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Home > My Freelander 2 > New FL2 owner and first Land Rover Owned!
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zakinak



Member Since: 11 Feb 2022
Location: London
Posts: 3

2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Indus Silver
New FL2 owner and first Land Rover Owned!

Just dropping in to say hi!

Picked up an i6 with 95k miles which I'm super pleased with!

Post #418386 11th Feb 2022 3:26 pm
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trw999



Member Since: 04 Oct 2021
Location: Essex/Herts Border
Posts: 91

England 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Excellent choice! It took me a little while to find my i6 but it was definitely worth it.

I'm sure you will enjoy it and the smoothness of the 6 cylinder engine. A rare beast in the FL2 in the UK.

Do let us see some photos, please.

Tim Tim

Freelander 2 HSE i6 Stornoway Grey with Alpaca & Tundra interior
Driven many miles in:
2 FL2s
1 Range Rover P38
4 Range Rover Classics
Many military LWB & 1/2 ton Lightweight Series IIA & III

Post #418391 11th Feb 2022 4:00 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4515

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Welcome to the forum.
There are people on here with an amazing wealth of knowledge and experience of looking after FL2s. I learn something nearly every time I log in. Thumbs Up Jules

Post #418405 11th Feb 2022 7:37 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4702

Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

Good to see one running on proper fuel. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Post #419186 4th Mar 2022 10:54 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

The inline six cylinder engine was built in the UK and also used by Volvo.

There are some specific areas that should be maintained proactively so that your experience will continue to be positive.

I posted this information on a Volvo forum but I will share it here as well. (full disclosure I own a 2008 LR2 3.2 and a 2010 S80 3.2 both have the same engine as yours)


3.2 Engine Specific information


This is the Thermostat from my 2010 S80, it was 8 years old
(Every 3.2 owner should treat the Thermostat as a maintenance item and replace it every 10 years or sooner)

Click image to enlarge


The place where the Thermostat lives and the small hose next to the Thermostat
Click image to enlarge


Small Hose next to the thermostat, the plastic fails and it can leak coolant
(This hose and O-ring should be replaced at the same time as the Thermostat)

Click image to enlarge


Fuel Rail Fuel Pressure Sending unit
(This is a know failure and I plan to replace mine proactively)

Click image to enlarge



This is the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger.
The failure can be a broken Anti Drain Valve which will affect oil pressure.
Or if the heat exchanger fails Oil and Coolant will mix just like a head gasket failure





Motor Mount - Old vs New
(When the mount collapses as shown it should be replaced)

Click image to enlarge


Brake Booster Vacuum Pump - The O-rings can leak oil and the oil can interferer with sensitive electronics below the pump. (If yours is leaking it is time for a rebuild)
Click image to enlarge


Volvo rebuild kit for the Vacuum pump - the kit is more expensive but worth the cost
Click image to enlarge


This is the Crankshaft sending unit
(It is sensitive bit of electronics and it is below the vacuum pump, see above)

Click image to enlarge



This is the One Way Clutch (Alternator Overdrive Pulley) and it is a know failure point.
If it fails and it isn't changed it will likely loosen the bolt for the drive pulley and the alternator will stop working.



This is the other one way clutch overdrive pulley. This is for the serpentine belt.
Checking the function of this pulley is extremely easy.
Engine off....Just try to move the serpentine belt at the AC compressor.
It it moves easily in one direction the pulley is fine.
If not then replace the pulley.

Click image to enlarge


This is the location for the PCV. If the channel in the lower right is filled with oil then the PCV has failed and it need to be replaced.


This is the PCV and the bolts that hold it in place


MAP sensor location, grommet and removal
(the sensor are fairly reliable but some have experienced failures)




Things to note in this picture.
1. Red Sharpie to make sure that the bracket went back to the same location
2. Over drive pulley (the grey part)
3. Main Engine ground (this is for my LR2 and the cable is marked with LAND ROVER)

Click image to enlarge




Intake camshaft Variable valve lifter
Click image to enlarge

Solenoid that switches from low opening to high opening
(Some Failures of the Solenoid have been observed with strange engine behavior)

Click image to enlarge


Torque curve of the engine depending on the intake manifold runner length
Click image to enlarge


High lift and low lift regions for the intake camshaft
Click image to enlarge


Variable Valve Timing (High lift and Low Lift)
Click image to enlarge


Take care

Paul

Post #419199 4th Mar 2022 8:28 pm
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liamthedude



Member Since: 11 Jul 2021
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 9

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Barolo Black

Hi everyone

I'm new to the JLR brand as of last Friday. I picked up a 57 plate 2.2 diesel Auto with 121,000 miles with some very minor exterior damage for £3000, which I think was very reasonable. I would like to ask some questions to those who know.

First of all, does a 57 plate auto have a DPF?
Secondly, I only have 1 key, if I want a 2nd, can it only be done through LR?

Thanks,
Liam

Post #419442 11th Mar 2022 11:57 pm
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Boxbrownie



Member Since: 17 Mar 2019
Location: Looe
Posts: 2053

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

p_gill wrote:
The inline six cylinder engine was built in the UK and also used by Volvo.

There are some specific areas that should be maintained proactively so that your experience will continue to be positive.

I posted this information on a Volvo forum but I will share it here as well. (full disclosure I own a 2008 LR2 3.2 and a 2010 S80 3.2 both have the same engine as yours)


3.2 Engine Specific information


This is the Thermostat from my 2010 S80, it was 8 years old
(Every 3.2 owner should treat the Thermostat as a maintenance item and replace it every 10 years or sooner)

Click image to enlarge


The place where the Thermostat lives and the small hose next to the Thermostat
Click image to enlarge


Small Hose next to the thermostat, the plastic fails and it can leak coolant
(This hose and O-ring should be replaced at the same time as the Thermostat)

Click image to enlarge


Fuel Rail Fuel Pressure Sending unit
(This is a know failure and I plan to replace mine proactively)

Click image to enlarge



This is the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger.
The failure can be a broken Anti Drain Valve which will affect oil pressure.
Or if the heat exchanger fails Oil and Coolant will mix just like a head gasket failure





Motor Mount - Old vs New
(When the mount collapses as shown it should be replaced)

Click image to enlarge


Brake Booster Vacuum Pump - The O-rings can leak oil and the oil can interferer with sensitive electronics below the pump. (If yours is leaking it is time for a rebuild)
Click image to enlarge


Volvo rebuild kit for the Vacuum pump - the kit is more expensive but worth the cost
Click image to enlarge


This is the Crankshaft sending unit
(It is sensitive bit of electronics and it is below the vacuum pump, see above)

Click image to enlarge



This is the One Way Clutch (Alternator Overdrive Pulley) and it is a know failure point.
If it fails and it isn't changed it will likely loosen the bolt for the drive pulley and the alternator will stop working.



This is the other one way clutch overdrive pulley. This is for the serpentine belt.
Checking the function of this pulley is extremely easy.
Engine off....Just try to move the serpentine belt at the AC compressor.
It it moves easily in one direction the pulley is fine.
If not then replace the pulley.

Click image to enlarge


This is the location for the PCV. If the channel in the lower right is filled with oil then the PCV has failed and it need to be replaced.


This is the PCV and the bolts that hold it in place


MAP sensor location, grommet and removal
(the sensor are fairly reliable but some have experienced failures)




Things to note in this picture.
1. Red Sharpie to make sure that the bracket went back to the same location
2. Over drive pulley (the grey part)
3. Main Engine ground (this is for my LR2 and the cable is marked with LAND ROVER)

Click image to enlarge




Intake camshaft Variable valve lifter
Click image to enlarge

Solenoid that switches from low opening to high opening
(Some Failures of the Solenoid have been observed with strange engine behavior)

Click image to enlarge


Torque curve of the engine depending on the intake manifold runner length
Click image to enlarge


High lift and low lift regions for the intake camshaft
Click image to enlarge


Variable Valve Timing (High lift and Low Lift)
Click image to enlarge


Take care

Paul


That’s done it, you’ve frightened him off now Rolling with laughter Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Post #419492 13th Mar 2022 6:10 pm
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