Hi, I have a problem with my fl 2 2.2. I washed engine with the power washer. The car starts but goes out immediately. The computer shows no errors, maybe some advice.

Obviously you got something wet if you have a compressor and air gun try and blow all the electrical connections dry or if you have a powerful leaf blower use that, leave the bonnet open and in this heat it should dry out if not then you may have damaged something ???? however at a car sales showroom near me I always see the valeter jet washing engines and I asked if he ever had a non stater he said never???

Good luck. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

I've been drying it for two weeks and nothing. Where and how to look for an error?

I'd have to suggest that power washing an engine which is covered in electronic sensors isn't a smart move.
You'll need to unplug every sensor, and clean and dry the connectors. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

Never use a power washer on the engine, EVER. Give it time to dry I guess and check all visible connections.
YouTube has a ton of vids with differing suggestions that work well.

Any fault codes?

No faults code. All conectors cleared.

Have you checked the air filter and housing to see if it full off water??? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

If she starts then dies then the basics are OK. You either have got insufficient fuel (or water in the fuel) or you have insufficient air.
Then again does she start on the crank position sensor and then go to camshaft position (or both)?
So check cam and crank sensors
Disconnect air flap from the pipe work the one at the front of the engine - not needed is a pain in the backside and causes air starvation when it goes wrong.
Finally go through the fuel system to get rid of any water.

You can jet wash the engine bay - if and only if you know exactly what you are pointing the water at Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Hello, well having read this issue tonight and not being negative I think the pressure washing has done irreparable damage to many components within the engine compartment and whatever the issue is somewhere is one of those needles in a haystack.
Firstly any pressure washing of any engine compartment is a no no, unless extreme pre water ingress to any of electrical components can be carried out, extreme time taken but still not to be done.
Just imagine the water pressure and cold temperature or even heat!
You say the engine starts then cuts out, maybe water is causing a short on the cam,crank,egr,high pressure pump,fuse box areas which are many.

If it were me I would disassemble every plug connector including pins from every connector you can see, check for water ingress and if you can? Individually dry out every pin if at all possible.
Painstaking work indeed, as we giving this advice doesn’t know where and how much water pressure in any area has been carried out.

Today I replenished the brake fluid having replaced both front flexi brake hoses, plus rear brake pad’s noticing on the ABS pump a sticker saying “No pressure washing”. As I had removed the plastic panel and wiper arms below the screen due to a niggle of a rattle which was the wiper motor cable against the removable panel from the egr valve I replaced last year. I’m sorry that I cannot offer any more advice or help but I do think it’s irreparable damage to many sensitive engine components fitted.

Unless something has been damaged or disconnected, put it in the sun. Get a decent blow dryer or if you are skilled enough a heat gun and basically apply heat but don't burn or melt components.

Safest bet, leave it in the sun for a few days to dry out any remaining moisture. If you manage to get it running then, let the engine warm up to temperature. Nothing to lose and patience is virtuous.

Over 3 days I wanted to test my fridge for the car. It was winter, nevertheless I had 3 oil heaters going 24/7 in a bedroom maintained at 35°C. Heat up your garage. Some old blankets or cardboard boxes or any thing piled up against the garage door to reduce heat loss will help. Just need to create layers of air barriers around the car. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Disconnect the battery. Then unplug & replug every connector you can find. While at do all the fuses. I have had a fuse that was ok but there was enough corrosion to be an issue.

Start with the basics & work up. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Go with what Lightwater has suggested. There is going to be a connector or fuse that has got some corrosion on a pin or pins that is causing enough resistance to stop the engine from running. Just removing a fuse and replacing it or unplugging and replugging a connector should break the corrosion and get decent metal to metal connectivity.
Good luck!

exhaust gas recirculation error -100% what this means?