Morning I don't post much, but I have a couple of questions,

I have had an FL2 for about 8 months now, very happy, last week I replaced the rear diff and serviced the haldex, the diff was "chunky" when turning the rear wheels by hand, and slight clicking from the rear on turns, so I replaced the rear diff with a HD rebuilt unit from Bell Engineering, buttery smooth now.
Except I found that I had no rear drive, and of course started poking around the haldex (no errors or codes of course) anyway I realised that when in gear I could still turn the propshaft with the car sitting on the ground, so it is nothing todo with the haldex and it looks like the splines on the transfer box are shot, oddly enough the last owner had it replaced 3 years ago, but the invoice I have included seals for the transfer box so I am assuming the poor guy paid £1700 for a scrap yard box installed.

So I have ordered a rebuilt (and re-splined) box again from Bell Engineering and will swap it out next week,

But does anyone have any tips or write ups, I have found nothing except the workshop manual?
Also does anyone know what grease I should lube the new box splines with?

Thanks

I think that's the problem; the splines dont come greased from JLR.

Personally I'd ask Bell for their advice but I'd have thought any extreme pressure grease would be better than nowt. Jules

Quote:

Volvo does sell a spline grease specifically for the collar sleeve on P2 cars, I mentioned this point a few posts up. it is part number 1161748 aka 31437986.

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Basics: To be called a moly grease it must have a little moly. Most of what you find in the auto parts or hardware stores (such as the ubiquitous Sta-Lube brand) contain between 3% and 5% powdered molybdenum disulfide (moly) by volume. To be called a moly paste it must have at least 50% moly by volume.

Thanks, I have ordered the PTO from Bell Engineering, looks like the sleeve is now on the wet side of the transferbox seal, so no grease needed. but I will not be able to confirm until it shows up and I can look at it

Fingers crossed its not damaged inside the gearbox, I have not seem many reports of that issue.

Has anyone had problems removing the sleeve from the gearbox side, I found a report of a guy who drilled his sleeve put bolts in it, and then used a puller and still couldnt get it out, everything I have found suggests it should just slide out of the gearbox, I dont know if there is a circlip holding it in.

Splines are normally lubricated with a moly based grease, same as that used in CV joints. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

I have confirmed that Bell has re-engineered the transfer case so that the sleeve on the transfer case side is also wet and lubed by the gear oil, genius if you ask me.

So fingers crossed it is not stripped on the gearbox side (I have only found one instance of Google searches where someone confirmed that the gearbox was stripped)

I had to replace that sleeve and it was extremely difficult as it was seized on. I was unable to pull it out in situ, so ended up taking the gearbox out and split the gearbox ( sounds worse than it was) lift the diff out and cut the sleeve off.
I had read on here that some one else who had an auto had no problem and it just slid straight off.
Just be aware that there are 3 different oil seals that you may want to replace. One on the inside of the diff output shaft, a rubber o ring that sits on the end of the sleeve and one that sits around the sleeve in the gearbox.

Thanks i have the seals on hand, this transfer case was replaced 3 years ago and they apparently replaced the sleeve also, so fingers crossed it just slides out.

Glad to know it is possible to split the gearbox without too many issues. I will be tackling this on Monday.

Congrats on getting all that done. I also had to split my gearbox and cut the sleeve off. Not a fun job. I put a little grease on the gearbox side splines when I re-assembled so hopefully it won't happen again.

I also did the clutch, flywheel and all the hydraulics while I was at it as it had all seen better days. Car is running great now.

Turns out it's the gearbox that's gone. Trying to decide what to do now, I may order a rebuilt gearbox and then have a complete new drivetrain...

I would be doing this on my own (I have done many on my own) but any words of encouragement would be appreciated.

Does anyone know if I need to match gearbox part numbers perfectly? Mine is an AG9R-AG9R-7002-FA, there seems to be a lot of various part numbers around, even for a similar year

Would I be correct in assuming the splines have worn off the Diff output shaft in the gearbox?

assuming the ratio's are the same, i would imagine you could get away with just getting whatever box you can and swapping the diff over.

I managed to find one fairly close with 48k on it so it came in last night and I had to remove the sleeve from it as the bell engineering case already has a sleeve installed.
It was stuck on pretty good but by drilling a hole, putting a bolt through and using my slide hammer it came right out so maybe something else for people to try before splitting the transmission.

Brilliant  Jules

Just an yodate, I was able to swap the gearbox, clutch, new bell engineering transfer case and new ball joints for good measure, did it over a day and a half, on the ground.

Biggest tip, use a good quality ratchet strap and an old prop shaft to suspend the gearbox when you go to mate it back up, it also helps to have two old long m12 bolts with the heads cut off that you screw into the block to use as guide pins.

Here are some photos of the failed coupling, I decided to use the bell engineering transfer case even though the existing one was replaced 3 years ago as i liked the new sealing system they built that keeps the sleeve wet.