Hello All

Ive been chasing an odd problem in the FL2 (2007 2.2 Diesel Auto) that was manifesting in idle stalls and cut outs. The only code i was getting was in connection to the turbo actuator. In the process i had blanked my EGR but this introduced no codes... but did fix a hesitation issue.

I put it into the garage due to its lumpy idle and cutting out. The mechanic only checked a few connections, disconnected and reconnected the actuator and that was it. The car seems (touch wood) totally fixed - no hesitation, idle stall or add growl on auto gear change...

HOWEVER - I now have more error codes than when it went in... specifically EGR related - actuator still appears too.

So - my question is - does blanking the EGR throw up codes and if so, why are they only appearing now after some connections were checked? Could it be faulty wiring elsewhere / on actuator thats now connected properly and flagging the codes?

Im not complaining - car was running amazingly well... but I am learning and just trying to figure out the logic!

Thanks!

Andy

Blanking the egr on your age model shouldn’t throw a code. Did the mechanic clear the codes when he’d finished work? If the ignition was switched on with anything disconnected, that would certainly throw codes. Have you tried clearing the codes yourself & seeing if they come back? More info/investigation needed. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks Badger. yeah, there were a batch of codes and the engine warning light was on - that was new when I picked the car up. Car was running great. I cleared all the codes with my Autel. Drove it around some more, again driving better than it ever has, and the old Turbo Actuator code appeared along with these new EGR ones. Specifically these ones

Could it be the turbo vanes sticking.
There is a section in the JLR manual (see stickies) about freeing up the turbo vanes (must do with the actuator arm disconnected) and lubricating the actuator arm. Jules

The EGR will give an error code, but it's only minor and can be ignored.
It'll simply relate to the intake temperature being lower than expected. This is due to the EGR valve opening, but along with an opening EGR the ECM will expect to see an increase in intake temperature, which it won't get with the EGR transfer pipe blocked.
It can be ignored as it doesn't effect the engine.
At some point I'm expecting MOT examinations to include an OBD2 interrogation, in which case it would show up. However as those sorts of US style tests aren't due for many years, blanking the EGR is of no consequence. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

On the last MOT they plugged in an OBD2 dongle, Don't know what info they downloaded

jules wrote:

Could it be the turbo vanes sticking.
There is a section in the JLR manual (see stickies) about freeing up the turbo vanes (must do with the actuator arm disconnected) and lubricating the actuator arm.

Nodge68 wrote:

The EGR will give an error code, but it's only minor and can be ignored.

Your EGR codes are related to actual issues with the valve not moving. The ECM is attempting to index the valve, but the feedback is saying it's not moving. You've got codes for both open and closed, which suggests the EGR valve is sticking in either the open or closed positions.

The turbo codes also suggest a sticking actuator. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

thanks Nodge. So… onto a fix…

EGR - should I replace or map out? (ie does it need to be working correctly in the first place to map out without issue - so would i therefore be better to fir a replacement even though i have it blanked)
Actuator - I guess a replace and a MrMuscle turbo clean / free up of the vanes?

cant find the link to the vane exercising info...

All suggestions welcome

AC