My 2011 SD4 HSE auto with 130k on the clock has the following symptom:
Drive forward, brake, select reverse. Let car inch backwards slowly and no clunk. Accelerate in reverse and clunk from rear. New rear discs, shoe, pads and handbrake cable put on yesterday.
Any thoughts appreciated, i have trawled Internet and heard talk of a diff mounting. It is quite a noise that can be heard outside the car as well, so not a click or whine. Had the Haldex serviced last year and diff is not too old, previous owner had it done.
Thanks in advance for any pointers.

I’m guessing it was OK before the rear brake work, which can only lead to one conclusion surely? (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Sorry should have said rear brakes needed doing and there was a noise there before brakes were done. I assumed new brakes would fix it, but they are now eliminated from being a probable cause.

Driveshaft CV ??

Subframe mounting bushes worn??

Prop UJ?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Thanks Rommel, good suggestions. I am going to my trusted indy later and the more possible causes other than 'haldex' the better! Sounds like something shifting, or freeing itself, so I am doubtful on haldex from what I have read. Your ideas are sound

I had similar noise in another car in the past, it turned out to be worn anti roll bar drop links?

Although they did also clunk a bit over the occasional bump. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks IanMetro

Disconnected haldex, no thunk. We have the culprit! More news next week. Thanks for the suggestions though, wish it were that cheap 🤣

If you get the haldex serviced - ie oil change , filter change and pump filter cleaned it may be OK again. Jules

Badger51 wrote:

I’m guessing it was OK before the rear brake work, which can only lead to one conclusion surely?

Jules- thanks will chat with the garage next week. Hopefully a simple solution, towing the van down the west coast of France in 5 weeks so need it sorted 🤣

It's possible one of the parking brakes is binding slightly. This can cause the shoes to slide on the backplates, making and audible clunk or click. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Thanks Nodge68, garage replaced checked, adjusted to account for that including new handbrake cables. That was my first (cheaper option) hope too.
The garage are aware of Bell Enginerring as well and are a really excellent independent garage themselves. Ottery Motor Services for info if anyone is ever down in this neck of the woods.

Looks like the haldex pump, the garage have the car. Will update this thread when I have a final score!

Pump being replaced, but investigating whole gen 4 units reveal not many places doing them by post with exchange. Garage told me Bell Engineering want to see the car and issue first hand.
Anyone know of any reputable suppliers that don't want £1k plus for an as new guaranteed whole unit? Preferably you have dealt with, as there seem to be a few that just look resprayed with little detail about what has been done to refurb the..