Hi All,

First time on freel2 but long time member of RRS.

Partner drives FL2 57 plate.

Other day reduced performance comes on when she is driving it. She manages to get it home I check it when I get in.

At 3-3.5kRPM the vehicle dies completely with reduced performance message. I get home that night and check and clean the map and maf. No engine light on or error lights. Only way to restart the vehicle needs a full ignition cycle key out and restart. If you don't do this it just keeps cranking. if you ignition cycle fully it fires up first time like brand new. Idle is stable.

Get hold of a scanner and no DTC to display until AFTER it cuts out which gives us a fuel rail pressure low code but still no engine code. So anyway, we checked all the hoses and intercooler by doing full removal of all of them and the intercooler no leaks or holes whatsoever.

Today replaced the fuel filter with a bosch one inline with the fuel rail pressure too low DTC we found but still the same cutting out.

Any ideas?

What are the fuel rail pressure live values

At idle around 25,500kpa






Then up until it dies at 3.5krpm 180,470kpa

Last time I checked My values were
at idle 430 bar - 43000 kpa
at 2000 revs 810 bar -81000 kpa

Other readings are
Fuel Rail Temperature Sensor voltage
Cold 3.31 Volts
Tick over 3.13 Volts
2000 revs 3 volts

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor voltage
Cold 0.5 Volts
Tick over 1.37 Volts
2000 Revs 2.19 volts

Mine isn't showing fuel rail temp. Possibly a limitation of the software/device.






Fuel rail pressure at 2krpm







Interestingly found this while playing about?







Again only DTC is for fuel rail pressure...











Last edited by Marcmcg on 29th Jan 2023 4:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Having to do a full key removal suggests an issue with the throttle body, as this tries to park the butterfly for a long time after the ignition is shut down. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

I dont know how good this diagnostic is... but I noticed it says throttle is 83% on idle... doesn't change when revving it whatsoever.





No movement between revving it or not on throttle l or relative throttle position however engine load moves.

Anyone have any experience with anything like this?

Does anyone know what maf, map live values should he?

Also there is a sensor in the throttle body does this have any issues? How do I find this sensor?

Thank You

Have you checked the throttle butterfly is closing on shutdown, and opening at startup?
There's no point in looking for nonexistent faults, where there are well known issues to be eliminated first. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Can this be checked without starting the car? Or must the car be fully started?

Thank You

It opens and closes itself with the engine not running if I turn the ignition on and off.

It doesn't shut when the car is off it remains in the open position?? When it's off and stopped its shut down lark it remains open.

Gave it a thorough clean and remove a tonne of crap from the sensor. Anyone know what this does?







Won't let me upload video showing what's up.

Car still dies if you go over 3.5k rpm in one hit but if its progressive you can get it to clip into reduced performance mode and then it will rev upto 3.5k all day and drive so I just popped put for a spin after reassembling. So at least it still drives and we can hear the turbo going etc...

Any other ideas?

If I have chance tomorrow I will check the live values for the throttle position sensor

As suspected the live throttle position sensor value you have should fluctuate. So it's looking like a new position sensor or/and a new throttle body. You could try a reset of the throttle body if you have the code reader to do it with

Hi,

Where would I find the sensor for this? Are they available separately or are they concealed within the gears?

Is the consensus I should put a new throttle body on it?