Keith,

If the brake pedal switch or the clutch pedal switch aren't working properly then the ECU may inhibit starting


Do the following


1) open door and enter vehicle

2) dock the key (do not step on the brake or the clutch)

3) count to three

4) press the start button (Hold it for 2 seconds, the Radio should turn on, do not step on brake or clutch)

5) count to three

6) step on the brake and the clutch and hold it down

7) count to three

8. press the start button

9) the engine should start


Us the procedure above to start your FREEL2 and let us know do you have a problem at step 4 or step 8 or if you always follow these steps does the problem go away.

For my LR2 if I dock the key with my Thumb and press the start with my Index Finger and press the brake (all three within 1/2 of a second then I can get a no start condition)

For reference here are the

IGNITION MODES

Doing the procedure shown above will get you to

MODE 0
Then wait three seconds
MODE I immediately followed byMode II
Then wait three seconds
MODE III

Click image to enlarge

Hello folks. The Freelander has behaved itself today so no chance to try the steering lock solution, nor your suggested procedure p-gill, but I've passed it on to my daughter. Worms, you gave us all a good laugh with your key fob hokey-cokey tale. I'll report back with further developments.

Hi All

I am suffering similar issues 2007 SE 105,000 on the clock, was very intermittent, now more consistent, getting by with the Hokey Cokey method! Of course it doesn't mis behave when it gets near a workshop or auto electrics man!

Also only seen the glow plugs work 3 times in 6 years, it starts without but feels like it definitely needed them, on the cold mornings - stinking fumes and rough running just after start.

More recently seems worse - thinking may be due to water moisture, it was at its most trouble free in the middle of our dry summer. Problem started last March.


Question for Ian Metro where exactly is the Main CJB Earthing Point - G3D138.

Cheers
Andy

Happy new year all. Just to keep you updated, the car is back in the workshop today, as the problem persists. Neither of the suggested starting procedures works-the car is either completely dead or it works fine, no half measures. Hopefully it will co-operate today and give the garage something to try and track down.

FLSpanner wrote:

Hi All

I am suffering similar issues 2007 SE 105,000 on the clock, was very intermittent, now more consistent, getting by with the Hokey Cokey method! Of course it doesn't mis behave when it gets near a workshop or auto electrics man!

Also only seen the glow plugs work 3 times in 6 years, it starts without but feels like it definitely needed them, on the cold mornings - stinking fumes and rough running just after start.

More recently seems worse - thinking may be due to water moisture, it was at its most trouble free in the middle of our dry summer. Problem started last March.


Question for Ian Metro where exactly is the Main CJB Earthing Point - G3D138.

Cheers


Andy

Many thanks for the rapid response, I will have look this weekend

Sorry about the delay in reporting back but all good now. The garage had the car back in and replaced the slot thingy you put the fob into. They didn't ask for any payment on collection, just saying they would ring. That was a fortnight ago and having heard nothing we have to assume they've met the cost themselves. I suspect the initial bill was enough to cover the cost of both parts they replaced, with a bit left over to go towards the labour . So, can't really criticise the garage really-they made a mistake and put it right. It probably worked out more expensive than if they'd diagnosed the problem correctly first time but in the end 2 parts have been replaced for the price of 1 so we're not complaining.

Thanks for posting outcome.

You seem to have a good honest garage, well worth keeping.

Happy Starting! FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)