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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue
Front Spring and shock replacement

I have discovered that i have a snapped spring on the front off side, would have know it other than i had a strange creaking noise just after i got the vehicle back from the MOT which then developed into a rattling noise when ever i went over a bump.
Anyway i discovered a piece of snapped of broken spring sitting in the cup of the shocker, so i have purchased new springs shockers and top mounts, i need to get a tie rod splitter but not sure what size i need. I have a big fork type splitter but want to get the threaded type one, any ideas what size ill need.
Also i assume there is a certain way these springs go on, i dont want to put them on upside down or is there any visual links to look at on here to help me replace them

Post #428677 10th Jan 2023 10:27 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1417

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

There are a couple or three ways of doing this

I used a wishbone extractor and a hammer to split the bottom ball joint, ideally have a strong helper . The spring top is slightly smaller and flatter than the bottom, although not much in the difference really.

Lots of how to you tube movies

Post #428681 11th Jan 2023 7:37 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

ok thanks

Post #428682 11th Jan 2023 10:13 am
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NoDo$h



Member Since: 27 May 2008
Location: fings go booooom.
Posts: 490

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Santorini Black

Having done this job last year, I can heartily recommend you get one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325455421355




Loosen the retaining nut on the wishbone balljoint a couple of turns, where it passes through the steering knuckle. Couple of sharp taps with your percussive engineering implement of choice, then remove nut completely. Pop the black arm on this lever over the wishbone, put the blue end against a suitable lever point on the underside of the wishbone (obvious when you're under the car), push down hard, job done.

Also makes refitting a darn sight easier!

You will need the vehicle to be a decent height in the air to get the leverage. I had mine on the last hole on some sturdy axle stands and was able to do it without running out of clearance. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

Post #428685 11th Jan 2023 11:17 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

ok ill look at that.
I come across this video

Post #428688 11th Jan 2023 12:15 pm
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

After obtaining the correct tools to start this job, the Freelander was up for putting up a fight at every stage.

Afetr putting the Freelander onto sleepers to raise her up, i take off the wheel, brake calipers start to undo the tie rod end nut, which only comes so far up before becoming really tight and then the whole thing starts to turn. Tried the allen socket to stop it rotating whilst turning the nut, the allen socket just rounds off. So took grinder to that then thats off. next the drop link rods same there, allen socket rounds off so nut is just turning with the rest of the joint. bottom one comes off ok so i thought the rest of the drop link will come off with the shocker.

Next i tackle the ball joint nut, that comes nice and easy however my ball joint splitter is too small, it only has i think a 20mm fork and the jaws are 50mm maximum so that wont work. Looking at that video i read the comments that you need a splitter with forks 27mm, , ive tried looking on ebay but most are 20 mm forks any ideas where i can find one that fits the freelander?

Next job to tackle was the 15mm bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the shocker. Wire wheeled as much of the rust , lots of penetrating oil , then heat wilth my blow torch let it cool with penetrating iol sprayed onto it, heat again penetrating oil, then on with the 15mm socket, not budging, more heat oil repeat, big extension bar and things start to move. I can feel the threaded end turning so im also slowly loosening and tightening spraying oil onto the threats, all going well until "SNAP"
At this point im putting the thing back together hoping the knuckle doesnt slide up the shocker when i lower her down but it stayed in situ.

Been all over today to find a bigger ball joint splitter, but three places let me down.
Any ideas where i can find one and any ideas how to get this snapped bolt out. I thiunk i can weld a nut onto the threaded end, but i know the bold isnt going to come all of the way out. I can still see the shaft of the bolt through the cut out in the knuckle so im hoping that i can wind it out so far with the nut until the plain shaft of the bolt hits the threads, then grind the nut off and try to wind it back through with molegrips through the cut out.

Any advice appreciated

DBD

Post #429367 28th Jan 2023 9:48 pm
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2621

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Jobs like that I almost wish I'd paid someone else to do! (Almost, I'd still do it myself)
You'll get there and have great satisfaction when you do 👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #429380 29th Jan 2023 10:43 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

yes i wish i had paid someone else to do it, but if i have the gear i like to at least try myself. At the age of 52 this is the first tie rod and ball joint i have attempted to do. I wouldnt mind if i had a garage to do it in but i dont and trying to work against the weather especially this time of year and in Scotland isnt easy, but yes you are right i will get there.

Post #429381 29th Jan 2023 10:53 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

anybody with any ideas about that ball joint splitter

Post #429384 29th Jan 2023 11:28 am
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2621

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Ball joint might seperate with decent blows simultaneously on bot sides with a couple of hammers?
Having had multiple minis over the years separating ball joints was a regular pass time, not always having a ball joint splitter to hand.
If you can get an assistant to apply downward leverage on the wishbone while you do so it will have a good chance of success.
With the drop links I think I'd just cut them off with the angry grinder and replace with new rather than faffing about .
Broken bolt in the hub is a pain. Get it out and assess I assume it's broken here:



Is the thread of the broken part level with the hub or protruding from it? In which case a washer and nut welded on might be possible to extract it?
Alternatively drill the remaining bolt out, go up a size and use a longer bolt and nut to clamp the strut in the hub? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #429385 29th Jan 2023 11:32 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

No the bolt has snapped on the other side neared the head of the bolt. Ill have new drop links , the bottom bolt came out ok so the rest will come off with the old shocker.

I think what i will do is heat the strut near to where it has snapped off , may not have muchluck as i only have a blow torch so thats not going to be hot enough. The thread is just slightly in by a couple of threats, but i will try with my thin nosed pliers in where the splitt is in the hub to get a grip on the shaft of the bolt

Post #429387 29th Jan 2023 12:06 pm
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

Bit of an update, i got the snapped bolt out, took me about 4 and half hours of manipulation but i got it.

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I did manage to find a ball joint splitter

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to which it came out pretty easy. Next was the drive shaft to pry out, that was a fight too, it got so far out then tightened up. I tried to draw it back in using the long 13mm bolt , it was that tight that bolt snapped too, luckily it snapped off leaving some of the thread exposed so i was able to wind the rest out.

A hammer and a round piece of bar still that drive shaft wasnt for moving, so it was war

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I used the big washer and an impact socket with the air chisel and that drive shaft flew out of there


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I realised the seized part must have been the plain shank of the bolt,

Click image to enlarge

Post #429754 6th Feb 2023 10:37 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

Click image to enlarge



So now with the knuckle off, its time to retreat to the shed to start to get this bolt removed. My thearoy was confirmed right when i cut the bolt in between the split in the knuckle

Click image to enlarge


Now you see why it moved at bit at first then snapped, it was swollen with rust so no matter which way i screwed the bolt it would have snapped when this swollen part hit the internal threads.

So i cut the bolt near the plain part of the bolt and i managed to get some thin nose molegrips in and the threads started to move, up until it hit the seized part, so another cut, turn with mole grips sometimes it needed a bit of heat to free the threads. and so it was a long drawn out process but i eventually got the threaded section out.

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Once that was out i was able to put a punch though and knock the rest of the broken bolt out


Click image to enlarge


I ran a tap down the threads and bought some new bolts to be fitted, Its an M12 thread by the way

Post #429757 6th Feb 2023 10:48 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 68

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

Next job was to remove the strut, Wipers off plastic cowl removed just to access those 13mm bolts and the strut was removed



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As i was using the original top plates i marked up where the notches on the new top mount were supposed to go, make life easier realigning the new ones.

Spring compressors at the ready old ones top plate removed new top mounts ( Fit Mondeo apparently) installed although not a tight fit like the old ones, New springs fitted but the blooming notches on the top mounts moved round so they were in line with each other and not the 8 degress apart so had to compress springs again and readjust.

So as of last night the new mounts are bolted in situ but not torqued up,

Click image to enlarge


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i did try to get the knuckle onto the strut last night but it was getting late and the blooming thing was tightening up half way so i need something to wedge the knuckle open whilst i slide it on

Post #429758 6th Feb 2023 11:04 am
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ozjeff62



Member Since: 28 May 2018
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 494

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Ipanema Sand

Dear God, the corrosion! Glad to live where there's no salt on the road and it's usually dry.

Well done. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Post #429759 6th Feb 2023 11:18 am
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