Any Idea guys ? Any common issues ?
Note I have no DTCs .

There is a known issue with warm starts if you leave the key in the slot with the engine off, for example while getting fuel.

It's not that , even if you switch it off , remove the key immediately, put it back in and start , it wont start when hot .

With a previous car I had that problem. It was the engine was too hot, turned out it was the thermostat in the radiator was not working. The car didn't know it was too hot.

The fuel vaporises before it gets into the cylinders. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Quote:

With a previous car I had that problem.

Yes, takes me back to a couple of old 3.5 V8s where the rubber diaphragms in the twin SU carbs would go soft in hot climates and not lift enough to let the air in for starting. With long arms and a screwdriver you could just about lift the carburettor piston with one hand, while turning the ignition key with the other through the driver's window. Fun days!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Lightwater , i will investigate the engine temperature.
Thanks a lot guys

3.2 common problems are here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html


The Thermostat is here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html


The fuel pressure sending unit could cause a hot restart issue if it is stuck and it is telling the ECU that you have fuel pressure when you don't

Volvo uses this Engine as well

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...;start=110


Also the Crankshaft position sender is located under the Brake Booster Vacuum pump and the pumps are know to leak.

Do you have a leak?


Good luck

Paul

Mine does it occasionally, never found out what courses it, would like to now if you sort it out. Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Ok so i confirmed an overheating issue , the coolant temp reached more than 122 C on scan tool and then coolant started escaping the cap coz it over pressurised.
Ill grab a headgasket test tool to confirm the head gasket is not leaking combustion gasses into the coolant system which means a bad engine , before spending any money , if the engine is okay ill start the normal over heating diagnosis.
I noticed on my scan tool there were two different Engine coolant temperature readings , one of them is about 10C less , any explanation for that ? Attached are the photos.

The manual lists only one coolant temp sensor, maybe try a different scantool? I don't recall seeing two of them using my Autel AP200.

It looks like the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor connector should be easily accessible from the top of the engine, maybe try unplugging it and see which indication changes?


But either way, both 122*C and 107*C are too hot for idle or driving around town. I might expect 105*C+ when towing in mountains in the summer, but I would slow down to prevent it from getting any hotter than 105*. I've had multiple coolant leaks after exceeding 105*C so I don't do that anymore.

I wouldn't be too worried about high temp indications after engine shutdown, since the coolant is not circulating. At idle it should hang out around 90*C. Much colder than 88*C = thermostat failed open. Warmer than 95*C I'd consider that a problem at idle too.

Yeah disconnecting the the sensor sounds good , ill do it while waiting for the head gasket test kit , is the engine turned ok im going for the thermostat and full coolant flush , since the temp sensor is part of it .

We have been in very remote outback Australia in mid 40°C & left the car idling with air conditioning running while we walked around sightseeing. I could hear both radiator fans going flat out but there was no overheating issues of any description.

Click image to enlarge

I wouldn't expect overheating at idle, ever.

Even at 40*C OAT, there's still a 50*C temp differential between the coolant and the air... that's enough to drive a lot of heat energy downhill to the air.

But be aware, your coolant temp gauge on the dash is probably an "Idiot Gauge", not an actual gauge.

Most likely it will show low during the warmup phase, and then it sit motionless in the middle between about 85*C and 113*C IIRC. That's a wide range of temps, and IMO anything over 105*C is too hot and will stress your coolant system... if the gauge actually moves above it's normal position, you're already way too hot.

I use an OBDII gauge to monitor actual coolant temp while towing or driving in severe conditions, including mountains,

Last edited by merlinj79 on 16th Dec 2022 11:01 pm. Edited 1 time in total

p_gill wrote:

The Thermostat is here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html