JLR don’t make brake parts. They buy from who ever meets the specifications for the best price! Buy in bulk, put into posh box and charge some poor rich sod a fortune for the same gear they can buy from AF or euro car parts.

I changed to the larger diameter brakes from the i6.
Used new caliper carriers and bolts, original calipers, new EBC pads and new OEM disks from Island4x4.
No problem with contact with disk mud shields.

And new braided stainless hoses. Jules

Hi Jules. Thanks for the reply, always welcome from an experienced FL2 owner. can I ask, did the upgrade make much difference over standard? i tow with mine so assume more braking will be done on the rear. I can only see vented discs on the rear being a huge improvement under towing conditions.

Nodge68 wrote:

The brakes on the FL2 are adequate in normal circumstances, however they aren't any larger than the Ford Mondeo they come from, and the Freelander is some 300kg heavier.
I've no complaints about my brakes, but I did replace the rotors, pads, shoes, cables and calipers when I got it. They've done 16k miles since, and show no signs of overheating. I got mine from AF, but used their own brand which was listed as OE quality, and I don't doubt that. The brakes got much lighter after I replaced everything, so suspect the calipers were to blame, as the pistons and slider pins were stuck fast.

The caliper brackets were cleaned perfectly, but the slides were lubricated with ceramic brake grease. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Tuesday just gone i took the FL2 out for a run has it had not had one in over 10 days, after about 5 miles i was getting the steering wheel wobbling not bad but you could see it and feel it, got worse when i braked, you could feel and see this wobble at around 2000revs in both 3rd or fourth gear, there i was wonder what the heck is that.

When i arrived at my destination, i went round the car and touched each brake disc the drivers side was so hot i could not touch it, the rest i was ok.

Same when i got back home, yesterday, wheel off Caliper off and carrier, pads off and cleaned, but i could not push back the Caliper piston, so used a clamp pushed it back by about 4mm and it was solid could not move it anymore.

After cleaning the carrier, slider pins, and pads put it back together, pressed the brake pedal and the piston moved but it is now locked to the disc, so last night i ordered two new calipers, & carriers, already have new rear of the same so this weekend or early next week i will be swapping them all out, i may even go the whole hog and changed the discs/rotors back and front.

Has Nodge already said been on long enough now i have had the car for 6yrs changed the discs and pads when i first got it, but not the Calipers etc so most likely the ones that came with the car out of the factory FOMOCO on them

I would also change the flexi hose to the calliper. It’s not uncommon for the inner lining to degrade and separate forming effectively a one way valve. Did you slacken the bleed nipple before pushing the piston back in?

Quote:

I would also change the flexi hose to the calliper. It’s not uncommon for the inner lining to degrade and separate forming effectively a one way valve. Did you slacken the bleed nipple before pushing the piston back in?

Advanced factors sell them very reasonable, although a few forum members have upgraded to braided stainless hoses which give a better pedal feel. I’m sure someone will be along shortly with a link for those if you prefer them. Just be careful when undoing the old ones that you don’t damage the rigid pipe in the process and give yourself more headaches. Also be careful when you swap over to not let the brake fluid run out in the master cylinder otherwise you will need to bleed the abs pump and that needs a scan tool gadget to do as far as I can recall.

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/brake-hoses--pipes-1644-c.asp

Advanced factors sell them very reasonable, although a few forum members have upgraded to braided stainless hoses which give a better pedal feel. I’m sure someone will be along shortly with a link for those if you prefer them. Just be careful when undoing the old ones that you don’t damage the rigid pipe in the process and give yourself more headaches. Also be careful when you swap over to not let the brake fluid run out in the master cylinder otherwise you will need to bleed the abs pump and that needs a scan tool gadget to do as far as I can recall.

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/brake-hoses--pipes-1644-c.asp

Quote:

Hi Chris.
Thank you for the link, you should be able to lock off the ABS pump when changing out the hoses, by wedging the brake pedal with a length of wood or a bar if you have one, it should stop any loss from the system, works on the R40