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| Nbuuifx Member Since: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 172   
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I do apologise, looking through the pictures that I did take, they aren't the best for a guide. A very brief guide would be... Wash the area round the wheels and rinse thoroughly to give a clean work area. (Good idea to do this somewhere different to the spot where you will be working!) Try to get a house up behind the arch liner. . Jack the entire rear end using the centre jacking point and lower onto axle stands. Remove the wheel Remove the arch liner (fairly obvious fixings to do this) Remove the rear droplinks (an impact wrench whizzed the bottom ones out) if that fails then use a spanner combined with a 5mm Allen key it middle to stop the centre spinning. I think the old ones were 15mm nuts but the new ones were 17mm. So it depends on what you have fitted. You only need to undo the bottom nut as you should replace the droplinks whilst you are there and the old one can stay attached to the strut. Undo the hub pinch bolt on the rear of the hub. 15mm socket on a 2ft breaker bar did the job. (LR000073 for replacement pinch bolts. The old ones looked to have stretched, so I would recommend replacing - couple of quid each from LR. Undo the rear arm on the hub (lower rear nut) hold the bolt end in the middle of the underside of the hub with a 19mm (although 18mm fitted better on one side!) Spanner and then undo the nut with a 21mm socket on a breaker bar. Remove the caliper using the two 15mm bolts on the back and hang the assembly out of the way using a bungee. Take the abs wire and the brake Flexi out of the brackets on the strut. See if you can undo the torx bolts holding the brackets on - I couldn't so left them in and drilled them out later in the garage - I replaced with a short M6 bolt when mounting then on the new struts. I put a couple of sleepers under the disc to stop it dropping too low. Use an old screwdriver, or small pry bar and hammer it into the gap where the pinch bolt goes through. This will separate it out a little. To allow the strut to come out. Now you have two choices, either leave the strut attached at the top and hit the hub down with a lump of wood and a hammer. Or undo the nuts in the boot and drop the whole assembly down, then twist and wriggle the strut up and out. Whilst doing either be careful not to pull the driveshaft out of the diff. I did a bit of a mixture, I found the second method probably better, but was tight on space on the passenger side due to the fuel cap locking mechanism. Once the strut, is it take pictures of the exact alignment of the spring etc. and note the angle of the top mount. If you bought complete new struts you can just replace the new ones straight in. If like me you bought the strut without springs etc. Then strip the old one down, using spring compressors to compress the spring. Then undo the 18mm nut in the top. An impact wrench made light work of this again. Take out the top mount, the rubber prices, the first cover and the bump stop. Transfer everything to the new strut (I found I needed new anti squeak rubber pads - about a pound each from LR) Torque the top nut down (my new nuts were 19mm instead of 18mm) Slowly release the spring clamps, ensuring they seat correctly in the rubber blocks. Reinstall it by reversing how you took it off Be careful to keep the abs wire in the correct side of the strut. Torque all the nuts and bolts correctly. Install new droplinks, replace the brackets. Replace everything else. I also did the brakes whilst I was there. If you aren't doing the brakes, then you could just Jack one side up. I took two days to do the entire job, but that including wire brushing the inner arches and rust treating, then painting. If you are just doing the struts, then a day should be plenty. Nothing was majorly difficult to remove and ours are 12 year old struts with 175k miles on them. One was completely useless, the other was slow. The ride has been transformed. Cost wise... £110 for a pair of KYB shocks delivered. £7.50 for the pinch bolts and anti squeak rubbers from LR main dealer. £16 for a pair of droplinks Brakes were about £150 for discs, pads, shoes, and calipers. I dropped on a couple of calipers in separate purchases - so got a couple of bargains there. Brakes went easily enough, one of the pivots was completely seized, the other was completely free. Oddly the free one didn't seem to be doing much as the shoes were backed off too far. No wonder it barely worked! I freed the seized one up with a hammer and a vice. It is now easy to move. I oiled the pivot and put a bit of copper slip on the faces so hopefully to it won't seize up again. |
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23rd Jan 2022 5:35 pm |
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| jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 4571 
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23rd Jan 2022 7:46 pm |
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Thanks for the summary - a future job for me one day
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