This is now fixed - was a faulty BCM Module (body control module)

I have a passenger door open warning that suddenly appeared just a couple of days after getting the car MOT'd - it passed.

For my first attempt to fix this I replaced the door actuator with a new one. However the fault remains and prevents me from being able to lock the car with the fob. The horn beeps when I try to lock the car with the fob.

I tried swapping the door ecu with the drivers door ECU and this made no difference, the fault on the passenger door remained.

I've been through all the wiring and can't see any obvious breaks, it all appears OK. Tearing my hair out now trying to figure out where the fault lies, praying it's not the BCM/CJB but it's looking like that might be the problem. I have had the battery off several time today and this has not made any difference.

I've traced the signal all the way to the BCM and removed and opened up the BCM. When measuring the door ajar input pin for the passenger door on the BCM PCB the signal goes high and low as the door is opened and closed, so it does appear that the door actuator is not the cause. But reading the BCM data stream for the door and the signal remains OFF = Door Open. In comparison Drivers door goes OFF/ON as you open and close the drivers door. A visible inspection of the BCM circuit boards hasn't revealed anything odd looking, so I'm guessing I need a new BCM.

Is the BCM coded to the vehicle, I believe it is? Anyone have any ideas where I could get my existing BCM cloned to another, I'm in Berkshire.

Last edited by Ingenious-al on 26th May 2022 11:41 am. Edited 1 time in total

This happened to me. In the end I had to adjust the striker on the door frame. It was set to far in so the lock was not quite closing properly. Simply loosen the screws and move the striker out a milimetre or so, then retighten.

No, it isn't this, wish it was that simple. The door actuator is grounding the door closed circuit as it should when the door is closed, but for some reason the BCM/CJB isn't registering the grounded signal wire.

Have you tried re-seating all the plugs on the CJB?(BCM). 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Yes, had to do all that to remove it/open it up and the signal appears to be reaching the pins on the PCB correctly.

Ingenious-al wrote:

I have a passenger door open warning that suddenly appeared just a couple of days after getting the car MOT'd - it passed.

For my first attempt to fix this I replaced the door actuator with a new one. However the fault remains and prevents me from being able to lock the car with the fob. The horn beeps when I try to lock the car with the fob.

I tried swapping the door ecu with the drivers door ECU and this made no difference, the fault on the passenger door remained.

I've been through all the wiring and can't see any obvious breaks, it all appears OK. Tearing my hair out now trying to figure out where the fault lies, praying it's not the BCM/CJB but it's looking like that might be the problem. I have had the battery off several time today and this has not made any difference.

I've traced the signal all the way to the BCM and removed and opened up the BCM. When measuring the door ajar input pin for the passenger door on the BCM PCB the signal goes high and low as the door is opened and closed, so it does appear that the door actuator is not the cause. But reading the BCM data stream for the door and the signal remains OFF = Door Open. In comparison Drivers door goes OFF/ON as you open and close the drivers door. A visible inspection of the BCM circuit boards hasn't revealed anything odd looking, so I'm guessing I need a new BCM.

Is the BCM coded to the vehicle, I believe it is? Anyone have any ideas where I could get my existing BCM cloned to another, I'm in Berkshire.

Yes, I am thinking it's the CJB/BCM. So now I just need to find somewhere where I can transfer the vehicle data from the one in the car to a replacement unit from a breakers. I believe it can be done, but haven't found anywhere that can do it, which has me worried that perhaps it can't be done and I will need a brand new CJB/BCM ££££££££ just for a door switch issue that would have been so easy to resolve on an older car.

It's a complete PITA at the moment being unable to lock the car from the outside, no alarm, no folding mirrors, having to turn off all the courtesy lights. I can't live with it like this.

Digging deeper plenty of places that can clone my old BCM into another used BCM. It's the same Delphi BCM as used by many fords and plenty of companies can do them.

This is now fixed. Here is what I did to resolve in case someone else has a similar issue.

The fault was - passenger door open indicator on the dash, unable to centrally lock car the horn would just beep.

It was NOT the door actuator. Traced signal back to the CJB (Central Junction Box) / BCM (Body Control Module) that is also the fuse box in the passenger footwell under the glove box. Input pins to this were going low when the door was opened. Determined therefore that the BCM must be faulty.

Got a BCM with the same part number from a breakers yard (£35) and sent this and my original BCM off to ebay seller scooby_d00! www.ebay.co.uk/usr/scooby_d00! He cloned the contents of the original BCM to the replacement BCM (£99) and returned it to me by special delivery, in all just 36 hours from me sending my BCM off to getting it back. There are other ebay sellers that can do them, but this guy was incredibly helpful.

Fitted the replacement BCM and everything is back to normal.

So lessons learnt: Your old BCM can be cloned to a similar replacement BCM, you don't have to go to a dealer and you don't have to start with a virgin BCM.

Don't assume that a door open warning fault must be the actuator in the door. I wasted a couple of hours swapping out a perfectly good door actuator.

It is quite easy to pry out the connector in the car body A post/front inner wing to access the wires from the door. Open the door and in the gap between the door and car body, just below the upper door hinge, there is a rubber covered section of the loom. The top of ths goes into the A post/inner wing via a couple of connectors under the rubber cover. There is a hidden tab at the top of the connector that secures it to the post/wing under the rubber boot. Push down on the top of the rubber boot and the connector comes out of the post/wing from the top. You can then access the wires in the connectors from the door to measure the signals to/from the door. I used the wiring diagram in the haynes manual and this told me that the door open signal on the passenger side is a GN/VT wire - green with a violet stripe. By measuring the voltage at this point I could see that with the door closed it was around 10 volts and when the door was open it was 0V (connected to ground) this will tell you whether the door actuator is sending the right signal. On the drivers side the wire in the A post connector is a White wire. Once I determined that the signal was correct coming from the door I then traced the wire to the BCM where it is on the brown coloured multi way connector and was able to see that the signal was getting to the BCM, therefore I concluded there was an issue with the BCM.

I hope this helps if anyone else has a similar issue. I would really urge anyone with a "door open" indication to check the signal at the A post/inner wing connector with a voltmeter before stripping down the door. It takes just a few seconds to get that connector out of the A post/wing and it's then easy to measure the voltage at that point before you start stripping the door.

Last edited by Ingenious-al on 26th May 2022 4:09 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Did you remove the A column trim panel to access wires?

If not, lift up the Air Bag logo & unscrew the bolt. Same with B & C column trim panels, a bolt is under the Air Bag logo. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Perhaps I didn't describe it sufficiently well but the connection is in the gap between the door and door frame just below the upper door hinge, completely accessible without taking anything apart. Just open the door and look just below where the upper hinge is attached the A post/inner wing.

Thanks for write up of your success.

Maybe it is worth you changing the title of the thread to reflect the fault and outcome as this will help many in the future. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)