i managed to bag myself a spare rear diff & Haldex from a FL2 2010.



My intentions to learn more about the Haldex and rear diff, if you have read this thread from the beginning you will know i changed out the diff oil by using a pump works fairly well but is slow and time consuming, so the next time the oil change is due it will have been drilled and tapped a drain hole.



I used my spare diff to practice on albeit out of the car, the diff was first clean outside.
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On the diff i have there is an ideal place to put a drain hole and plug, not all diff are the same in this area, it has an oblong flat spot.

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Where my FL2 14 has a round spot for the drain hole in the same place.

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The spare diff cleaned out side, i tried the 12mm drill bit into the hole already there it fits perfect

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I did a little test drill not much.

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The plan was then left for a few days while in concentrated on the Haldex.

With the Haldex sorted and out of the way i then went back to the diff, there are three oil ways in the area where the Haldex bolts to the diff, one is the filler hole.

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I cut some clear tubing which i threaded through the diff filler hole.

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The two other oil ways are in port of the diff & one on the outer edge just inside the diff.

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The clear tube was pushed into these oil galleries.

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The tube was fitted to a can of brake cleaner.

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This was then spayed into the galleries, the fluid came out of the filler plug hole.

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Same from the inner gallery.

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That was allowed to dry out for another couple of days, before the drain hole can be drilled out completely.

Ok so back to the drilling of the drain hole, 12mm drill bit on slow speed in the drill, on a bench in the shed.

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The hole was drilled very slowly checking all the time it was straight.

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The drill bit broke through under control not knowing what is below inside.

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Next it was time to tap the hole with a 14mm-1.5 tap, this again was done slowly and making sure it was straight.

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It was tapped until it came to a stop, more or less the full length of the thread.

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The thread looked nice and clean.

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I had purchased three different drain plugs not knowing the depth.

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The tap was again inserted so the tap showed no thread.

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My thought was the middle plug, would be the best, but i tried them one by one.

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The first one i tried was the Vw Skoda/Audi plug

[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264964143891[/URL]

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That came to a stop and did not mate flat.

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The next one was the middle plug from above, Vauxhall/VW drain sump plug.

[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202853526794[/URL]

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That one went flat has it should.

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The last drain plug was the magnetic one, VW/Vauxhall

[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204575909825[/URL]

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This too would not bottom out flat, it may have if it was tightened down by using a socket but the second one screwed in by hand.

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Therefore the one i thought in the first place fitted best, even though the head is a 22mm would have liked a 17mm or 19mm so have ordered a few more to try waiting on there arrival.

The next step was to remove the bell housing to see what the gears looked like and remove any swarf from drilling, which there was bound to be, maybe doing it is situ on the car with the oil in the diff the swarf would drop out with the oil, i will know that when i come to do mine in the spring.

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The above will be in the next post.

Last edited by Arctic on 9th Jan 2024 12:22 am. Edited 2 times in total